[Reaper]

Hi guys,

Newbie here. Spring is here so I'm looking to start the process of making sure I have a nice-looking lawn this year. Nothing crazy tho, we just had our first baby a week ago so I don't have too much free time; as long as it looks healthy and green from the street I'll be happy. I've done some research in the forum, but a lot of it seems way too advanced for what I'm looking to do right now (and I don't understand half the words).

So what is just a simple (Lowe's) list of things I should do starting now and into the summer months? It is worth noting I do not currently have a sprinkler system, but I may put one in this year depending on the price.

Help is much appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[social port]

The most general advice for spring and summer include
determine the square footage of your lawn https://www.findlotsize.com/
Buy crabgrass preventer product at Lowes based on your square footage needs (this helps prevent weeds from growing and gives your fescue a nice dose of nitrogen)
Mow between 3-4 inches (occasionally measure the cut grass to ensure proper cut height)
Give your fescue one inch of water per week (if it rains one inch that week, no need to water, usually)
Spot spray for weeds using an herbicide readily available at Lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/ORTHO-Weed-B-Gon-32-oz-Weed-Killer-Plus-Crabgrass-Control/50094178 premixed bottles are available, so all you do is hook up to your hose and spray (but watch for temperature restrictions on usage--check the label)
Assess your lawn in late summer to decide if you will overseed in the fall (a usual practice of maintaining a fescue lawn) and think about fertilization. You might also consider getting a soil sample to see if you actually need any nutrient supplements other than nitrogen.

You can always post pictures or describe specific concerns if you have additional questions and/or want advice better tailored to your situation.

 

[social port]

and welcome to TLF :thumbup:

 

[Colonel K0rn]

Welcome to TLF, and contrary to what other Cool Season members may say, bermuda is not a weed. It's an Alpha Grass.

 

[Reaper]

Thanks for the replies.

Is Scotts a good brand? Should I just follow their 4-step program with the crabgrass preventer, were control, and fertilizer?

Also should I apply some lime? I put some down in the Fall at my neighbors recommendation, not sure if I should do it again now.

 

[GrassDaddy]

Hey, also from RI here. I made a video of the general lawn maintenance you'll need to do. This will give you a good lawn. The crazier you go with everything else has diminishing returns. We'll still do it because we have to lol but you can have a nice lawn without going all crazy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbGDH_JOM9w

Scott's is an OK brand. You pay a premium for the name. But the Step 1 is easy to apply for pre-emergent. I'd use regular fertilizers over the other steps though. Lime really depends. If you want to go that route then get a soil test to see if you actually need it.

 

[Green]

Thanks for the replies.

Is Scotts a good brand? Should I just follow their 4-step program with the crabgrass preventer, were control, and fertilizer?

Also should I apply some lime? I put some down in the Fall at my neighbors recommendation, not sure if I should do it again now.

Welcome.

I totally agree with Grassdaddy.

And using a basic name-brand fertilizer plan the first year might not be a bad way to go. Scotts makes excellent products. However, if you go the Scotts 4-step route, some of their steps are actually not actually in the best order for Cool-season grass regions, but you can rearrange them to better suit your (our) area in RI/CT. We can help you with that. Another alternative that's still Scotts is their turfbuilder plan, where you can buy your own stuff and mix and match.

If you have Ace hardware, their own brand of step 1 with weed prevention (pre-emergent herbicide with Dimension) is probably better than Scotts' step 1 (which has Pendimethalin and usually doesn't last as long in the soil). Also, I'd generally avoid Step 2 in either the Scotts or Ace brand because it's a "weed and feed". Unless your entire yard is horribly overrun with non-grass type weeds, there's no reason to dump that much weed killer (herbicide) out. Those products also don't tend to work too well unless you follow the directions perfectly and have ideal weather in the days after application.

A good plan for this year might involve a step 1 with pre-emergent, a step 2 light application of fertilizer in early or mid June (as long as it's not 90 degrees), an early Fall app mid September or so, and a late Fall final app after you've mowed for the last time of the year and the grass isn't growing anymore.

Let me know if you'd like advice on specific readily available products like the ones we've been discussing for those apps. Some of it depends on your grass type. I see you listed "Fescue". Do you know what type, of if there's anything else mixed in? And when was the last fertilizer applied?

