Toro Greensmaster & Greensmaster Flex Resources

370470 Views 2033 Replies 280 Participants Last post by mattb, 1 d ago

Ware

Discussion Starter · Jan 30, 2017

I know several of us here run Toro Greensmaster reel mowers. This post is a resource to help you locate relevant manuals and documentation for your Toro greensmower.

Go here and enter your mower's model number (found on the serial number plate attached to the frame). The search result should list the serial number ranges for that particular model number. Make the appropriate selection to access things like the PDF Operator's Manual and Parts Catalog for your particular mower.

Go here to download the Factory Service Manual for your mower. This detailed manual will provide basically everything you need to know about taking care of your Greensmaster.

Current production Greensmasters have Subaru engines, but most that are currently on the secondary market are equipped with the Kawasaki FE120 Engine . The Service Manual for the Kawasaki engine can be found here (or several other places online with a quick Google search). Most common replacement parts for the Kawasaki engine are readily available from online parts warehouses like Jack's Small Engines.

If you are just looking for general Greensmaster Specifications (like HOC range, clip rate, etc.), you can find those here:

Greensmaster 800/1000/1600 Spec Sheet
Greensmaster Flex Spec Sheet

If you are looking for part numbers for Greensmaster Accessories (like bedknife, reel and roller options), you can find those here:

Greensmaster 1000 Accessories

Go here to learn more about increasing the HOC range of a Greensmaster Flex.

For common aftermarket replacement parts and accessories, I would suggest R&R Products. They make it pretty easy to find parts by selecting the make/model of your mower, then viewing the various parts schematics.

For uncommon replacement parts and accessories, you will need to contact the Toro Golf Equipment dealer that services your region. Note that Toro dealers who sell residential/commercial mowers do not have access to parts for Toro greensmowers and other "golfcourse equipment".

GSA Price List for some Toro parts - courtesy of @FedDawg555

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FATC1TY

· #1,981 · 8 mo ago

Mathwiz said:
Thanks @FATC1TY. I'll try again.

Yup! Report back if you have issues, I’ll find some numbers to pass along to get you taken care of. Just ask for customer service, and that you need to order some parts. Once with a rep, let them you want to do a cash account, and get some parts ordered. Pass along the CC numbers and shipping info and you are off to the races.

Reactions: 1

Ware

Discussion Starter · #1,982 · 8 mo ago

Flint_Hills said:
Ware,
Would you happen to have a link or location of the legacy Flex 21 Service/Maintenance manuals? I'm hunting for the service manual for the 4202-27000xxx cutting unit. I am working on rebuilding the cutting unit and I am wanting to make sure I have all the correct parts ordered and specs for the rebuild.
Thanks in advance,
BT

Sorry, I don’t - but I bet someone here does.

Goater90

· #1,983 · 7 mo ago

10

Just took a look at a 1999 GM1000 this morning. Did my research on here and checked everything that was recommended.
A few concerns though:
1. When started it smoked quite a bit of white smoke for about 15 or 20 seconds or so until idled up and then it stopped. Created a pretty big cloud.
2. I pulled the fuel filter and there was lots of stuff in it. See picture below.
3. Would not cut any paper. We adjusted the reel to bedknife down two clicks and still wouldn't. Assume it needs a backlap? Buddy said he hasn't backlapped or checked real to bedknife since he bought it this spring.
4. Cracked belt cover on top, and one of the belts has a couple large cracks.

The good,
Reel and bedknife were replaced this spring, no damage to either. Started first pull. Ran good. Reel engaged and disengaged well. All other belts were in good shape. Reel did not have any play = good bearings. Reel spun freely by hand.

Guy is asking 2000CAD, but I got him down to 1500CAD, about 1100USD.

Is that smoking at start up normal or a concern. He claimed all the greensmasters he's had have done that. Not sure if he is BSing though.

Thanks for the help.

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Redtwin

· #1,984 · 7 mo ago

A little smoke at start up is not a big concern, especially if it hasn't been run in a while. Changing oil and filters is pretty standard on buying used as is replacing any worn belts. $1100USD sounds like a fair deal with recent prices but not sure what they are going for up in your area. If it has transport wheels and the catcher that is a great deal. The reel and bedknife look great.

Goater90

· #1,985 · 7 mo ago

Redtwin said:
A little smoke at start up is not a big concern, especially if it hasn't been run in a while. Changing oil and filters is pretty standard on buying used as is replacing any worn belts. $1100USD sounds like a fair deal with recent prices but not sure what they are going for up in your area. If it has transport wheels and the catcher that is a great deal. The reel and bedknife look great.

