Toro Greensmaster & Greensmaster Flex Resources
I know several of us here run Toro Greensmaster reel mowers. This post is a resource to help you locate relevant manuals and documentation for your Toro greensmower.
Go here and enter your mower's model number (found on the serial number plate attached to the frame). The search result should list the serial number ranges for that particular model number. Make the appropriate selection to access things like the PDF Operator's Manual and Parts Catalog for your particular mower.
Go here to download the Factory Service Manual for your mower. This detailed manual will provide basically everything you need to know about taking care of your Greensmaster.
Current production Greensmasters have Subaru engines, but most that are currently on the secondary market are equipped with the Kawasaki FE120 Engine . The Service Manual for the Kawasaki engine can be found here (or several other places online with a quick Google search). Most common replacement parts for the Kawasaki engine are readily available from online parts warehouses like Jack's Small Engines.
If you are just looking for general Greensmaster Specifications (like HOC range, clip rate, etc.), you can find those here:
If you are looking for part numbers for Greensmaster Accessories (like bedknife, reel and roller options), you can find those here:
Go here to learn more about increasing the HOC range of a Greensmaster Flex.
For common aftermarket replacement parts and accessories, I would suggest R&R Products. They make it pretty easy to find parts by selecting the make/model of your mower, then viewing the various parts schematics.
For uncommon replacement parts and accessories, you will need to contact the Toro Golf Equipment dealer that services your region. Note that Toro dealers who sell residential/commercial mowers do not have access to parts for Toro greensmowers and other "golfcourse equipment".
GSA Price List for some Toro parts - courtesy of @FedDawg555
Go here and enter your mower's model number (found on the serial number plate attached to the frame). The search result should list the serial number ranges for that particular model number. Make the appropriate selection to access things like the PDF Operator's Manual and Parts Catalog for your particular mower.
Go here to download the Factory Service Manual for your mower. This detailed manual will provide basically everything you need to know about taking care of your Greensmaster.
Current production Greensmasters have Subaru engines, but most that are currently on the secondary market are equipped with the Kawasaki FE120 Engine . The Service Manual for the Kawasaki engine can be found here (or several other places online with a quick Google search). Most common replacement parts for the Kawasaki engine are readily available from online parts warehouses like Jack's Small Engines.
If you are just looking for general Greensmaster Specifications (like HOC range, clip rate, etc.), you can find those here:
If you are looking for part numbers for Greensmaster Accessories (like bedknife, reel and roller options), you can find those here:
Go here to learn more about increasing the HOC range of a Greensmaster Flex.
For common aftermarket replacement parts and accessories, I would suggest R&R Products. They make it pretty easy to find parts by selecting the make/model of your mower, then viewing the various parts schematics.
For uncommon replacement parts and accessories, you will need to contact the Toro Golf Equipment dealer that services your region. Note that Toro dealers who sell residential/commercial mowers do not have access to parts for Toro greensmowers and other "golfcourse equipment".
GSA Price List for some Toro parts - courtesy of @FedDawg555
2001 - 2020 of 2034 Posts
I’m ashamed to say I basically took the winter off and just read this. I just finished doing my spring scalp to .5 and all I did was run my bed knife buddy over the bed knife and it cut great. Before I start cutting(which may be a while considering how cool our spring has been) I will backlap the reel and see what I have. Thanks for the instructions how to get it going with Jerry Pate in Pensacola. We just got home from a week at Panama City Beach so I’m thinking I will time my reel and bearings order with a vacation trip. Probably later this summer. Thanks again. 👍Yup! Report back if you have issues, I’ll find some numbers to pass along to get you taken care of. Just ask for customer service, and that you need to order some parts. Once with a rep, let them you want to do a cash account, and get some parts ordered. Pass along the CC numbers and shipping info and you are off to the races.
