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Went to the local john deere landscapes and they had every product I would need for next year. They have prodiamine and a granular product with pre-emergent. Looking for feedback.
Thought on this program
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What exactly are you asking? I see no need for all those products. It's far more cost effective to spray herbicides than it is to spread them in a granular product.
Pick a proven Pre-M
Prodiamine
Dithiopyr
Oxadiazon
Indaziflam
Pick a proven Pre-M
Prodiamine
Dithiopyr
Oxadiazon
Indaziflam
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For post emergent I personally use Trifloxysulfuron-sodium(Monument 75WG) or MSMA or sulfentrazone(Dismiss) all depending on what I'm targeting
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I would not recommend their plan.95mmrenegade said:Went to the local john deere landscapes and they had every product I would need for next year. They have prodiamine and a granular product with pre-emergent. Looking for feedback.
Out of curiosity did they price that plan for you?
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I don't think it is a terrible program. I would probably use it more of a "suggestion" rather than a plan. You can supplement some of these products with a more cheaper generic version than offered by site one, yet still follow the same cadence. I like the fact that it is comprehensive and includes the insecticide, fungicide, and aeration schedules.
But, if it works for you, I say go for it.
But, if it works for you, I say go for it.
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I went in looking for pricing on the bermuda triangle, prodiamine, sedgehammer, tnex pgr and celicus wg. The pricing was surprisingly the same as online.
The guy said the granular with dimension o prodiamine was easier to apply and didnt need a spreader.
Have a spreader, 1 gallon pump sprayer goig to buy a 20v chapin and make a 40' sprayer.
The guy said the granular with dimension o prodiamine was easier to apply and didnt need a spreader.
Have a spreader, 1 gallon pump sprayer goig to buy a 20v chapin and make a 40' sprayer.
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50# lesco spreader was 250 which i thought was cheaper than online.
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95mmrenegade said:
That's a huge sprayerThat actually is a really good price. Make sure it's the model you want, and check out Lesco's website and compare models. If I took the Lesco for a spin before I got my Earthways spreader, I would have gone with the Lesco hands down.95mmrenegade said:
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40" lol
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The plan just seemed to prescribe things that may really be "as needed" type of applications.
Use a Bermuda maintenance calendar from Auburn, UGA, Clemson, etc.
Most are going to suggest a pre emergent in February or March for summer annuals like crabgrass. Another application of pre-emergent in the fall for winter annuals, such as poa annua.
Most suggest avoiding any post emergents during spring green up. Apply between 0.5 and 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 sqft per month.
Use fungicide and insecticide as needed.
Get a soil test every few years to make sure pH is good.
Use Celsius to control almost everything else in terms of weeds. If it's a sedge, certainty or monument. If that doesn't control it, glyphosate.
In my opinion, no need for weed and feed products.
If you want to do cheap broad cast applications, 2,4-D with a hose end sprayer when it isn't hot will go along way towards controlling broad leaf weeds.
Use a Bermuda maintenance calendar from Auburn, UGA, Clemson, etc.
Most are going to suggest a pre emergent in February or March for summer annuals like crabgrass. Another application of pre-emergent in the fall for winter annuals, such as poa annua.
Most suggest avoiding any post emergents during spring green up. Apply between 0.5 and 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 sqft per month.
Use fungicide and insecticide as needed.
Get a soil test every few years to make sure pH is good.
Use Celsius to control almost everything else in terms of weeds. If it's a sedge, certainty or monument. If that doesn't control it, glyphosate.
In my opinion, no need for weed and feed products.
If you want to do cheap broad cast applications, 2,4-D with a hose end sprayer when it isn't hot will go along way towards controlling broad leaf weeds.
What is the reason you use monument over celsius and certainty for your post emergence? I'm aboit to go buy all of my post/pre emergence.high leverage said:
Prodiamine
Princep 4L (cross coverage preemergent)
Celsius
certainty
Quinclorac/Monument/Katana (to kill some St Aug in my bermuda)
Any other suggestions? For longevity and effectiveness which form of the material would you get if available? Do you know if the Princep comes in any other form besides liquid? The smallest amount of this stuff is so damn much for my yard and I don't want it to go bad before I can use half of it.
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If you are getting monument or katana, you don't need certainity.
All three will kill sedges.
Katana and monument are better on poa annua than certainty.
You may be able to get a powdered version of simazine.
All three will kill sedges.
Katana and monument are better on poa annua than certainty.
You may be able to get a powdered version of simazine.
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Pre-emStro3579 said:
Fall - Prodiamine, Simazine, Monument
Spring - Prodiamine
Post-em
Celsius, Certainty, brush on glyphosate
In terms of other chemicals on-hand, these are for unique situations.
Image (imazaquin) which I used for wild onion and wild garlic.
Fusilade (fluazifop) for controlling grass in flower bed and renovation
Triclopyr for some nandinas that wouldn't die and for renovation
Tenactiy for renovation and will be used when I have PGR
Crossbow (2,4-d and triclopyr) bunch of english ivy when I bought the house
I think minimum you're looking at prodiamine pre-em, and then a post-em of Celsius for hot weather, maybe a 3-way or something like Speedzone for the rest of the season, and then something to control sedges, whether that's Certanity, Monument, Katanta, Sedgehammer, etc.
It all depends on your expectations, budget, and potentially your outlook on weed resistance. I wanted to use multiple MOAs for poa control, to help avoid contributing to resistance, hence three products that all work differently to kill poa.
Expectations are really high. I have Turf Dr doing my yard at this time. but plan on canceling them this month. I purchasedMovingshrub said:
Prodiame (Pre Emergent)
Dithiopyr 40 WSB (Pre emergent)
Monumentum FX2 ( would this be consider a post emergent)
2-4-D ( Post emergent ?)
MSMA (dallas grass and crabgrass killer)
Glyphosate (round up)
Let me know if I am correct on the above.
I just got the prodiame and dithiopyr because I plan to treat in sept. I plan to use the prodiame in sept, Dithiopyr in Nov. Then spring go back to Prodiame. Is this the correct process?
so I will need to get Simazine and Monument for sept application?
whatever weeds the pre emergents dont prevent. Use Celsius and Certainty?
I also get onions in my yard every year. Is the Image (imazaquin) the only thing that will take care of that?
Sorry Im all over the place. got alot of questions.
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You don't need both prodiamine and dithiopyr. They work similarly.
If you spray prodiamine, monument, and simazine, I would expect almost no weeds over winter but some are always possible. Considering how few of them I had I usually just hand pulled them. It would've been more trouble to mix up something to spray.
I'm not sure how friendly momentum is to Bermuda grass considering the triclopyr. You are correct on your pre em and post em labeling
If you spray prodiamine, monument, and simazine, I would expect almost no weeds over winter but some are always possible. Considering how few of them I had I usually just hand pulled them. It would've been more trouble to mix up something to spray.
I'm not sure how friendly momentum is to Bermuda grass considering the triclopyr. You are correct on your pre em and post em labeling
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If you go with the prodiamine, simazine, monument app, spray it all before Halloween. Put enough prodiamine to get you through February. In February 2019, apply enough prodiamine to get you to the fall app or split it into two app; spring and summer.
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