Usually up here in Canada they go for more just because there are far less of them than south of the border. I figured a bit of smoke would be ok, but when he started it in his garage it was puffing pretty hard, boarder line smoking out the garage. After a few seconds I made the comment to him of wow that's quite a bit of smoke, so he pushed it out the door and reved it up and it made a pretty good cloud outside hanging in the air and then stopped smoking after a few seconds. I wish I would have taken some video. He had mowed with it and washed it up the day before, so maybe he had it tipped over for a bit washing it but it had ran recently, and would of had to have ran and been driven into the garage after washing. He claimed the smoke was normal, but my old Briggs rotary doesn's smoke this much when started, haha. No smoke once going and seemed to run well. I had it tipped up to check the bedknife, and after when he started it back up again it made another pretty good cloud. I've tried to search some YouTube videos of people starting theirs up and none look like they smoke as much as this one did. Is a lot of smoke something people see after just having it tipped back on the handle bar for a bit? I just worry a piston ring could be going or something. Or maybe the symtoms could point to something with the carb? I am not very mechanically inclined, but have just read the horror stories. Sounds like those Kawasakis are quite expensive to rebuild. Thanks again for your input.

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Redtwin

· #1,986 · 7 mo ago

A lot of smoke isn't normal. I've had 4 machines with the FE120 engine and only one of them smokes at startup. That one has been abused so I know why it smokes. A puff of smoke at startup isn't a big deal especially on an older engine but if it smokes for more than a couple of seconds it might mean there is oil getting into the combustion. I can work on them but I am not an engine expert by any means. Hopefully someone can chime in who know more about these smaller engines.

Goater90

· #1,987 · 7 mo ago

Redtwin said:
A lot of smoke isn't normal. I've had 4 machines with the FE120 engine and only one of them smokes at startup. That one has been abused so I know why it smokes. A puff of smoke at startup isn't a big deal especially on an older engine but if it smokes for more than a couple of seconds it might mean there is oil getting into the combustion. I can work on them but I am not an engine expert by any means. Hopefully someone can chime in who know more about these smaller engines.

Thanks for sharing your experience. It's at least good to know that it isn't normal. I suppose I should pass this one up and keep looking. Would hate to have to drop a bunch of money into engine work.

Redtwin

· #1,988 · 7 mo ago

I’d low ball it with the explanation that the engine is probably in its last days. I would still think $800 would be a good deal considering it has a new reel and bedknife.

Logan200TCP

· #1,989 · 7 mo ago

Too much for a 23 year old walk greens mower as far as I'm concerned, especially with those issues you've noted. If that thing had been through a professional shop and was operating as expected, I would say go for it.
Worth noting and depending on your HOC, that 11 blade reel might be more trouble than it's worth. Lots of life on the reel, but no good for higher cuts.

Send me a PM if you are interested in a mower from the local Toro distributor.

SpartanDad

· #1,990 · 6 mo ago

2

Hey everyone!

First time poster and could use a bit of advice. I purchased a 2001 Greensmaster 1600 back in September and am in the midst of a complete teardown / cleanup / restoration. Right now I'm checking all of the bearings seeing what all needs to be replaced, but the Power Shaft Bearing has me absolutely baffled.

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Is it just me or does the grease seal look like it was installed upside down? The housing had a lot of old nasty grease which made me suspect that perhaps it wasn't installed correctly causing it to excessively leak out. I can't seem to find any good pictures showing what it's supposed to look like, but according to the service manual, the seals are supposed to be inserted from the flange end with the flat side pointing up. It doesn't specify which direction is "up" but I would assume that is the flange end.

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Hoping someone with a bit more experience than I can let me know if this looks normal or not. I don't see these parts listed on R&R so I'm a little weary of taking it apart to see if it is indeed upside down.

Thanks!

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Don_Bass

· #1,991 · 5 mo ago

Anyone have A GM1600 Grass Catcher For Sale?.

williams6966

· #1,992 · 2 mo ago

anyone remove these before to change the bearings? what size wrench did you use? also anything that helped finally get them loose? Thanks

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Humbert810

· #1,993 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

williams6966 said:
anyone remove these before to change the bearings? what size wrench did you use? also anything that helped finally get them loose? Thanks View attachment 8725

QUOTE FROM EARLIER POST

"Sorry I wasn't clear earlier. For other readers, yes, the axle inside the mower, between the frame and the drum has a flat section to get a 1" wrench on it. The wrench will then lock the axle when it rests against the frame of the mower. Then you can really crank on the transport axle with another ratcheting wrench, pipe wrench, or 10' cheater bar."

Using a propane torch to heat around the threads of the pulley will do wonders.

The axle you need to hold inside next to the drum is 1", however someone else may be able to check what size the flats are on the pulley itself. Is this on a Flex or GM1000/1600?

Remove drum drive belt from the drum drive assembly (see Drum Drive Belt Replacement Removal).

Note: The pulley (LH) has left hand threads, while the pulley (RH) has right hand threads.
Each pulley has an arrow stamped on it for the direction of tightening.

2. Remove pulley from drum shaft as follows
A. Use a suitable wrench on the flats of the drum shaft, between the drum and the frame, to lock the shaft.
B. Unscrew pulley from the drum shaft.

