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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Basically nothing changes haha.. WIth it "disengaged" it is still driving the drive pulleys. With it "engaged" nothing really changes and it doesn't ever engage fully. I **can** stop it with my hands.

I just dropped it off Reel Works. Prob be around $100 to set it all up for me. Save me some time.

I'll update you on that one when they get back to me.

For the other - I need a motor mounting plate as this one is bent.

The link Ware sent has a lot of parts, but not that one haha. Any ideas?

EDIT: Ware's link has it
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Gah this is frustrating, went through signing up on the site you mentioned Ware, and found all the parts I needed. In the end, says the dealer near me does not support ordering online or something.

Here's message I got.


R&R doesn't show the motor base I need either. They just have rollers and bed knife, etc. Few things like that.

Never had anythign JD before, I now see why it's difficult to get parts.

Here's what I need.

 
R&R won't stock the specialty parts for JD - look there for "consumable" parts like belts, bedknife, etc.

Is the JD dealer near you a "golf dealer"? Not all JD dealerships are equal. You'll have to find the closest one that sells JD golf equipment to get those parts. FWIW, the closest one to me is in Stillwater, OK (200 miles away). They will ship/drop ship though.
 
Go check out this JD thread. It list where to buy parts from. JD mowers. I also posted info on how to get the technical manual and some cross reference parts.

Now that you have the part number, google search for it. You might find a use one on ebay. Pete1313 pointed me to this website: www.greenfarmparts.com They offer free shipping and it is the same store I buy stuff from (5miles from my house).

Here is your part: https://www.greenfarmparts.com/SearchResults.asp?search=AMT2839
 
Also, I think I mentioned this but be sure and read the JD reel mower thread for great resources like...

g-man said:
I found this website with a lot of the technical manuals for JD mowers in pdf format all in one easy to find table. There is other info in the website like part cross-reference.

http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual
g-man said:
I found this pdf with a cross reference of JD parts to standard bearings part numbers. In some cases it is a significant saving, on others the JD price is cheaper. Some of these you could read the bearing number printed on the part after you take it out and clean it, but using this list allows to order the part ahead of time.

http://www.techsales-golfcoursedivision.com/product-price-guide-14.pdf
Pete1313 said:
I use greenfarmparts.com to get my JD parts. good prices, quick shipping.
Leverage the insight of those who have come before you. :thumbup:
 
Congrats on your new mowers! Regarding the issue with the drive always engaged, did you try adjusting the drive belt tension? There is a fine adjustment that involves adjusting the cable but is most likely not the issue. Sounds like you need to do the coarse belt adjustment procedure which involves loosening the engine mounting bolts and sliding the engine to loosen the belt to specification.

http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMTCU37245_19/?tM=

Check out section 50 and click on
Drive Belt Tension Check and Adjustment
Owners manual is for a SL, but should be identical to the B
 
And here is the owners manual for your 260B.

http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMMT7384_K5/Output/Index.html?tM=HO
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Great find!! I just realized what the problem is. I noticed the pulley on the crank of the motor looked new. I also noticed I had an old pulley in a bucket he gave me. After looking at the instructions on the manual page you sent, it looks like he put a smaller pulley on the crank to try and change the speed of the mower. No wonder it's a complete mess!!!

The belts are nowhere near the "belt guide" and in the manual they're almost touching. All makes sense now. I need to go to Reel Works tomorrow and show my findings!!

Thanks a ton! I knew something wasn't right!
 
No problem, here to help! Whether you leave the new pulley on, or replace it with the old, I'm almost certain the coarse adjustment should fix the issue.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Just double checked the other mower, bingo! Thanks again for posting that, those pics made me realize!!

I noticed the key-way in the pulley in the bucket and shaft size fits that HP motor typically. Pulley on the crank is only thing that looks brand new. He was trying to slow down the travel speed of the mower. Think of a mountain bike, smaller sprocket upfront on pedals is easier to pedal yields slower speed. Larger is harder to pedal yields higher speed. This is why nothing lines up! BINGO!

It would have never worked correctly with the smaller pulley he put on. Belt guide is WAY too far from ever keeping them down on the pulleys.

Sorry for the redundancy, it all just clicked!!

I'd have never figured this out without seeing that old pulley and your link to the manual with pics!
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Pete1313 said:
No problem, here to help! Whether you leave the new pulley on, or replace it with the old, I'm almost certain the coarse adjustment should fix the issue.
I tried that earlier, both ways and several in between. Al good now, I'm 99% sure what I posted above will correct this.

I'll update tomorrow after trying.
 
Strange that whoever had it before would want to slow it down even more with a smaller pulley. I felt like my old 220SL was really slow when on low throttle and couldn't imagine anyone wanting it to go slower, unless there was a carb issue and wouldn't run on low throttle... but a carb fix would be easier then messing with the pulleys. Clip rate is fixed to drum speed by the gearbox and sprockets in the side cover so changing that pulley wouldn't affect that... sorry, just theorizing why anyone would mess with the pulleys. Glad you figured out the issue!
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Pete1313 said:
Strange that whoever had it before would want to slow it down even more with a smaller pulley. I felt like my old 220SL was really slow when on low throttle and couldn't imagine anyone wanting it to go slower, unless there was a carb issue and wouldn't run on low throttle... but a carb fix would be easier then messing with the pulleys. Clip rate is fixed to drum speed by the gearbox and sprockets in the side cover so changing that pulley wouldn't affect that... sorry, just theorizing why anyone would mess with the pulleys. Glad you figured out the issue!
I know, who knows lol! Glad I was able to piece this together though!
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
ALright so I should have one of the 260's up and running today ready to cut! Thing is, I am unsure about whether to keep my TruCut or switch to one of these! I know it's a better mower and I know it'll cut even better than the Tru Cut but ai have two main concerns.

In most spots, my yard is lower than the driveway/sidewalk - will this be an issue as I obviously do not want to hit concrete and completely ruin this mower with a costly fix!

My strip of grass between the sidewalk and the street - same concern there about hitting concrete.

The TruCut is just wide enough to cover the whole strip so no issues with it. I can also Get it up right against the concrete and it will not hit because of the frame/bedknife design.

Any opinions are appreciated - I'd love to switch to a greens mower but just making sure it is practical.

**I only have room for one**
 
That is ultimately a decision you will have to make, and you have the unique benefit of using both on your own lawn until you figure out what will work best for you. :thumbup:
 
Kustrud said:
ALright so I should have one of the 260's up and running today ready to cut! Thing is, I am unsure about whether to keep my TruCut or switch to one of these! I know it's a better mower and I know it'll cut even better than the Tru Cut but ai have two main concerns.

In most spots, my yard is lower than the driveway/sidewalk - will this be an issue as I obviously do not want to hit concrete and completely ruin this mower with a costly fix!

My strip of grass between the sidewalk and the street - same concern there about hitting concrete.

The TruCut is just wide enough to cover the whole strip so no issues with it. I can also Get it up right against the concrete and it will not hit because of the frame/bedknife design.

Any opinions are appreciated - I'd love to switch to a greens mower but just making sure it is practical.

**I only have room for one**
My lawn is also lower than my driveway/curb in most spots and I'm able to run the front roller right up near the edge with no worry of smacking the concrete. I would recommend a dry run at it, just try to drive the mower near the edges with the reel off and see how practical it may be.
 
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