 

[Reaper]

Thanks for all the help guys. So I went out and got the Step 1 a few weeks ago but in the chaos of taking care of a new baby, I forgot to put it down.

Is it too late now to apply it? It says on or before Easter (4/1), or before temps are regularly in the 80s. The temps are still in the high 50s and 60s right now so nothing too crazy.

Thanks.

 

[g-man]

I would do it. It will always help.

 

[social port]

I totally missed this little gem the first time this thread came around.

Welcome to TLF, and contrary to what other Cool Season members may say, bermuda is not a weed. It's an Alpha Grass.

Hmmm...

bermuda is not a weed. It's an Alpha Weed Grass

Fixed that for ya, CK. No problem. I'm happy to help :thumbup:

 

[wardconnor]

Welcome to TLF, and contrary to what other Cool Season members may say, bermuda is not a weed. It's an Alpha Grass.

Welcome @Reaper

Bermuda is a weed that can be cut and manicured like a cool season grass or turf. :nod:

People call it grass because technically it looks like grass.

 

[glenmonte]

Welcome here, to being a parent, and to having a nice lawn.

Someone said on one of my threads that my plan looked cruise control, and I took that as a compliment, because I love working on my lawn and yard, but the family takes precedent.

Good advice was given above. First and foremost, get a pre-emergent down asap. I'm on the mobile site, so I can't see your location, but dimension as a pre emergent at the heavier rate should work well. Just be careful if it has fertilizer too so you don't oversupply.

Get a pre mixed gallon of weed killer that is 2,4-d and diacamba for anything you see that isn't grass and squirt halfway between HIGH mowings (that you mulch or discharge). No weed and feeds- they're basically granular form of this spray applied to the whole lawn. Huge waste and unnecessary chemical dump.

Milorganite at bag rate at the end of May and another in July if your lawn didn't go dormant (but you should be watering).

If you can, aerate and overseed in the fall with 150% milorganite or a good starter at bag rate.

 

[Reaper]

Thanks glenmonte. I'm in Rhode Island.

Excuse my ignorance, but what exactly is a pre-emergent? Is it just the Step 1 of the Scotts process?

 

[glenmonte]

In my simple man terms- a pre-emergent is prevents weeds from germinating. I know it can be more complex than as follows, but there are two types of weeds that are the main problem in lawns- grassy (example: crabgrass) and broadleaf (example: dandelion).

Scotts Step 1 is a pre-emergent with a fertilizer, as are most lawn pre-emergents, but there may be better (and lesser known) brands at your Lowes. I recommended Dimension (dithopyr) because at its maximum rate, it can also knock down some crabgrass that already germinated. Other types I'd consider in different circumstances are Prodiamine (earlier in season) Tenacity/mesitrione (early fall/overseeding) and Tupersan/siduron (overseeding). There is another one- pendamethlin- that I don't know much about, so for that reason alone I stay away from. To apply, I go with granular. I do not have experience with spray, but a lot here do. I'd think granular fits your needs better.

To control broadleaf weeds, the best defense is a thick lawn. Then if you do get any, the first offensive is to spot spray them with the most basic weed killer that won't kill your lawn.

Please- to anyone else- correct any misinformation you see here, especially on the names and uses above.

 

[Reaper]

Ok thanks. If I can find the Dimension I will put that down this weekend if that's better than Scott's. Should there be rain or no rain in the forecast after this is down?

 

[social port]

If I can find the Dimension I will put that down this weekend if that's better than Scott's

Dimension is an excellent choice for a Pre-emergent (PreM), but it takes more effort to locate it by itself (i.e., without fertilizer) in granular form. I got mine at a farm supply store. Many of us do use PreMs that are not mixed with fertilizer.

