Lawn Care Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

· Registered
Latitude 36 Bermuda, Centipede
Joined
·
389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After checking over my recently acquired GM1000, I discovered one of the reel bearings was bad. I could wiggle the reel up and down very slightly on one side which makes bedknife to reel setting inconsistent.

First I removed all the side covers. Next I backed off the bedknife to reel setting then removed the bedbar. I then proceeded to remove the reel drive belt, reel pulley and drive assembly, and last the reel lock nut. I wasn't completely sure about how to stabilize the reel to remove the nut. The service manual does not state how to stabilize the reel to remove the nut. My first thought was to wedge something there like a piece of wood but I wasn't sure if this was correct. I reached out to Ware for advice on that and my thought of wedging the reel with wood was confirmed. Thanks Ware!!







After removing the reel and bearing housings, the next step was to remove the old seals, bearings, retaining ring, and wave washer from the housings. I wasn't concerned with saving the seals so I used a pair of vice grips to pull up the edge of the large seal to remove it and the ring around it. Here's a few pictures showing how I removed everything from the housings. I just used a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to carefully tap the small seal and bearing out of the housing.











I packed the new bearings with grease then used a seal and race driver to install new seals and bearings into the housings.





New seals and bearings installed and all ready for reassembly.





All back together. No more play in the reel now. Nice and solid ready for a backlap!

 

· Registered
Latitude 36 Bermuda, Centipede
Joined
·
389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Red! No problem, I thought it might be helpful for others needing to do this procedure. The service manual covers everything pretty well except wedging the reel lol.
 

· Registered
Latitude 36 Bermuda, Centipede
Joined
·
389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did have to use a block of wood wedged between the reel and rear drum to keep it from spinning.

Like this

The first two pictures show how I wedged it in there but it's kind of hard to see.
 

· Registered
Latitude 36 Bermuda, Centipede
Joined
·
389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
southpaw748 said:
Where did you find the service manual? I have a set of bearings that need to be replaced. Did you get the bearings from R&R?
@southpaw748 Check out this thread:
Toro Greensmaster & Greensmaster Flex Resources

There's a link there that will take you to Toro's website where you can enter the model number of your mower for the correct service and parts manual. Yes I got my bearings from R&R.

@Paul I got the mower from a guy over in Georgia. He's a forum member and had it listed for sale on here in the market place. I have not seen a lot greens mowers for sale locally to Columbia. When I used to search Craigslist regularly I would see mowers come up for sale around the Greenville area and over in Georgia.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Brodgers88 said:
@Brodgers88 Was there anything holding this seal in? I just had my reel bearings & seals replaced and when greasing them after a wash the seal on the reel drive side popped out.

I'm going to pull the the reel drive and the small cover. Did you just use a 1/2" extension to back it out of the reel? Did the block of wood you used to stop the reel from spinning while removing the reel drive gear work ok? Thanks!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,765 Posts
Brodgers88 said:
After checking over my recently acquired GM1000, I discovered one of the reel bearings was bad. I could wiggle the reel up and down very slightly on one side which makes bedknife to reel setting inconsistent.

First I removed all the side covers. Next I backed off the bedknife to reel setting then removed the bedbar. I then proceeded to remove the reel drive belt, reel pulley and drive assembly, and last the reel lock nut. I wasn't completely sure about how to stabilize the reel to remove the nut. The service manual does not state how to stabilize the reel to remove the nut. My first thought was to wedge something there like a piece of wood but I wasn't sure if this was correct. I reached out to Ware for advice on that and my thought of wedging the reel with wood was confirmed. Thanks Ware!!







After removing the reel and bearing housings, the next step was to remove the old seals, bearings, retaining ring, and wave washer from the housings. I wasn't concerned with saving the seals so I used a pair of vice grips to pull up the edge of the large seal to remove it and the ring around it. Here's a few pictures showing how I removed everything from the housings. I just used a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to carefully tap the small seal and bearing out of the housing.











I packed the new bearings with grease then used a seal and race driver to install new seals and bearings into the housings.





New seals and bearings installed and all ready for reassembly.





All back together. No more play in the reel now. Nice and solid ready for a backlap!

Happy to have found this! I just broke my reel and Im going to try and have it welded to get through the year but if I cant I will replace the 11 blade reel with an 8 blade. Hope its as "not to painful" as you make it seem :)
 

· Registered
Latitude 36 Bermuda, Centipede
Joined
·
389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
T0R0 said:
Brodgers88 said:
@Brodgers88 Was there anything holding this seal in? I just had my reel bearings & seals replaced and when greasing them after a wash the seal on the reel drive side popped out.

I'm going to pull the the reel drive and the small cover. Did you just use a 1/2" extension to back it out of the reel? Did the block of wood you used to stop the reel from spinning while removing the reel drive gear work ok? Thanks!
Sorry I'm just seeing this! Yes there is supposed to be a ring holding it in. Yes 1/2" drive with block of wood or 2x4 wedging reel, worked great.
 

· Registered
Latitude 36 Bermuda, Centipede
Joined
·
389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
@Hadendm If I'm remembering correctly I'm pretty sure it was standard threading. I used a pretty big breaker bar as well with a wrench wedged against the ground holding the locknut on the opposite side.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Thanks for the information. I successfully replaced a reel last weekend.

The reel gear was the hardest part. Used a 4 foot pipe over my socket wrench to get some leverage and had someone else hold onto the mower.

I was not able to remove the rings and seals from the housings so i bought new ones. Overall i'm really glad i did it myself. I'm guessing a shop would charge at lease $300 for labor.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
kychan said:
Thanks for the information. I successfully replaced a reel last weekend.

The reel gear was the hardest part. Used a 4 foot pipe over my socket wrench to get some leverage and had someone else hold onto the mower.

I was not able to remove the rings and seals from the housings so i bought new ones. Overall i'm really glad i did it myself. I'm guessing a shop would charge at lease $300 for labor.
Wow thats alot of work! soon i will change mine too.

when you said you bought a new housing. are you talking about the

 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top