Thought on this program

The plan just seemed to prescribe things that may really be "as needed" type of applications.

Use a Bermuda maintenance calendar from Auburn, UGA, Clemson, etc.

Most are going to suggest a pre emergent in February or March for summer annuals like crabgrass. Another application of pre-emergent in the fall for winter annuals, such as poa annua.

Most suggest avoiding any post emergents during spring green up. Apply between 0.5 and 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 sqft per month.

Use fungicide and insecticide as needed.

Get a soil test every few years to make sure pH is good.

Use Celsius to control almost everything else in terms of weeds. If it's a sedge, certainty or monument. If that doesn't control it, glyphosate.

In my opinion, no need for weed and feed products.

If you want to do cheap broad cast applications, 2,4-D with a hose end sprayer when it isn't hot will go along way towards controlling broad leaf weeds.

Stro3579 said:

Movingshrub said:

If you are getting monument or katana, you don't need certainity.

All three will kill sedges.

Katana and monument are better on poa annua than certainty.

You may be able to get a powdered version of simazine.

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what program are you using and what chemicals do you have? I have bermuda also in alabama

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Pre-em
Fall - Prodiamine, Simazine, Monument
Spring - Prodiamine

Post-em
Celsius, Certainty, brush on glyphosate

In terms of other chemicals on-hand, these are for unique situations.
Image (imazaquin) which I used for wild onion and wild garlic.
Fusilade (fluazifop) for controlling grass in flower bed and renovation
Triclopyr for some nandinas that wouldn't die and for renovation
Tenactiy for renovation and will be used when I have PGR
Crossbow (2,4-d and triclopyr) bunch of english ivy when I bought the house

I think minimum you're looking at prodiamine pre-em, and then a post-em of Celsius for hot weather, maybe a 3-way or something like Speedzone for the rest of the season, and then something to control sedges, whether that's Certanity, Monument, Katanta, Sedgehammer, etc.

It all depends on your expectations, budget, and potentially your outlook on weed resistance. I wanted to use multiple MOAs for poa control, to help avoid contributing to resistance, hence three products that all work differently to kill poa.

Hey man, there's no rush to this so lets be deliberate and make sure we get a plan that suits your need.

Prodiamine and dithiopyr both work in similar ways. Both are designed to impair the rooting of anything that germinates. Dithiopyr is generally a bit more expensive. I don't think you need both. Just pick one. I *think* you can put down prodiamine at rates, so you only have to apply twice a year.

Concerning simazine, I use Princep 4L. It comes in a 2.5 gal jug, which will probably last you ten years.

Blindside isn't a replacement for Celsius. Blindside is basically a mixture of Dismiss and Manor. Dismiss isn't ideal in hot weather. The main advantage of Celsius is that it CAN be used in the hottest parts of the summer; in fact, the hotter the better.

Katana isn't labeled for broadcast application. Both Site One and Domyown, are trying to sell you something. I'm not. I'll send you a photo of my own chem inventory if you want to show I put my money where my mouth is on these recommendations. Katana is kind of pricey as well.

@Greendoc has been involved on this thread so maybe he chimes in as well. Also, there's the bermuda triangle recommendation which is prodiamine pre-em, Celsius for broadleaf, certainty for sedges, and brushed on glyphosate for anything still alive.

Here is my suggestion for your pre-em plan.
Fall - Apply end of September
Prodiamine rate of 1lb per acre, which gives 5 months of control (1/2lb of prodiamine 65 WDG powder for your 1/2 acre yard)
Simazine - rate of 1 qt per acre (so, 1/2 qt for your 1/2 acre yard)
Optional monument - rate of 10 grams per acre (1ea 5 gram packet of monument for your 1/2 acre yard)

Spring - Apply between Valentines day and end of February
Prodiamine - Apply 1.5lb of per acre for 8 months of control (0.75lb of prodiamine 65 WDG powder for your 1/2 acre yard)
Optional Simazine - rate of 1 qt per acre (so, 1/2 qt for your yard)

Don't buy Blindside.
Don't buy Dismiss.
Don't buy Katana.
Take back either your prodiamine or dithiopyr; pick one, keep the other.
Take back the Momentum FX.
Buy some simazine/Princep 4L.
Considering buying some monument, but not required.
If you have a bunch of wild onions, three way, multiple times, or image.

Monumentum fx2 has triclopyr which can damage bermuda.

If you don't want to do Celsius, a basic three-way or speedzone will work, but, generally, they can't be used above 85F, meaning 85F for the next day or so, versus spaying at 9pm when it's 84F in the middle of the summer in Alabama.

1. Prodiamine (pre-em) $60 + Celsius (post-em) $100
2. Generic glyphosate (post-em) $20
3. Simazine/Princep (pre/post-em)$75 Lingers in the soil as pre-em but also can be used as post-em depending on the plant.
4. Image (Get the one with imazaquin, not atrazine) (Post-em) $25 - You can also use this for sedges.
5. Monument $230 (pre/post-em) Post-em that lingers in the soil.

Just for anyone else that reads
Barricade/Prodiamine, Princep 4L/Simazine, and Monument all have different modes of action. Poa Annua/ Annual bluegrass gives off a bunch of seeds, so anything that survives can lead to herbicide resistance. As a result, by using herbicides using different MOAs, if the poa is resistant to one type or is only maimed, hopefully the other MOA will kill it off.

For anyone who really wants to nerd out on poa - http://www.tennesseeturfgrassweeds.org/Pages/PoaDay.aspx