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I seeded SPF-30 Sept 17 (Raleigh, NC zone 7b) and I have had pretty good germination from day 10 onward, but what has germinated seems to still be in the 'sprout and pout' stage. Is this pretty common with SPF-30? How long does it usually last?
I'm not there yet with my yard, but not looking forward to it. Can you share some pics?
 

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After 2 weeks from seed down and 2-1/2 days pre germinating, I'm quite pleased with the combat extreme southern zone seed. No kbg yet to the eye but fescue doing great. View attachment 1291
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Hey! So I am over here in SC (on border near Charlotte) and renovated my property last month and got seed down and straw over it on 9/24. I also used this Combat Extreme Southern Zone. Above ground irrigation and that Scotts 3 way with tenacity...and even though I got a ton of water from the remnants of Hurricane Ian moving through here, most of the seed seemed to stay in place (based on the fescue sprouts). My new younglings looks as tall (maybe a tad taller) than yours, but I also do not think I can see any of the KBG coming in yet. Any idea on when this should be cut? I don't want the fescue to get too too tall, but I also don't want to run a mower (wheels, my own walking) over freshly sprouted KBG for fear of killing it. I am not really used to having two different types of grasses with germination rates this far apart. I too was surprised at germination on day 6 for fescue...
 

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Hey! So I am over here in SC (on border near Charlotte) and renovated my property last month and got seed down and straw over it on 9/24. I also used this Combat Extreme Southern Zone. Above ground irrigation and that Scotts 3 way with tenacity...and even though I got a ton of water from the remnants of Hurricane Ian moving through here, most of the seed seemed to stay in place (based on the fescue sprouts). My new younglings looks as tall (maybe a tad taller) than yours, but I also do not think I can see any of the KBG coming in yet. Any idea on when this should be cut? I don't want the fescue to get too too tall, but I also don't want to run a mower (wheels, my own walking) over freshly sprouted KBG for fear of killing it. I am not really used to having two different types of grasses with germination rates this far apart. I too was surprised at germination on day 6 for fescue...
After looking at my notes when I had SPF30 alone I mowed on day 34 after seeing sprouts.
As for the fescue and kbg you bring up a good point as I'm probably 1 week or two from mowing and I'm on day 15 today and no kbg yet.
I'm going to use my fiskars push reel mower at the highest setting around 4 inches so no gas mower yet, just to heavy. I would wait til it's truly shaggy, hope this helps. Post pics when you can.
 

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That's alot of work, great job. Coming along nicely 👌
I was just going to do this small area in the back that was flooding then it evolved. I bought dirt I and got extra and bought some spf 30 and combat extreme to try, neighbors (group of 6) wanted me to throw in on renting a thatcher and blower. I hate to do all that work and not put down enough seed so I bought more. I applied some Gly to problem areas earlier at the end of August about 20% of yard but mainly focused on the front if I knew I was going to do all that I did I probably would have killed it all. honestly I was a little worried about nothing coming up.

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1st mow today on front lightly as possible electric mower straight lines turning on driveway and neighbors yard. I skipped the edges near road or where it is patchier and I added seed earlier this week
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I seeded SPF-30 Sept 17 (Raleigh, NC zone 7b) and I have had pretty good germination from day 10 onward, but what has germinated seems to still be in the 'sprout and pout' stage. Is this pretty common with SPF-30? How long does it usually last?
Yes, very common. I'd expect about 8 weeks, perhaps less for your area, for the plant growth to reach it's first cut.

We are in year 2 since the original planting of SPF-30 seed here in zone 8b. What I have observed here is once the plants get established, the lawn does very well and grows more dense; it has simply taken over a year to get established. Patience has been the challenging part for me.

There were major set backs this summer with grub damage. Lost about 20% of the lawn as a result. I'll be putting down the Grub-X in April this year versus June. If there's even a remote chance of grubs in your area, I highly encourage you to get on the lawn in the spring.
 