No worries! They have locations in Atlanta as well if you end up going past there. For as cheap and fast their shipping is- I’d go that route anyways!I’m ashamed to say I basically took the winter off and just read this. I just finished doing my spring scalp to .5 and all I did was run my bed knife buddy over the bed knife and it cut great. Before I start cutting(which may be a while considering how cool our spring has been) I will backlap the reel and see what I have. Thanks for the instructions how to get it going with Jerry Pate in Pensacola. We just got home from a week at Panama City Beach so I’m thinking I will time my reel and bearings order with a vacation trip. Probably later this summer. Thanks again. 👍
I believe the manual says to use a block of wood between the reel and the catcher bar to hold the reel steady while backing off the retaining nut. Place the wood so it is pushing against the backside of the reel blade.
That might be a 1993 model year. It's old and has a HIC restriction lower than the later model years. I don't remember exactly but might be 0.5".What do you think this mower is worth? Serial number is 04051 - 30622. It has the brush groomer but is missing cover, belt and pullys. Located in Tulsa Oklahoma.
The right reel cover and the groomer cover should be about a $100-150, the pulleys/belt I don't know. The bigger factor would br the condition of reel.
Hey everyone.
I have a quick question that I’m hoping someone can help me solve.
my GM1000 just finished mowing and now is leaking a decent amount of fuel out of the AIR filter. (Not fuel filter)
Took the air filter off and it appears to be coming from the carb.
any idea what just caused this?
I have a quick question that I’m hoping someone can help me solve.
my GM1000 just finished mowing and now is leaking a decent amount of fuel out of the AIR filter. (Not fuel filter)
Took the air filter off and it appears to be coming from the carb.
any idea what just caused this?
Float in the carburetor could be dirty and sticking open a little bit. Or the vent tube on the front of the carburetor could be clogged.
Thanks for the info.Float in the carburetor could be dirty and sticking open a little bit. Or the vent tube on the front of the carburetor could be clogged.
Have you or anyone else on here had any luck with an aftermarket carb?
Just grab one online and then throw it on and it’s good to go?
I’m asking because I’m not even slightly mechanically inclined so wondering if it would be easier to just buy a whole new carb and then install it instead of breaking the OEM one down and cleaning everything and then have to put back together.
@Romangorilla if you are able to swap the carb, you can fix the float. The carbs are really basic. You should be able to find a float pretty easy if yours did break.
Too much fuel in the carb will get sent through a hose from the carb over to and out the air filter. If the machine was running at a high rpm and you shut it off it may have had too much and caused the over flow.
Too much fuel in the carb will get sent through a hose from the carb over to and out the air filter. If the machine was running at a high rpm and you shut it off it may have had too much and caused the over flow.
Thanks for the info.@Romangorilla if you are able to swap the carb, you can fix the float. The carbs are really basic. You should be able to find a float pretty easy if yours did break.
Too much fuel in the carb will get sent through a hose from the carb over to and out the air filter. If the machine was running at a high rpm and you shut it off it may have had too much and caused the over flow.
For the first time ever in my life I took the carb off and then took it apart, and cleaned it with carb cleaner.
I then put it back together and re-installed it.
The GM 1000 ran really well and cut great but then when I was done it started to leak again through the air filter.
Not sure I would know what a broken float would look like.
The float needle and float seemed clean and serviceable but what do I know.
@Romangorilla ok, so you found the float in the drain bowl. The "needle" is sort of a finger sticking upwards off the float arms that support the float. When the bowl is full of fuel, the float raises up and the needle (finger) plugs the incoming fuel hole. As the fuel empties the float drops and the needle lets more fuel in.
If the needle doesn't seal tight, it can let excess fuel in. When the engine is running, it may not be noticeable, but may overfill when turned off. If the float has a pin hole it may fill with some fuel and not float up enough to get a good seal. Sometimes the needle or where it seals can get gunked up. The float may just need to be replaced. Make sure the holes where the pin slides through the arms that hold the float on aren't sloppy. I've seen metal needles, straight plastic ones, and ones that are plastic with a rubber tip/seal. The set up is pretty simple, but sometimes it doesn't take much to where they don't seal well.
I'd try just a new float 1st, but you can buy complete parts kits, and if you just want to swap for new I don't think carbs are too spendy at all.
I'd think that would fix your issue.
