Where is a good place to purchase a new bed knife for a toro GM1000? Which one should I get? I know there are different ones but I plan on maintaining between 0.5-0.75" so I don't need the super thin profile one for HOCs like 0.2"
Toro bedknife
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I can't check the number at the moment, but the best way to do it is search for your mower in the drop down menus near the top of the R&R website... Toro > GM1000 > then select the parts diagram for your mower's model number (found on the serial number plate on the frame). They will list all the options for your mower, including the screws. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have one of these to help break the old screws loose. You attach the Toro bedknife screw socket to it and strike it with a hammer to break them loose.ahartzell said:
When it comes time to reassemble, be sure and follow the torque specification/sequence in the factory service manual. I think it calls for anti-seize on the screws, but it has been a while since I read it.
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Truer words were never spoken.Redtenchu said:
Edit: Just realized this is post #500.
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I 100% intend on replacing the flat head screws with torx bolt from mcmaster
I would just make sure the countersink chamfer angles match:95mmrenegade said:
And also that whatever Torx driver you plan to use is impact rated in case you have trouble removing them. I know the flat heads sound like a pain, but they do work decently well with the correct socket and a manual impact driver.
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I will piggyback on what Ware just posted and say that you really shouldn't have any issue getting the correct screws out of the blade when it comes time to change it if you follow the manufacturer's recommendation and use anti-seize on the threads, and also apply some oil to the bed bar prior to mounting the blade. Also make sure that you torque the screws to the correct spec and tighten them correctly. If you follow these steps, you should have no problem removing them when it comes time to change your bar again. After all, the torque spec converted to ft. lbs is ~ 16-17 ft lbs. I've opened jars of pickles that are tighter than that with my bare hands, although some of those have given me a challenge.
Be sure that you replace the screws every time, it's like $3 for the set. Cheap insurance, and less frustration when it comes to reassembly.
One thing I will make a recommendation on is to see if you can get your hands on a tube of MOLYKOTE CU-7439 Plus Paste. I prefer using this over molybdenum based anti-seize pastes, as this type has a higher wear rating and resistance to water wash off, and even if the carrier is removed, still will provide lubrication qualities with the copper, compared to other products. I was introduced to it when I was working at Mercedes-Benz. And as Vince from Sham Wow would say, "Made in Germany. You know the Germans make good stuff." If it's good enough to use on a Benz, it's good enough for anything I would need to use it on.
Be sure that you replace the screws every time, it's like $3 for the set. Cheap insurance, and less frustration when it comes to reassembly.
One thing I will make a recommendation on is to see if you can get your hands on a tube of MOLYKOTE CU-7439 Plus Paste. I prefer using this over molybdenum based anti-seize pastes, as this type has a higher wear rating and resistance to water wash off, and even if the carrier is removed, still will provide lubrication qualities with the copper, compared to other products. I was introduced to it when I was working at Mercedes-Benz. And as Vince from Sham Wow would say, "Made in Germany. You know the Germans make good stuff." If it's good enough to use on a Benz, it's good enough for anything I would need to use it on.
Reviving this thread because spring is almost here and I'm gearing up for the first scalp. Have the bedknife, screws, and tools. I'm looking at toro manual and I don't see where it talks about torque or anti-seize paste on the screws. Any advice? I don't want to put this thing on and have it be uneven and ruin it OR have it flying off and decapitate someone.
Trying to do this today...do you guys remove the entire bed bar? That step lists like 3 tools I don't have :lol:
Also, I'm fairly sure there's no anti-seize paste on this mower....the manual acts like you can just loosen with socket, but even the impact driver isn't making the screws budge...
Also, I'm fairly sure there's no anti-seize paste on this mower....the manual acts like you can just loosen with socket, but even the impact driver isn't making the screws budge...
If someone overtightened :evil: and did not use some kind of Antiseize :evil: the bedknife screws are going to be totally frozen. You are going to need a cold chisel and a hammer. First time I had to replace the bedknife, that involved a blowtorch on the screws, plenty of Liquid Wrench and the chisel with hammer. If you installed the screws correctly the last time, the most that will be needed is going to be a breaker bar + the driver tool. I replace my bedknife at least 2X per year, but I am mowing an acre all together every week.ahartzell said:
I pretzelled the bit for the impact driver on mine. That is when the 2 lb hammer, the Bernzomatic, and the chisel came out. If it is torqued to no more than 17 ft-lbs and Antiseize used on the screws, it comes off easy the next time.ahartzell said:
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