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Has anyone had any issues with Poa Triv contamination in their seed from Outside Pride? I'm thinking of picking up a couple bags of their Compat Extreme Southern for next year's reno but noticed it has "Other Crop Seeds" on their label. And not to mention they sell Poa Triv on their website :eek:

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Yes, very common. I'd expect about 8 weeks, perhaps less for your area, for the plant growth to reach it's first cut.

We are in year 2 since the original planting of SPF-30 seed here in zone 8b. What I have observed here is once the plants get established, the lawn does very well and grows more dense; it has simply taken over a year to get established. Patience has been the challenging part for me.

There were major set backs this summer with grub damage. Lost about 20% of the lawn as a result. I'll be putting down the Grub-X in April this year versus June. If there's even a remote chance of grubs in your area, I highly encourage you to get on the lawn in the spring.
I had the grub issue this year too ... I thought I protected myself, well I didn't, my fault. My grub spots I raked out and put seed down (about 2 weeks ago now) with started fertilizer and a little Nitro ... came up quick and filling in now. Lesson learned for me again, count my bags and make sure I put down the Grub Killer and weed fertilizer in the fall and spring.

Best of luck recovering !
 

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Has anyone had any issues with Poa Triv contamination in their seed from Outside Pride? I'm thinking of picking up a couple bags of their Compat Extreme Southern for next year's reno but noticed it has "Other Crop Seeds" on their label. And not to mention they sell Poa Triv on their website :eek:
Seems to be a known issue from what I read on this forum and is why I put down tenacity when I seeded. I still had it randomly popping up and manually had to pull it up about 3 weeks after seeding. I used both spf30 and southern combat extreme seed from outside pride.

Mother nature is messing with me with this blast of cold weather exactly a month after seeding. Could get to almost freezing tonight. Yard just now starting to look good and I would imagine it is almost all TTTF, hope my SPF 30 can take an early blast of cold.

I have Grubs can I put down Grub X now on a new lawn or do I need to wait until April zone 8? nevermind I read about it - Grub ex kills the eggs produced in spring so I need to wait until spring.
 

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Seems to be a known issue from what I read on this forum and is why I put down tenacity when I seeded. I still had it randomly popping up and manually had to pull it up about 3 weeks after seeding. I used both spf30 and southern combat extreme seed from outside pride.

Mother nature is messing with me with this blast of cold weather exactly a month after seeding. Could get to almost freezing tonight. Yard just now starting to look good and I would imagine it is almost all TTTF, hope my SPF 30 can take an early blast of cold.

I have Grubs can I put down Grub X now on a new lawn or do I need to wait until April zone 8? nevermind I read about it - Grub ex kills the eggs produced in spring so I need to wait until spring.
That's what I was worried about. I love the look of the SPF30/Southern Combat Extreme and it seems to be perfect for the transition zone but I really do not want to risk dealing with a Poa Triv outbreak. Decisions, decisions...

As for your grubs, you'll need to put down Trichlorfon to kill the grubs - either Bayer's BioAdvanced 24 Hour Grub Killer or Dylox. It is safe to use on new lawns. As you found out, GrubEx is just a preventative.

 

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So I spent time pulling out these rare beauties. I hope this isn't poa a in my seed mix but just some small amount that broke thru in the renovation. Is anyone on our group experienced in determining whether this is or not? It looked very light in color than the rest of the fescue/kbg.
Plant Botany Terrestrial plant Grass Grass family
Plant Terrestrial plant Grass Grass family Flowering plant
Fescue on the left side and possibly poa on the right and much lighter in color.
 

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@Lem855

I think that's actually annual ryegrass. Note the veins and lighter green color.

Could also be something else entirely.
 