But as other have suggested you can certainly use a PreM and fertilizer combination--especially if you are just starting out. They are, among other things, easier to find and purchase, which is probably what you need with a new baby around the house.
Note Green's suggestions here:

If you have Ace hardware, their own brand of step 1 with weed prevention (pre-emergent herbicide with Dimension) is probably better than Scotts' step 1 (which has Pendimethalin and usually doesn't last as long in the soil)

It looks like Ace Hardware has two versions; to get a bag with dimension, you'll need to get Ace 'Green Turf' on the label (in small print, the active ingredient will read 'dithiopyr' -- that's what you want. Dithiopyr=Dimension). That product is cut with fertilizer, but it is primarily Nitrogen (at 30-0-4), so that is fine.

Should there be rain or no rain in the forecast after this is down?

Definitely, definitely read the label.
But, in general you want to water granular Dimension in with about half an inch. You must also water the fertilizer in or it can burn your grass. But again, read the label.
It is fine to have a light rain after applying a PreM, but heavy downpours are to be avoided. It can take a bit of strategizing.

To minimize risk, plan on applying when you have a stretch of sunny weather. That also means plan on watering the product in your soil.

 

[social port]

Also, the label will likely recommend that you use a 'cross pattern' when applying the product. If your not a visual thinker (like me), imagine mowing in rows, finishing, and then mowing again from the side (you'll form some perpendicular lines along the way).
Using this application pattern helps to minimize over-application in one area and also increases breadth of product coverage.

I should also emphasize that I think you will be fine regardless of which product you use: PreM alone vs PreM plus fertilizer. And I agree with others that Dimension/Dithiopyr is a fine choice for a PreM.

 

[Green]

Note Green's suggestions here:

If you have Ace hardware, their own brand of step 1 with weed prevention (pre-emergent herbicide with Dimension) is probably better than Scotts' step 1 (which has Pendimethalin and usually doesn't last as long in the soil)

It looks like Ace Hardware has two versions; to get a bag with dimension, you'll need to get Ace 'Green Turf' on the label (in small print, the active ingredient will read 'dithiopyr' -- that's what you want. Dithiopyr=Dimension). That product is cut with fertilizer, but it is primarily Nitrogen (at 30-0-4), so that is fine.

@Reaper: Definitely not too late to apply a Pre-M. Some weeds might have sneaked past you, but most of them haven't yet.

If you already have the Scotts Step 1 with Pendimethalin and want to use that and don't have time to do an exchange, you can apply it at 1.5 lbs for every 1,000 square feet of grass now, and then follow-up with the Dimension at the same application rate (from Ace Hardware or Home Depot, whichever is closest to you) in mid June...doing it this way is a viable option. The Dimension product to look for at Home Depot is Lesco 19-0-7, and comes in a 50-lb bag. I would buy it ahead of time though, as they sell out after May sometimes.

If you decide to do the exchange and use the Dimension instead of the Scotts the first time, I would still do the same thing...1.5 lbs to every thousand square feet now, and then again in mid June at the same rate.

Keep it simple!

Also, the label will likely recommend that you use a 'cross pattern' when applying the product. If your not a visual thinker (like me), imagine mowing in rows, finishing, and then mowing again from the side (you'll form some perpendicular lines along the way).
Using this application pattern helps to minimize over-application in one area and also increases breadth of product coverage.

And, definitely do this, as @social port recommends, with each application. Get a cheap food or garden scale, weigh out half the amount you need, and apply it all in one direction, making sure that on each pass, the furthest granules that get thrown out of the spreader hit your wheel track from the previous pass. Then do the same with the second set of passes, but in the opposite direction.

For example, if you're doing 1,000 square feet of grass at 1.5 lb/M rate as mentioned above, weigh out 1.5/2= 0.75 lb of product, and apply it over the whole area, making passes from East to West or whatever. Then weigh out another 0.75 lb, and make passes in the perpendicular direction. In the end, you'll have made a checkerboard-like pattern with your spreader using the right amounts, and will be assured of even coverage.

 

[GrassDaddy]

Thanks glenmonte. I'm in Rhode Island.

Excuse my ignorance, but what exactly is a pre-emergent? Is it just the Step 1 of the Scotts process?

Perfect time to apply in RI. I'm in South County!

 

[Reaper]

Thanks for all the help.

I think I'm just gonna go pick up a bag of Scott's Step 1 and put that down. And then follow with Steps 3/4 later on. With the baby I just need the quickest and easiest process right now. As she gets older and I get more free time I will invest more time in the lawn.