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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just acquired a 2008 Toro Greensmaster 1600 (model 04060) with a Kawasaki engine...

When I turn the throttle down to approximately 50% or less, the engine shuts down. I'm pretty mechanically inclined (used to be an HVAC repairman in my younger days, and now I do I.T.), but I am not well-versed in small engine stuff outside of regular maintenance things like oil changes, and spark plug and air/fuel filter changes. Can anybody guide me in the right direction as to what the issue may be? Dirty carb? Something else?

I literally just received the mower yesterday, so I haven't dug too deep into it yet. I'd like to be able to run this with the throttle turned down, since my lawn area is rather small and I'm making a lot of turns.

I suppose I should find a good small engine mechanic near me for future needs, as well as a place that will sharpen my reel.

Thanks in advance

 

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I'd suspect the idle settings as a first place to check, and or bad gas.

Dumb questions:
Did you buy from an individual or a business?
Did you test it out or see it run first?
Did you get the ethanol free gas? (probably less an issue for a mower than a weed whacker)
How's the oil/air filter/spark plug look?
 

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I would guess the throttle just needs to be adjusted for your particular engine. Many engines, I'm more familiar with Honda and Briggs, have that same function of when the throttle is lowered significantly it shuts off the engine. Aside... I am not particularly familiar with Kawasaki engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
SCGrassMan said:
I'd suspect the idle settings as a first place to check, and or bad gas.

Dumb questions:
Did you buy from an individual or a business?
Did you test it out or see it run first?
Did you get the ethanol free gas? (probably less an issue for a mower than a weed whacker)
How's the oil/air filter/spark plug look?
I bought online from www.cuttinggreenllc.com via a post they made on www.turfnet.com. They assured me it was in perfect running condition and ready to mow. They sharpened the reel and installed a new fairway bedknife on it at my request, and shipped it with a brand new grass catcher. I was not able to test the mower before purchasing due to distance, but he sent me pics and we went back and forth via email with questions and answers for a few days before I purchased it.

I haven't put my own gas in it yet. It had some gas in it when it arrived, and I started it up when I took it off the pallet to make sure it ran and mowed a small section of my lawn before putting it in the shed and having to leave my house due to things I had to get done yesterday. I haven't checked the plug or filter yet. I plan to wash it down and check a few things on it today, but wanted to get some opinions from people who know more than me about engines on what I should check or adjust or clean.

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SGrabs33 said:
I would guess the throttle just needs to be adjusted for your particular engine. Many engines, I'm more familiar with Honda and Briggs, have that same function of when the throttle is lowered significantly it shuts off the engine. Aside... I am not particularly familiar with Kawasaki engines.
I'm a big fan of Honda engines. My pressure washer, aerator, snowblower, and slit-seeder all have Honda engines. My Toro rotary mower and greens mower both have Kawasaki engines though (and so did my Scag that I just sold). So far, I do like Kawasaki stuff. I'm just not all that savvy when it comes to engine fixes though.

I'll have to google some tips on throttle adjustments :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
SCGrassMan said:
I would call who you purchased it from as step 1
Did that the minute I took it off the pallet and found out that it wouldn't run at low throttle. The reply he gave was exactly this (copied and pasted from his email):

"the engine has to be at "near" Full Throttle to operate... It could depend on the height of the grass that you are cutting as well if it is too long and taking too much grass it will put a strain on the engine as well at lower throttle"

My inquiry to him said nothing about me mowing, just that the engine dies when I turn the throttle down. He seems rather clueless, but I just talked to a mechanic and he says it sounds like the carb needs to be cleaned. I picked up some carb cleaner today and will try to get it done ASAP. It doesn't seem like this is a major problem. Worse case I can order a new carb and replace it for not a ton of money. Not worth returning the mower over this. I replaced the carb in my Echo edger and in my Husqvarna handheld blower a couple seasons ago and it wasn't that big of a deal.

Ward Connor's 1600 has the same issue, and he also says it's because he needs to replace his carb.
 

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20k Tif419 Bermuda in Greenville SC.
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alpine0000 said:
SCGrassMan said:
I would call who you purchased it from as step 1
Did that the minute I took it off the pallet and found out that it wouldn't run at low throttle. The reply he gave was exactly this (copied and pasted from his email):

"the engine has to be at "near" Full Throttle to operate... It could depend on the height of the grass that you are cutting as well if it is too long and taking too much grass it will put a strain on the engine as well at lower throttle"

My inquiry to him said nothing about me mowing, just that the engine dies when I turn the throttle down. He seems rather clueless, but I just talked to a mechanic and he says it sounds like the carb needs to be cleaned. I picked up some carb cleaner today and will try to get it done ASAP. It doesn't seem like this is a major problem. Worse case I can order a new carb and replace it for not a ton of money. Not worth returning the mower over this. I replaced the carb in my Echo edger and in my Husqvarna handheld blower a couple seasons ago and it wasn't that big of a deal.

Ward Connor's 1600 has the same issue, and he also says it's because he needs to replace his carb.
Before you shell out the bucks for a replacement carb, remove the pilot (idle) jet and clean it out by spraying that carb clean through it. See if that improves it. It's very common for the idle circuit on these carbs to varnish a bit from sitting. You can try running it with some fuel treatment as well and see if it cleans up but if it's stalling, it probably needs to be cleaned.