If the needle doesn't seal tight, it can let excess fuel in. When the engine is running, it may not be noticeable, but may overfill when turned off. If the float has a pin hole it may fill with some fuel and not float up enough to get a good seal. Sometimes the needle or where it seals can get gunked up. The float may just need to be replaced. Make sure the holes where the pin slides through the arms that hold the float on aren't sloppy. I've seen metal needles, straight plastic ones, and ones that are plastic with a rubber tip/seal. The set up is pretty simple, but sometimes it doesn't take much to where they don't seal well.
I'd try just a new float 1st, but you can buy complete parts kits, and if you just want to swap for new I don't think carbs are too spendy at all.
I'd think that would fix your issue.
Thanks for that info.@Romangorilla ok, so you found the float in the drain bowl. The "needle" is sort of a finger sticking upwards off the float arms that support the float. When the bowl is full of fuel, the float raises up and the needle (finger) plugs the incoming fuel hole. As the fuel empties the float drops and the needle lets more fuel in.
If the needle doesn't seal tight, it can let excess fuel in. When the engine is running, it may not be noticeable, but may overfill when turned off. If the float has a pin hole it may fill with some fuel and not float up enough to get a good seal. Sometimes the needle or where it seals can get gunked up. The float may just need to be replaced. Make sure the holes where the pin slides through the arms that hold the float on aren't sloppy. I've seen metal needles, straight plastic ones, and ones that are plastic with a rubber tip/seal. The set up is pretty simple, but sometimes it doesn't take much to where they don't seal well.
I'd try just a new float 1st, but you can buy complete parts kits, and if you just want to swap for new I don't think carbs are too spendy at all.
I'd think that would fix your issue.
I really appreciate it.
How do I adjust the RPM’s on this mower and how do I know if the RPMs are in the correct range?
I think Subaru and Kawasaki engines were used depending on production series. Pretty sure page 1 of this thread has pdf manuals for the mower that will list the preferred rpm setting. Your mower should have (I think they all came with them ... mine has one) a digitial tach/hour meter on it. Use the button to switch it to the tach/rpm setting. There is an adjustment screw on the carb that can raise and lower the rpms when at idle. You'll want to read the manual instructions for mower lever positions and for making any engine adjustments.
Hi everyone. I have a 2017 GM1600 with groomer. I bought a lock n lube grease gun but I’m having trouble getting the coupler to fit on a bunch of zerks. For example the drum bearing zerks and roller/groomer zerks. What specialized couplers are you using for these? Do you use a needle? If so do you inject after depressing the small ball bearing in the center of the zerk? Thanks ahead of time for your help
When scalping with my toro 1000 the blades will stop spinning and I have to backup and go in again. I replaced the v belts but that did not seem to help
1. checked reel to bedkife
2. Checked reel belt
3. cuts paper easily and there is no metal to metal contact
i have no idea if this is just a limitation of the older 1000's or if I have a another issue
i was trying to go from .8 to .4. it almost seems like the reel is digging into the turf.
1. checked reel to bedkife
2. Checked reel belt
3. cuts paper easily and there is no metal to metal contact
i have no idea if this is just a limitation of the older 1000's or if I have a another issue
i was trying to go from .8 to .4. it almost seems like the reel is digging into the turf.
@soupy01833, it could be that you have a higher HOC bedknife but you most likely are just trying to take off too much at one time. When I scalp my 419, I have to take 1/8" steps as a maximum. Once you get into the stems it gets really thick and will bind up the reel quickly. Another common practice is to back off the RTBK contact a little when scalping. This puts less pressure on the cutting edge and helps the mower to not bog down. It will affect your aftercut appearance but who really cares about aftercut when scalping.
@Redtwin that makes sense. I am done scalping so we will see how it goes when I raise the HOC
Ran into a problem on a 1600 that a friend has. The left drum is hard to spin even by hand. The right one spins fine. Any idea why that might be? Belts and pulleys are good.
Bearings probably wentRan into a problem on a 1600 that a friend has. The left drum is hard to spin even by hand. The right one spins fine. Any idea why that might be? Belts and pulleys are good.
2001 - 2020 of 2034 Posts
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