[Gorgonzola17]

My buddy sent me the following article regarding tall fescue maintenance in North Carolina.

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/tall-fescue-lawn-maintenance-calendar

I have a question in regard to fertilization. It says not to fertilize after march 15th. Is that because of the hot humid summers?? Does that mean synthetic fertilizers only?? I want to put Milorganite down several times this year. Should I not be doing that??

 

[Green]

Yes, it's due to disease being more prevalent with more days and nights that are humid and nights that are warmer, versus further North, where we get a fewer number of humid days and nights that average a few degrees cooler.

I'd suggest you check out these 2 youtube channels for in depth information and strategies that are relevant to Tall Fescue:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKNqbN3YW9zGRvyxc9D901A

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDxIJ2o0slIc3jDW2ETODPg (from NC; lots of info for your area specifically)

Edit: Also check out this thread for Fall strategy: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1510

 

[g-man]

I read thru this in the past and I think I linked to it once. I dont live in a transition zone, and I could not find a ton of info in the past. The following is just my opinion.

Pushing fertilizer (synthetic or organic) when the lawn is in heat stress causes more problems than benefit. This forces the lawn to produce more top growth when it is trying to survive. If you have irrigation with good coverage, you might be able to push it a bit more than without it. I personally change to lower qty nitrogen and more frequent once temps approach 90F. I then stop once the temps are above 90F.

One benefit that you normally have (not this cold year) is that your lawn doesnt really go dormant, so you could/should still apply nitrogen in the Winter (they recommend a pound in February).

 

[scz71864]

I also wouldn't take that advice on mowing height. I only mow at 3.5 inches twice a year. The first cut in spring to stimulate growth and once right before aeration. Otherwise I'm at 4inches.

 

[g-man]

@scz71864 lowering the hoc as the lawn transitions into fall does help with fungual issues. Once the high heat of summer reduces, the extra height makes the lawn retain more moisture. A lowering allows it to dry faster and be less of a petri dish. I know that folks in the transition zone have more fungus challenges than cool season zone.

 

[Gorgonzola17]

@scz71864 lowering the hoc as the lawn transitions into fall does help with fungual issues. Once the high heat of summer reduces, the extra height makes the lawn retain more moisture. A lowering allows it to dry faster and be less of a petri dish. I know that folks in the transition zone have more fungus challenges than cool season zone.

I ran into some fungal issues last season so I am going to be treating the lawn with fungicide this year to help control it. It is a double edged sword in the summer here. If you leave the lawn too high to help retain water, you raise the risk of fungal issues and if you cut it too short the lawn will burn. It we much easier maintaining fescue in long island :lol:

 

[rockinmylawn]

@scz71864 lowering the hoc as the lawn transitions into fall does help with fungual issues. Once the high heat of summer reduces, the extra height makes the lawn retain more moisture. A lowering allows it to dry faster and be less of a petri dish. I know that folks in the transition zone have more fungus challenges than cool season zone.

First post here on the board - so don't want to be controversial :? - but I did noticed that last fall when I scalped my lawn in anticipation of doing these 3 things: overseeding + winterization with 46-0-0 Urea + keeping a short turf to deal with the leaves - it caused a problem this spring so far - uneven growth & dormancy still many spots.
So it appears - at least for my lawn - that the short cut made the grass more susceptible to the harsh temps & winds of the winter & made my lawn lag vs. my neighbors.

 

[g-man]

First post here on the board - so don't want to be controversial :? - but I did noticed that last fall when I scalped my lawn in anticipation of doing these 3 things: overseeding + winterization with 46-0-0 Urea + keeping a short turf to deal with the leaves - it caused a problem this spring so far - uneven growth & dormancy still many spots.
So it appears - at least for my lawn - that the short cut made the grass more susceptible to the harsh temps & winds of the winter & made my lawn lag vs. my neighbors.

Welcome to TLF. I think I've seen your post on ATY.

We like the respectful exchange of ideas and experiences. So, nothing controversial in sharing your experience. How low did you go and how did you transitioned into it? Do you want to share a picture?

 

[thegrassfactor]

My buddy sent me the following article regarding tall fescue maintenance in North Carolina.

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/tall-fescue-lawn-maintenance-calendar

I have a question in regard to fertilization. It says not to fertilize after march 15th. Is that because of the hot humid summers?? Does that mean synthetic fertilizers only?? I want to put Milorganite down several times this year. Should I not be doing that??

I follows this to a T one year on 3 lawns. They looked like complete and total garbage. @g-man nailed it on the head in regards to timing. Drop your rates significantly, up your frequency.

In fact, I've applied half the fert I normally have over the last 6 months, changed N sources, and my lawns are performing better than they ever have.

My view on fertilization is evolving rapidly. It's not the amount of N, it's the function of N.

 

[rockinmylawn]

First post here on the board - so don't want to be controversial :? - but I did noticed that last fall when I scalped my lawn in anticipation of doing these 3 things: overseeding + winterization with 46-0-0 Urea + keeping a short turf to deal with the leaves - it caused a problem this spring so far - uneven growth & dormancy still many spots.
So it appears - at least for my lawn - that the short cut made the grass more susceptible to the harsh temps & winds of the winter & made my lawn lag vs. my neighbors.

