[TulsaFan]

I bought a Chapin 97900 24V Push Sprayer last fall. I assembled it and then buried it under some cardboard to prevent the wife from finding another of my "unneeded toys". Needless to say, she found it and now it is safe for it's first appearance on the lawn.

Any recommendations on chemicals I need to buy for zoysia/bermuda other than listed below? Any other suggested vendors?

Pre: Barricade (Prodiamine) or Dimension (Dithiopyr)
Post: Celsius and Certainty
Fungicide: Clorothalanil and Tebuconazole
Insects: Talstar
Fertilizer: ? (or should I continue to use Milorganite in my broadcast spreader)
PGR: ?

Vendors: www.domyown.com

Thanks in advance!!! I am very grateful for having access to the knowledge base of this site!!!

 

[Mightyquinn]

I posted THIS earlier about the PGR.

You might also want to check out Lawn and Pest Control Supply

DoMyOwnLawn

Pestrong

It also wouldn't hurt to check out your local SiteOne or any other Landscape supply stores you might have. You might be able to find a better price since you won't be paying for shipping or it won't be factored into the cost of the product already.

 

[high leverage]

If I was in your position and completely starting new on my herbicide stash I would purchase whats listed below. Of course this depends on your budget and what weeds you have or seen in the past. And I also now do this for a living so I have to have a wide variety available.

I can tell you this the idea that the Bermuda Triangle(Celsius, Certainty, Prodiamine) approach will kill everything under the sun is naive. There are too many weeds that these herbicide fall short in controlling.

Pre-m: Specticle Flo (Indaziflam) - it has a different mode of action than Prodiamine or Dithiopyr. There are weeds that have become resistant to both Prodiamine and Dithiopyr. Poa Annua is one that has developed some resistance.

Post:
Monument or sulfentrazone
Celcius
Revolver
MSM
Ester Three-way and Amine three-way
Quinclorac
MSMA = Dallisgrass killer

 

[Mightyquinn]

If I was in your position and completely starting new on my herbicide stash I would purchase whats listed below. Of course this depends on your budget and what weeds you have or seen in the past. And I also now do this for a living so I have to have a wide variety available.

I can tell you this the idea that the Bermuda Triangle(Celsius, Certainty, Prodiamine) approach will kill everything under the sun is naive. There are too many weeds that these herbicide fall short in controlling.

Pre-m: Specticle Flo (Indaziflam) - it has a different mode of action than Prodiamine or Dithiopyr. There are weeds that have become resistant to both Prodiamine and Dithiopyr. Poa Annua is one that has developed some resistance.

Post:
Monument or sulfentrazone
Celcius
Revolver
MSM
Ester Three-way and Amine three-way
Quinclorac
MSMA = Dallisgrass killer

Are you recommending a homeowner invest in over $1,000 in herbicides just to take care of weeds?

 

[high leverage]

Sure, you'll be good for the next decade and can control anything under the sun. I also recommend you get your applicators license for a $100 and $50 for the test. That way when your neighbors and family ask how you keep your lawn looking so good you can offer your services and easily recoup the cost of the initial investment.

I'll say this again the idea that the Bermuda Triangle is all you need is very naive. If Celcius and Certainty were the end all be all, every squirt and fert company in the southern/ warm season region would exclusive use them. However that simply is not reality.

 

[dfw_pilot]

I'll say this again the idea that the Bermuda Triangle is all you need is very naive.

This is twice now you've called me out as naive. I thought I had kept my naïveté a secret, but it looks like you've blown my cover!

Will the Bermuda Triangle (plus Glyphosate) kill everything under the sun? Maybe not. Are there some examples of serious weeds that it won't cover? If there are, I haven't encountered any. The point of good cultural practices is not to turn your lawn into a chemical spray target and spend $1,000's. The aim is to knock down 99% of the weed pressure and grab the last few weeds by hand pulling or crowd them out with healthy grass.

The homeowner will have some serious diminishing returns spending so much on every eventuality like a fertilizer company.

There is profundity in simplicity. Start with the Triangle, and if you don't need anything else, you just saved $800. If you encounter a troublesome weed, cross that bridge when you get there.

Finally, some of the showcase lawns here have used the Bermuda Triangle or less, proving that buying lots of "stuff" isn't always necessary. Don't buy herbicides in search of a use, buy them as needed.

 

[high leverage]

I'll say this again the idea that the Bermuda Triangle is all you need is very naive.