@wardconnor this might help your machine too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
MasterMech said:
Before you shell out the bucks for a replacement carb, remove the pilot (idle) jet and clean it out by spraying that carb clean through it. See if that improves it. It's very common for the idle circuit on these carbs to varnish a bit from sitting. You can try running it with some fuel treatment as well and see if it cleans up but if it's stalling, it probably needs to be cleaned.
Thanks for the reply. I went up to Advance Auto Parts this afternoon and bought a can of carb cleaner. I removed the air filter and sprayed a ton of cleaner into the carb, and also around the throttle/exterior of the carb too. It was all gunked up. It runs much better now and doesnt stall at low idle (although still not "perfect"). The spark plug and air filter need to be changed too, so I'm going to order those online tonight, along with a fuel filter. Huge improvement already, though, after just cleaning the carb out :thumbup:
 

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One thing I will recommend is that you start looking for someone to sharpen your reel for you, or make some friends with mechanics at golf courses near you. Steer clear of driveways and objects, and if you plan on cutting close to objects, look into taking the transport axles off if you haven't already.

+1 to what @MasterMech recommended. Pretty common fix. Be sure to use ethanol free gas for less hassle in the future.

FWIW, that's a beautiful green lawn you have there. I'd like to have one that green someday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Colonel K0rn said:
+1 to what @MasterMech recommended. Pretty common fix. Be sure to use ethanol free gas for less hassle in the future.
Thanks for the reply. I already fixed the issue as mentioned a few posts up...

Colonel K0rn said:
One thing I will recommend is that you start looking for someone to sharpen your reel for you, or make some friends with mechanics at golf courses near you. Steer clear of driveways and objects, and if you plan on cutting close to objects, look into taking the transport axles off if you haven't already.
You are correct about me needing to find somebody to sharpen the reel! That is definitely on my to-do list.

Those axles do make it a pain to get near thing. I wish I could remove them, but I can't take the axles off, as I specifically need the transport wheels to ride up metal ramps to get the mower into my shed that sits about 10-12" off the ground.





Colonel K0rn said:
FWIW, that's a beautiful green lawn you have there. I'd like to have one that green someday.
Thank you! I hope the lawn stays this green once I start mowing lower! :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Colonel K0rn said:
One thing I will recommend is that you start looking for someone to sharpen your reel for you, or make some friends with mechanics at golf courses near you.
I found this place that is right up the street from me... Only $79. I'd have to look into them some more, though, to make sure they have the proper equipment and know what they're doing with reels: https://vopec.com/services/0/72672/sharpening

EDIT: Nevermind! I emailed them and they said they don't sharpen reels because their techs do not have the experience, and they also dont have the proper equipment. I told them that they should remove "reel mower sharpening" from their services price list on their website. They replied back and said that price listed on their services list is for push reel mowers, which they *do* sharpen, but what I have is not considered a reel mower, but considered a greens mower, which they don't sharpen :lol:
 

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I am going to take a picture of the location and the part itself of a jet screwed into the top of the carb. It is a little brass thing with 2 big holes drilled through the sides and one tiny hole at the bottom of it. When that hole is clogged with grass or scum or varnish, the engine will either fail to run or it will only run on full throttle. When a friend of mine got a GM 1000 from North Carolina, I did the throttle stop adjustment and it ran rough then died. I had to clean out the brass jet then it ran smoothly at any speed. Carb cleaner spray is good for flushing out all of the garbage after running fine nylon line throught the bottom hole.
 

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Greendoc said:
I am going to take a picture of the location and the part itself of a jet screwed into the top of the carb. It is a little brass thing with 2 big holes drilled through the sides and one tiny hole at the bottom of it. When that hole is clogged with grass or scum or varnish, the engine will either fail to run or it will only run on full throttle. When a friend of mine got a GM 1000 from North Carolina, I did the throttle stop adjustment and it ran rough then died. I had to clean out the brass jet then it ran smoothly at any speed. Carb cleaner spray is good for flushing out all of the garbage after running fine nylon line throught the bottom hole.
I might could do that on my old push mower... sometimes it dies when I engage the blade if it's not "warmed up".
 

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Greendoc said:
I am going to take a picture of the location and the part itself of a jet screwed into the top of the carb. It is a little brass thing with 2 big holes drilled through the sides and one tiny hole at the bottom of it. When that hole is clogged with grass or scum or varnish, the engine will either fail to run or it will only run on full throttle. When a friend of mine got a GM 1000 from North Carolina, I did the throttle stop adjustment and it ran rough then died. I had to clean out the brass jet then it ran smoothly at any speed. Carb cleaner spray is good for flushing out all of the garbage after running fine nylon line throught the bottom hole.
@dfw_pilot already beat you to it last year :D
 

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I'm new to this forum but thought I would offer some input on purchasing equipment on turfnet for home owner use. There are some "dealers" on there that buy junk equipment from golf courses and equipment dealers then sell it for extra income. Sometimes you will get a great deal and other times a great head ache.

If you are in the market for any type of commercial reel mower I would suggest reach out to the superintendent at the nearest private golf club and see if they have anything they looking to get rid of. This eliminates the middlemen, you are buying wholesale, will get you an honest assessment of the piece your buying and you can see it operate.
Also it will give you an opportunity to make contacts with someone who has the ability to service/repair/grind your mower after the purchase.
Just my two cents. These machines can quickly become money pits.
 
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