[RayFinkle]

Hi friends,

Having some problems getting my whole lawn the same green color (Centipede). Saw @Greendoc talking about Nematodes to another member with a similar looking problem.

Within the last 4-weeks I've only applied Milo. Visited SiteOne for the first time and was recommended a 20-0-20 which I haven't applied yet.

Here is what I'm working with:

 

[SCGrassMan]

Look into take all root rot. Just discovered this at a neighbors.

 

[RayFinkle]

Look into take all root rot. Just discovered this at a neighbors.

That sounds terrifying to deal with since apparently the only way to deal with it is to tear out and resod the affected areas.

 

[SCGrassMan]

Not at all true. If thats what it is you need to hit it with fungicide and top dress with peat moss.

 

[Colonel K0rn]

So before exploring fungicides and fertilizers, did you have complete coverage and it's dying, or did you just have sparse coverage to begin with and are looking to increase it? If it's the latter, I would go with the 20-0-20 recommendation from Site One.

Laces out

 

[RayFinkle]

So before exploring fungicides and fertilizers, did you have complete coverage and it's dying, or did you just have sparse coverage to begin with and are looking to increase it? If it's the latter, I would go with the 20-0-20 recommendation from Site One.

Laces out

Laces out baby!

Sparse coverage, certainly compared to last year.

I'll throw down the 20-0-20 and wait several weeks. If no improvement, I'll look for a fungicide that deals with Take all Root Rot. Any suggestions?

 

[TC2]

Centipede decline is a possibility, which could result from a whole host of issues, feeding it too well being one of them. Depending on pH, iron availability could be low making it go greeny yellow.

You might want to look into seeding the sparse areas. Waiting for it to fill in is worse than watching paint dry.

 

[tnlynch81]

I would go straight to the peat moss. You can still fertilize but I would not wait to put down the peat moss, and not mess with any fungicides. Check out this article on TARR...
http://www.plantanswers.com/root_rot_fungus.htm
Finkle is Einhorn?

 

[RayFinkle]

Centipede decline is a possibility, which could result from a whole host of issues, feeding it too well being one of them. Depending on pH, iron availability could be low making it go greeny yellow.

You might want to look into seeding the sparse areas. Waiting for it to fill in is worse than watching paint dry.

My Soil Savy kit is on the way now.

So I should wait to fert until after I get the results?

 

[Spammage]

I would go straight to the peat moss. You can still fertilize but I would not wait to put down the peat moss, and not mess with any fungicides. Check out this article on TARR...
http://www.plantanswers.com/root_rot_fungus.htm
Finkle is Einhorn?

I agree. Most fungus issues arise at higher pH values (which is why the peat moss works against TARR), but if it's iron deficiency that is likely a pH issue too. Either way, the peat won't hurt, but could give you a heads start on recovery.

 

[starkus]

My soil test told me I had high pH for centipede which led to some yellowing during green up and poor performance in spots.

I sprayed 1 oz per 1,000 of Iron Sulfate to supplement the iron and get everything the same apple green color.

Peat Moss should address fungus and its low pH wouldn't hurt.

 

[RayFinkle]

My soil test told me I had high pH for centipede which led to some yellowing during green up and poor performance in spots.

I sprayed 1 oz per 1,000 of Iron Sulfate to supplement the iron and get everything the same apple green color.

Peat Moss should address fungus and its low pH wouldn't hurt.

Thanks for the tip. I've since ordered the iron!

How much peat moss are we talking here?

 

[starkus]

After the pics at the bottom they say "one 3.8 cubic foot bale peat per 1000 square feet of turf" which doesn't seem to bad.

 

[Colonel K0rn]

The Soil Savvy test is a good starting point for beginners, but not the most accurate method of testing. I don't look at them with disdain, but they're pretty expensive. I'm on mobile, but check out Ridgerunner's Soil test thread in the Articles and FAQ's. I found a lab in my state that participates in the NAPT program, and I am awaiting my comprehensive tests that were less than the SS tests. Pretty sure when I ask for some guidance, those will have more credibility than SS. But I'm not bashing them, I'd just rather spend my money on other things like fertilizer LOL 💵