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So I did a complete reno back in late September. Seeded around 9/25, watered, did everything I needed to. Grass started coming in great. The fescue came up in 6 days and started growing fast. I didn't want to cut yet because the bluegrass was taking its sweet time and I didn't wanna crush it with the mower wheels (and walking). Regardless, once the fescue got to around 3 inches it started its sprout and pout and didn't really grow any further. The bluegrass started to come in around the end of the 2nd week of October. While that grew, the fescue hit 4 inches in some spots and the leaves started coming down quickly. I just finally did the first mow on 11/6 since the fescue is 4 inches in some spots and the bluegrass is creeping in on 3 inches...maybe. And I had to get rid of the leaves.

So I did the first mow and kept it pretty high. Took around 1-1.5 inches off the tallest fescue. Not all the grass was cut as some wasn't tall enough yet to reach the mower blades.

Grass looked great.

So today (11/11) I noticed a yellowing tint across some portions of the lawn. I don't know what it is. Not sure if it's fungus, or stress from cutting. I forgot to change the mower blades, they are around a year old and on close inspection of the grass blades...it looked kinda rough (I'm so mad at myself for not thinking about that prior). The yellowing is at the tips and seems to be working it's way down?

The grass has also been wet more often than dry. Because of how long the bluegrass took to come in, I kept the surface wet. It wasn't until 3 weeks ago I started only watering a couple times a week...at most since we've gotten a lot of rain and not a lot of sun. Since early last week I haven't watered and the ground is remaining wet.

Regardless, this is my first reno and I'm a bit of a grass novice...and I'm not sure what to think. Any advice or opinions would be much appreciated. If the mower blade stressed the grass, how do I fix that? And if it's fungus, do I just grab a fungicide? I have a feeling it's a combination problem as I have two small spots which look like brown rings forming.


Plant Terrestrial plant Groundcover Grass Herbaceous plant

Grass Grassland Groundcover Terrestrial plant Terrestrial animal

Plant Terrestrial plant Grass Groundcover Agriculture

Plant Terrestrial plant Grass Grassland Grass family
 

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So I did a complete reno back in late September. Seeded around 9/25, watered, did everything I needed to. Grass started coming in great. The fescue came up in 6 days and started growing fast. I didn't want to cut yet because the bluegrass was taking its sweet time and I didn't wanna crush it with the mower wheels (and walking). Regardless, once the fescue got to around 3 inches it started its sprout and pout and didn't really grow any further. The bluegrass started to come in around the end of the 2nd week of October. While that grew, the fescue hit 4 inches in some spots and the leaves started coming down quickly. I just finally did the first mow on 11/6 since the fescue is 4 inches in some spots and the bluegrass is creeping in on 3 inches...maybe. And I had to get rid of the leaves.

So I did the first mow and kept it pretty high. Took around 1-1.5 inches off the tallest fescue. Not all the grass was cut as some wasn't tall enough yet to reach the mower blades.

Grass looked great.

So today (11/11) I noticed a yellowing tint across some portions of the lawn. I don't know what it is. Not sure if it's fungus, or stress from cutting. I forgot to change the mower blades, they are around a year old and on close inspection of the grass blades...it looked kinda rough (I'm so mad at myself for not thinking about that prior). The yellowing is at the tips and seems to be working it's way down?

The grass has also been wet more often than dry. Because of how long the bluegrass took to come in, I kept the surface wet. It wasn't until 3 weeks ago I started only watering a couple times a week...at most since we've gotten a lot of rain and not a lot of sun. Since early last week I haven't watered and the ground is remaining wet.

Regardless, this is my first reno and I'm a bit of a grass novice...and I'm not sure what to think. Any advice or opinions would be much appreciated. If the mower blade stressed the grass, how do I fix that? And if it's fungus, do I just grab a fungicide? I have a feeling it's a combination problem as I have two small spots which look like brown rings forming.


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I’d say you’re pretty spot on with mower blades being dull. I’d sharpen them with an angle grinder flap disk, 60 grit should get it pretty good. Getting cuts like that with a rotary opens up the plant to disease and weakness.
 
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