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Humbert810

· #1,994 · 2 mo ago

dfw_pilot said:
I wanted the transport axles off my Toro GM1000 so I could get closer to objects.

This is a spare GM1000 that I have and I had so much trouble getting them off the first one, I dreaded doing it again on this one. It turns out, I was fortunate this time. They came off without much trouble.

Toro puts thread locker on the axles to keep them in very tight. The best way I've found to remove them when they have thread locker applied, is to heat up the axle with a blow torch for three minutes. This gets it hot enough to loosen the thread locker and allow it to break free. My first GM1000 required 3-4 minutes of heat from a Berzomatic, locking the inner axle with a 1 inch crescent, and then hopping on the crescent on the transport axle. It was a nightmare up until that point, but the heat made it work nicely.

Today with this one, I put the 1 inch crescent on the inner axle, put another crescent on the transport axle, stood on it, and: pop!

If you want to take yours off, first try the easy two-crescent method. If that doesn't work, buy a torch, take your belts off the pulley's and heat it up.

Here is the post from page 1 of this thread where DFW Pilot removed his transport axles.

Bradcrowdis

· #1,995 · 2 mo ago

I have a Flex 2100. Prepping to start cutting for the season and it appears the Left drum is squeaking very significantly.

I was unable to locate any grease zerks, what am I missing?

uts

· #1,996 · 1 mo ago

2

Working on a 2004 GM1600. I'm pretty sure I have a bad bearing in the drum drive assembly. The rod/shaft has someplay in it.

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Can someone guide me.how to get this nut loose?

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I can't find a way to keep the shaft from not spinning. I did try looking through the manual but can't find (maybe just missed it) how to do this.

Thanks.

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deanius

· #1,997 · 1 mo ago

uts said:
Working on a 2004 GM1600. I'm pretty sure I have a bad bearing in the drum drive assembly. The rod/shaft has someplay in it.

View attachment 11307

Can someone guide me.how to get this nut loose?
View attachment 11308

I can't find a way to keep the shaft from not spinning. I did try looking through the manual but can't find (maybe just missed it) how to do this.

Thanks.

I’d put the belt back on there and use it to grip/protect the pulley while holding it tight with some large pliers, and then give it a go with the impact driver. It shouldn’t take too much force. If it does, apply some heat and try again.

FATC1TY

· #1,998 · 1 mo ago

uts said:
Working on a 2004 GM1600. I'm pretty sure I have a bad bearing in the drum drive assembly. The rod/shaft has someplay in it.

View attachment 11307

Can someone guide me.how to get this nut loose?
View attachment 11308

I can't find a way to keep the shaft from not spinning. I did try looking through the manual but can't find (maybe just missed it) how to do this.

Thanks.

Try bracing the drum, and putting the mower “in drive” with the black hand lever. That should lock it down with hopes you can get some leverage and pull up to loosen it.

Mathwiz

· #1,999 · 1 mo ago

Humbert810 said:
Here is the post from page 1 of this thread where DFW Pilot removed his transport axles.

The hex on the transport axle is SAE 7/8". I used a 1/2" drive battery impact with a deep well socket to initially remove mine. Just know for 100% certainty that standing in the operating position, the left axle has normal or right-hand threads while the right axle has backward or left-hand threads. I put a thin coat of anti-seize on the threads because I use my transfer wheels to move the mower, then take the axles off to mow. I even put the axles in and wheels on to cross my washed pea gravel driveway. I know it's ridiculously anal, but I don't want to scar up my rear drum any more than necessary. I have learned that after screwing the axles in, and putting the wheels on, if I disengage the drive and push it to where I'm going, I can remove the axles with my fingers. If I allow the motor to drive it on the transport wheels, I have to use my 1" & 7/8" wrenches to "break" the axle loose.

FATC1TY

· #2,000 · 1 mo ago

Mathwiz said:
The hex on the transport axle is SAE 7/8". I used a 1/2" drive battery impact with a deep well socket to initially remove mine. Just know for 100% certainty that standing in the operating position, the left axle has normal or right-hand threads while the right axle has backward or left-hand threads. I put a thin coat of anti-seize on the threads because I use my transfer wheels to move the mower, then take the axles off to mow. I even put the axles in and wheels on to cross my washed pea gravel driveway. I know it's ridiculously anal, but I don't want to scar up my rear drum any more than necessary. I have learned that after screwing the axles in, and putting the wheels on, if I disengage the drive and push it to where I'm going, I can remove the axles with my fingers. If I allow the motor to drive it on the transport wheels, I have to use my 1" & 7/8" wrenches to "break" the axle loose.

That’s serious dedication. I haven’t had my axles on in years and then I had to install when I used a ramp and took it to toro for a tune up and new reel. I forgot how I hate using those transport wheels.
I’ll drive and turn mine on concrete and it’s not worse for it after many years.

anti seize is absolutely the way to go, I use it on mine and they live in a tool box.

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