Welcome to TLF. I think I've seen your post on ATY.

We like the respectful exchange of ideas and experiences. So, nothing controversial in sharing your experience. How low did you go and how did you transitioned into it? Do you want to share a picture?

Hi @g-man again!

Such a fresh breadth of air over here.
Back on topic - I went down to about 2.5".
Overseeded in September & added bag rate of Milo - then let it grow with no mowing for month of September.
Probably got as high as 6".
October: began cutting each week ½ a notch lowered on the mower till November which stabilized @ 2.0".
December winterized with urea 46-0-0. Stopped cutting around 2nd week of December when no growth was showing.
Coincided with leave raking through early January.
Freeze spell latter half of January into first half February.

Sorry no available picture this hour of the night. Too dark. Promise tomorrow.
Maybe it's a spring flush thing but seems every year I'm late to the party while everyone is green & lush with their chem lawns.

Pics added:

 

[Gorgonzola17]

My buddy sent me the following article regarding tall fescue maintenance in North Carolina.

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/tall-fescue-lawn-maintenance-calendar

I have a question in regard to fertilization. It says not to fertilize after march 15th. Is that because of the hot humid summers?? Does that mean synthetic fertilizers only?? I want to put Milorganite down several times this year. Should I not be doing that??

I follows this to a T one year on 3 lawns. They looked like complete and total garbage. @g-man nailed it on the head in regards to timing. Drop your rates significantly, up your frequency.

In fact, I've applied half the fert I normally have over the last 6 months, changed N sources, and my lawns are performing better than they ever have.

My view on fertilization is evolving rapidly. It's not the amount of N, it's the function of N.

@thegrassfactor Thanks for the recommendation. On Feb. 23rd I did a full application of Milorganite. What is your recommendation for Nitrogen fertilizer, and at what rate would you apply?? Also, how often do you think I should fertilize if I am only doing half rate apps??

Also, I got my soil test back the other day from Soil Savvy. Everything looked pretty good, except for my Potassium was very low. I am going to see if I can get some Sulfate of Potash today from one of our local fertilizer stores to help with that. My Nitrogen was a little low, but nothing too alarming. My phosphorus was off the charts. Should I be concerned about that??

 

[kevreh]

My buddy sent me the following article regarding tall fescue maintenance in North Carolina.

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/tall-fescue-lawn-maintenance-calendar

I have a question in regard to fertilization. It says not to fertilize after march 15th. Is that because of the hot humid summers?? Does that mean synthetic fertilizers only?? I want to put Milorganite down several times this year. Should I not be doing that??

I follows this to a T one year on 3 lawns. They looked like complete and total garbage. @g-man nailed it on the head in regards to timing. Drop your rates significantly, up your frequency.

In fact, I've applied half the fert I normally have over the last 6 months, changed N sources, and my lawns are performing better than they ever have.

My view on fertilization is evolving rapidly. It's not the amount of N, it's the function of N.

Grassfactor-

Watch your videos, cool to see you post here. When you say you drop your rates, how little N, like 1/3 or 1/2 lb of N at a time? And being in TN, when do you fertilize up to....late may? Mid June? Never?

Isn't "less N more frequently" what golf courses do with foliar applications of N?

 

[kevreh]

My buddy sent me the following article regarding tall fescue maintenance in North Carolina.

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/tall-fescue-lawn-maintenance-calendar

I have a question in regard to fertilization. It says not to fertilize after march 15th. Is that because of the hot humid summers?? Does that mean synthetic fertilizers only?? I want to put Milorganite down several times this year. Should I not be doing that??

I follows this to a T one year on 3 lawns. They looked like complete and total garbage. @g-man nailed it on the head in regards to timing. Drop your rates significantly, up your frequency.

In fact, I've applied half the fert I normally have over the last 6 months, changed N sources, and my lawns are performing better than they ever have.

My view on fertilization is evolving rapidly. It's not the amount of N, it's the function of N.

@thegrassfactor Thanks for the recommendation. On Feb. 23rd I did a full application of Milorganite. What is your recommendation for Nitrogen fertilizer, and at what rate would you apply?? Also, how often do you think I should fertilize if I am only doing half rate apps??

Also, I got my soil test back the other day from Soil Savvy. Everything looked pretty good, except for my Potassium was very low. I am going to see if I can get some Sulfate of Potash today from one of our local fertilizer stores to help with that. My Nitrogen was a little low, but nothing too alarming. My phosphorus was off the charts. Should I be concerned about that??

I think with the weird temperature shifts we've had your lawn looks normal. Are you sure you don't have something like kbg or zoysia in there, which will take longer to come out of dormancy?

I dropped a half lb of N a couple weeks ago, and it helps. It's probably too cool for milo to really be processed by the microherd at this time.

In terms of how often, depends on the rate of N and your total N goals. For example I plan to drop about a pound of N with UMAX in it. Already did a half lb and will do another in late April. OTOH if I was dropping pure urea I might have done 3x 1/3lb apps instead, spread out about 2-3 weeks since it's faster release. So consider the total N used and the type of N.