Starter Fert?
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I prefer scotts starter with weed preventer, the blue bag, active ingredient is mesotrione. It kills and prevents many weeds but allows the grass to grow. For cool season lawns and not fine fescue tho.
I agree with GrassDaddy that this is a good product, but I did have some issue with whitening of existing grass in a very recent overseed two weeks ago. Not everywhere, just some small areas here and there. It may have been poa that I didn't recognize, but I also have some fine fescue that, as GrassDaddy said, is susceptible to some whitening as well.
Good news, though. It's been two weeks, and I just mowed today. There's almost no trace of whitened grass anywhere in my lawn anymore including in any areas that are more heavy fine fescue. The lawn looks absolutely great, and I've seen a noticeable decrease of the few weeds lingering in my lawn.
I applied the Scott's at 3/4 bag rate along with Milo the very same day at full bag rate (I usually go more than the bag rate for Milo, but since there was plenty of N form the Scott's Starter Fert, I went lighter than usual).
Good news, though. It's been two weeks, and I just mowed today. There's almost no trace of whitened grass anywhere in my lawn anymore including in any areas that are more heavy fine fescue. The lawn looks absolutely great, and I've seen a noticeable decrease of the few weeds lingering in my lawn.
I applied the Scott's at 3/4 bag rate along with Milo the very same day at full bag rate (I usually go more than the bag rate for Milo, but since there was plenty of N form the Scott's Starter Fert, I went lighter than usual).
I have Tall Fescue, not sure if it susceptible to the Scotts. I was going to use a Lesco 18-24-12. The have it at a local nursery.
Should I be more concerned with the N rate or the P?
Also would the Milo be ok to use as a starter. I just like using organics since I'm new to this and dont want to burn the lawn or damage the soil.
Should I be more concerned with the N rate or the P?
Also would the Milo be ok to use as a starter. I just like using organics since I'm new to this and dont want to burn the lawn or damage the soil.
I like to use organics a lot as well, but I do apply a synthetic in the spring and fall in order to get a heavy quick release of nitrogen. Milo is slow release which means new grass won't have that shot of N as readily available. Milo is absolutely awesome, but it's not really a starter fertilizer in the traditional sense.
With the Lesco you mentioned, just make sure that you follow the directions on the bag. You shouldn't burn the lawn if you're careful NOT to go beyond the bag rate. You can even go a little light if you want and you'll still get great results. And of course make sure to water it in afterward.
As far as the phosphorous, I believe in New York you can apply it so long as it's with seeding. I don't know how that works in other states. I apply Milo from March to October with no concern for phosphorous even when not overseeding.
With the Lesco you mentioned, just make sure that you follow the directions on the bag. You shouldn't burn the lawn if you're careful NOT to go beyond the bag rate. You can even go a little light if you want and you'll still get great results. And of course make sure to water it in afterward.
As far as the phosphorous, I believe in New York you can apply it so long as it's with seeding. I don't know how that works in other states. I apply Milo from March to October with no concern for phosphorous even when not overseeding.
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I recently had success with an overseed using Scotts Starter Fertilizer (regular green bag) and Milorganite.
Going back to the original question, starter fertilizer is a marketing term. Most of them include phosphorus to help in root development. The ratio of phosphorus to nitrogen varies from brand to brand. It will all depend on what your soil needs.
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+1
The "conventional wisdom" is that the roots of new seedlings, not being very expansive and close to the surface can be aided by making phosphorous, potassium and N easily available for them to access. I can't say if Milo would provide that in a timely manor. N should be from an ammonium source as young turf uses a greater percentage of ammonium-N than nitrate until it "matures". I suppose that makes sense when you consider that most fresh OM is on the soil surface and the first step of deriving N from OM decay is ammonium-N.
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