[Gabrielg1002]

I recently, within 2 weeks, just aerated my lawn and laid down some Milos but my lawn isn't thick. I also laid down Milos about 4 weeks prior. What else can I do to help this along? I'm in San Antonio, TX. Thank you in advance.

 

[PHXCobra]

Edited to add photos

Water. Gotta keep it watered. Mine looked like crap, thin, some patchy bare spots, and not very dark. Gave it more water, some fertilizer, and it took off. Most of my bare spots are completely full now and I can actually see some spots where the sprinklers weren't hitting as well as the others.

Photos in order. I dethatched and aerated in March. Pardon the children playing in sprinklers and water guns.

 

[w0lfe]

I recently, within 2 weeks, just aerated my lawn and laid down some Milos but my lawn isn't thick. I also laid down Milos about 4 weeks prior. What else can I do to help this along? I'm in San Antonio, TX. Thank you in advance.

Has it been thicker in previous years?

 

[Gabrielg1002]

Cobra- how often do you water? I wanted once a week for about 10 minutes a zone.

W0lfe- yes it has been thick. We moved into this house about 2 years ago and it was thick when we moved in.

Excuse my daughter walking in the shot

 

[PHXCobra]

That's not near enough water unless your sprinklers put out a ton or gpm. Our climates are similar (although you have more humidity and a little more rain). I water 3-4 times per week at 10 minutes per zone. Not sure exactly how much water that is but what you are doing is less than what I was doing trying to kill my winter rye via water stress.

 

[w0lfe]

I agree. Definitely try adding some high nitrogen fertilizer and then put the water to it. You need to put down at least an inch of water per week, preferably in 1 or 2 waters per week. Also it might not hurt to have a soil test conducted

 

[Gabrielg1002]

Well, currently San Antonio is under water restrictions so I can only water once a week but I guess I'll Up it to 15 minutes in the morning and in the evening.

 

[w0lfe]

Well, currently San Antonio is under water restrictions so I can only water once a week but I guess I'll Up it to 15 minutes in the morning and in the evening.

If you can, 30 minutes in the morning would be better (depending on how much that puts out). You don't want to leave your blades of grass wet over night, you really start risking fungus and disease.

 

[Gabrielg1002]

So even though I threw out a slow release fertilizer in Melorganite, I should use a high nitrogen fertilizer also? I have a 28-3-10 available to hit it ASAP.

 

[PHXCobra]

Absolutely. Put it down and water it in immediately after so ideally it would be the same day before you water.

 

[Gabrielg1002]

Will do that today and post pictures of either a great green lawn or a burnt to crap lawn Hahahaha thank you guys for all of your help

 

[w0lfe]

So even though I threw out a slow release fertilizer in Melorganite, I should use a high nitrogen fertilizer also? I have a 28-3-10 available to hit it ASAP.

Yes, absolutely. And water it in well

 

[Gabrielg1002]

Thank you all.

 

[raldridge2315]

You need to put tuna fish cans in each zone to measure how much water you are actually putting down in that time. Then adjust your time so that you get 1" per week.

 

[Greendoc]

You need to put tuna fish cans in each zone to measure how much water you are actually putting down in that time. Then adjust your time so that you get 1" per week.

That works. I also consider the soil texture and climate conditions when figuring out how much water can and should be given. Sandy soils, it is a waste to try to put down an inch only once a week. In more clay soils, an inch+ is where I would be headed. For the longest time, I maintained a Bermuda lawn during a decade of drought by applying an inch+ of water once a week. This is on clay soil, fairly high humidity, and temperatures reaching a maximum of 95. I know requirements are different if the soil is different, humidity is lower, and temperatures are higher.

 

[Gabrielg1002]

I believe my soil does have clay and I was having an alge problem due to proper drainage so I aerated last Friday. Still seems as though some of the soil is super compact. I've read that I need to water in spurts like 15 minutes then let it dry a little bit and then hit it with another 15 minutes. I'm just lost. Somethings I read say water a ton and some say just do an inch once a week. I just want my yard to look like a golf course, is that too much to ask? Temps in San Antonio will hit triple digits later this week so what should I do?

 

[Greendoc]

The sprinklers your little ones are running through are throughout the lawn, yes? I recognize those as regular pop up sprinklers. At a normal spacing and arrangement, they put down an inch of water in 30 minutes. You might need to apply 1.5 inches because it is Texas. If I were having trouble with water penetration, timing would look like 10 minutes on, an hour off, 10 on, and another hour off followed by 10 minutes, another hour to soak in and then the final 15 minutes.

Clay soil that has a compaction/water penetration problem is a candidate for a soil test(pH, Calcium, Magnesium, Sodium levels), and possible usage of a soluble/sprayable Humic formula. The Humic can help re arrange the soil so it is less likely to pack together. A problem in my area is alkaline soil that is the texture of grease when it is wet and hard as a brick when dry. Usage of humic products has helped those soils to not be like grease when wet and to crumble when dry.

 

[MatthewinGA]

Hit it with some lime or gypsum to soften up that soil and keep up the Milorganite. Both of those will help with drought stress and nutrition uptake.
The summer with also kick it in high gear and fill in.

My goal here in Atlanta (little rain) is to never have to water as I haven't the past 2 years.

 

[Spammage]

@Gabrielg1002 - @Greendoc is correct. The soil from the Gulf to DFW is very alkaline clay. You are near the edge of that, but still in it. A wetting agent can help with water penetration in the short term, but the humic additions will help to alter the soil structure over time. Do not add lime (you live on a limestone bed). Gypsum might help drainage, but wetting agents and humic acid are better.

 

[Greendoc]

Gypsum only helps if you are dealing with acidic soil that happens to be Sodium contaminated. Otherwise, the Gypsum will sit in a layer on the ground surface and take decades to penetrate downward. I have seen and dealt with alkaline clay where amendment with Gypsum was attempted. Wasted work. The only thing to show for it was elevated Calcium levels and the same grease like texture. Other worthy amendments are Citric Acid applied at 2 lb per 1000 sq ft per month. That will attack and break down the Calcium and Magnesium Carbonate responsible for hardening the soil.