This is twice now you've called me out as naive. I thought I had kept my naïveté a secret, but it looks like you've blown my cover!

Will the Bermuda Triangle (plus Glyphosate) kill everything under the sun? Maybe not. Are there some examples of serious weeds that it won't cover? If there are, I haven't encountered any. The point of good cultural practices is not to turn your lawn into a chemical spray target and spend $1,000's. The aim is to knock down 99% of the weed pressure and grab the last few weeds by hand pulling or crowd them out with healthy grass.

The homeowner will have some serious diminishing returns spending so much on every eventuality like a fertilizer company.

There is profundity in simplicity. Start with the Triangle, and if you don't need anything else, you just saved $800. If you encounter a troublesome weed, cross that bridge when you get there.

Finally, some of the showcase lawns here have used the Bermuda Triangle or less, proving that buying lots of "stuff" isn't always necessary. Don't buy herbicides in search of a use, buy them as needed.

Fair enough. And meant no disrespect. I stated in my pervious post that I now do this for a living. I can't make a living and provide weed free lawns with just Celcius, Certainty, and Glyphosate. So when I hear "all you need is the triangle" I think new guys expect it to handle everything. I just like to point out this is not reality.

 

[dfw_pilot]

So when I hear "all you need is the triangle" I think new guys expect it to handle everything. I just like to point out this is not reality.

It's been my reality for the last several years. You have to realize that there is quite a bit of daylight between "all you need" and "covers everything." Contractors are different, but for the homeowner, no one needs to spend $1,000 on weed control. A skid steer rental or RoundUp plus new sod doesn't cost that much. So I tell the "new guys" that it is all you need. For the small percentage of situations where it may not work (or work fast enough) then lets have them talk about it. This is a forum, after all.

 

[Movingshrub]

I purchased one of the Chapin 24v sprayers October 2017 (my wife even picked it up from the store for me!) so I haven't used it during prime growing season. I used it to spray my winter pre-ems, plan to spray my spring pre-ems soon, and plan to use it to spray PGRs. I am undecided whether I want to use it for spraying bifenthrin or imidacloprid.

First off - pesticides help but don't do all the work. I would argue that the ideal condition is to have such a lush and robust turf that it can fight off weeds and pests on its own or with minimal help.

Second - This may not apply to everyone but I think there's a progression of lawn-nerdiness/passion. I do believe that the warm-season 'bermuda' triangle will cover a lot and is a great starting point. The home owner can address problematic weeds as they arise.

I started off just using a hose end sprayer of weed-b-gon three way, glyphosate, and spreading granular fertilizer. Next came learning about granular pre-emergent. Then I discovered ATY and then this forum, which lead to learning about Celsius and Certainty.

Minimum - Glyphosate for spot application, prodiamine, and either a three-way amine or Celsius.

Next step (Sedge and Poa Annua) Certainty, Katana, Revolver, or Monument. Certainty is the lowest cost per app the last time I checked. I have Certainty for sedges and also did a broadcast app of Monument to control poa annua. My understanding is that Monument is the most effective on poa and Certanity is the least effective. I haven't used Katana or Revolver but have been told they are more effective than Certainty. I'd think Katana would be the optimal sweet spot in terms of effectiveness and considering cost per app. I don't think it plays well with St Aug though. @high leverage may chime in with his $0.02 on this.

Nerd out level + $$$ = Rotating between methods of action on both your pre-and post herbicide to discourage herbicide resistance

pre/post (These are just examples, not a particular suggestion)
year 1 prodiamine (group 3 mitosis inhibitors) + 3-way (Group 4 synthetic auxin)
year 2 specticle (group 21 cellulose inhibitors) + hand brush glyphosate for all weeds (Group 9)
year 3 simazine (group 5 Photosystem II Inhibitors) + Celsius (Group 2 ALS + Group 4 synthetic auxin)
year 4 Oxadiazon (group 14 protox inhibitor) + Finale (Group 10 Glutamine Synthetase Inhibitors)

With that all being said here is my plan to spray:
Winter - Prodiamine, Simazine, and Monument (I want ALL the poa annua to die.)
Spring - Prodiamine and Simazine (Controlling spring flush of poa and getting ready for summer annuals)
Summer - Spot spray Celisus, broadcast spray T-nex PGR, hand-brush glyphosate, broadcast spray three-way if broadleaf weeds really become an issue