[JDgreen18]

I got my soil test results back today

 

[pennstater2005]

Giving this a bump and moved it to the soil fertility forum for hopefully more views :thumbup:

 

[g-man]

They did not state their test method. I would focus on increasing potassium since it says low. Try to find SOP (0-0-50) applied monthly at 1lb of P/M (2lb of SOP/M). Since you are going to reno, I would apply phosphorous at seed down (1lb of P/M)

FYI M = 1000sqft = 1ksqft

 

[JDgreen18]

I plan on adding 2 to 3 inches of topsoil over the top on my current soil. Im assuming this will alter results.....should I treat the soil now then get it tested after I add the soil?

 

[g-man]

You will get different options on this. 2-3in will create a wierd later for the roots and could create water problems. If the bottom layer is more clay and the new top layer has more sand, then the water will get "trapped' until it travels thru the clay.

Can you go 6in? What not using it? What about tilling it?

 

[JDgreen18]

Hey gman on the back of the soil test it says they used the morgan test methed....as far as the soil goes I have sandy loom so I would be putting the better soil on top to hold more moisture?. I used 4 inches when I did my 2 smaller areas this spring but I scraped the top layer off my existing turf. They seemed to be doing good so I thought I'd be good.
6inches would be a lot I'd have to remove some existing soil for sure plus I'm talking 11k sf I'd need well over 100 yards of topsoil...Im already getting 40.
So ur thinking I would be better spreading the topsoil then tilling it together to make a more consistant soil mixture?
As far as not using it my soil is really sandy I defiantly need some kind of soil especially in some parts.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Published Morgan sufficiency ranges are pretty State specific due to the amount of individual State Ag service studies over the years. 38 ppm of P classified as "medium" is a bit out of line when compared to the ranges (10-20 ppm) set by other States (Mass. Maine etc) for the Morgan test but Conn soils could be that different.
Your CEC is 10ish. It is capable of holding sufficient nutrients if that is a cause for your desire to add new soil. IMO, that's pretty decent soil.

 

[JDgreen18]

Published Morgan sufficiency ranges are pretty State specific due to the amount of individual State Ag service studies over the years. 38 ppm of P classified as "medium" is a bit out of line when compared to the ranges (10-20 ppm) set by other States (Mass. Maine etc) for the Morgan test but Conn soils could be that different.
Your CEC is 10ish. It is capable of holding sufficient nutrients if that is a cause for your desire to add new soil. IMO, that's pretty decent soil.

So your thinking I dont need to add soil? It is very dusty and sandy ....there is a few spots I def have to that my pool used to be....
I guesd it would be a good thing not to have to add its 2100 bucks for 60 yards which only gives me 2 inches of soil.
I just want to do thus right and not have to redo this a second time

 

[Ridgerunner]

Published Morgan sufficiency ranges are pretty State specific due to the amount of individual State Ag service studies over the years. 38 ppm of P classified as "medium" is a bit out of line when compared to the ranges (10-20 ppm) set by other States (Mass. Maine etc) for the Morgan test but Conn soils could be that different.
Your CEC is 10ish. It is capable of holding sufficient nutrients if that is a cause for your desire to add new soil. IMO, that's pretty decent soil.

So your thinking I dont need to add soil? It is very dusty and sandy ....there is a few spots I def have to that my pool used to be....
I guesd it would be a good thing not to have to add its 2100 bucks for 60 yards which only gives me 2 inches of soil.
I just want to do thus right and not have to redo this a second time

Whether or not to add soil is a determination I wouldn't presume to make on the basis of the information expressed over a forum. If the results of your soil test accurately reflect your soil (sufficient sampling was taken), your soil will hold nutrients in sufficient amounts. There are, of course, other considerations besides nutrient capacity, like percolation and water retention. There are people here who have great lawns in much lower CEC and "sandier" soils. (See Ware's lawn and soil test results, albeit he is growing a warm season turf.). You describe your soil as "dusty". Why is your soil drying out? There could be a number of possible reasons and a "simple" soil test wont provide or eliminate the possibilities... or maybe you just aren't watering enough or have enough ground cover to retain soil moisture.
A major concern with adding soil is changes in grading and drainage. Always choose the soundness of the house over a lawn. If there are low spots, by all means use a fill, but keep grade and drainage in mind. With adjustments to the maintenance routine, any soil will support a great lawn and over a few years soil quality and characteristics will improve. Turf will create better soil. If adding 2-4" of soil will not create structural/drainage/grade issues and you can afford the cost, it can be a viable short-cut to a better, sustainable lawn, but purchase from a source that provides a soil test of their product. No sense in adding a soil that is as bad or worse.