[opiespank]

So I got my soil test results back. I am working on rehabbing my front lawn. I understand my ph deficit and working on adding lime to the lawn, but my question is about the amount of nitrogen that is recommended.

It says 9.9lbs 1000/sqft of urea. How do I translate to what I need to buy? I know that urea is 46-0-0. How can I translate this to scotts or another brand name fert. Say something like a 32-0-4 since I know I need some potash?

TIA,

Keith

 

[Spammage]

The Scott's products use slightly different ingredients, so you will need to check the bags and adjust accordingly. Keep in mind that those suggestions are for the growing season. You shouldn't put down 5lbs/1000 of nitrogen at one time. Each application should be about 1 lb/1000 of nitrogen, so 3 lbs/1000 of the Scott's product you referenced.

 

[Ware]

Welcome to TLF!

If you haven't already, check out the Basics > Fertilizing section of the Bermuda Bible: The New Testament. It has a good explanation of how to interpret a fertilizer analysis/label. :thumbup:

 

[opiespank]

Thank you.

 

[Colonel K0rn]

Welcome to TLF! :thumbup:

I see that you also have Centipede, aka The Lazy Man's Grass. Keep in mind that Centipede likes a lower pH than most lawns, and requires very little N inputs in order to perform well. Be careful with throwing lots of fert on it. Have you done a PreM application already? We also love pictures.

 

[opiespank]

Yeah, I think I have 3 different types of grass maybe 4 throughout my yard. I am not sure what the previous owners were thinking about the front yard, but it is half Bermuda, half centipede. I like the look of a good Bermuda lawn, so I am going to go with that. I read that if you feed it right it will take over a centipede lawn. I also have some St. Aug and I killed some Bihaia grass. I did put down a preM late Feb, since it started warming up then. I plan to aerate end of may and put down another app of preM. I have been using a back pack sprayer with prodiamine65, but it really is too much for my full lawn, which is around 17000 sqft.

These were taken about a month or so ago after I did my first mow and scalp. I have since cut down the Bradford pear, it was diseased. You can see the dormant Bermuda and the greener Centipede from my cut. This front section is around 4100sqft

I have a few bare spots in my lawn, I thought about re seeding after I aerate, but is that necessary? I have been reading that if I feed Bermuda it will fill in those spots. I plan on feeding this area (1) 1.5lbs of nitrogen every month.

Here is an overview of my total lawn and my scribbling. The back yard I am not too worried about, it is centipede with some pine trees and gumball trees in the very back, so sun is lacking. I think with just a preM one to two ferts a year, I should be good. To the right of the driveway, is the St. Aug/Centipede/Bermuda mix, I think I will just let the Centipede take over since that is what is in the neighbors lawn.

This is probably more than what you asked. I feel that for the first time, I have a plan to tackle the front yard.

 

[J_nick]

No need to seed Bermuda if there is some already there. If you're wanting to push the fertilizer I would go with .75#N/M every 2 weeks instead of 1.5#N/M every month.

 

[Colonel K0rn]

Thanks for the pictures. With the slope of your yard, I'd recommend against getting the Chapin 24V push sprayer, and possibly look at a pull-behind sprayer around 20 gallons or so. That should allow you to get your whole yard with any broadcast applications you might need to make (PreM or PostM), assuming that you have something to pull it with. If you didn't, then I would consider one of the battery powered sprayers as an alternative (I don't know what kind of backpack sprayer you have).

Sweet Gum trees are the devil. :evil:

Push the N and the bermuda will take over everything. Spoon feeding, like J_nick mentioned, would allow you to gauge the growth that you're getting, and give you a better idea how the lawn is going to respond and let you know if you're going to need to kill off anything.

 

[opiespank]

Thank you for all this information. I don't have anything to pull a 20 Gallon sprayer. I am currently using a 4 gallon Chapin self pumping. I might look into the walk behind. The biggest issue is a sloped yard on the right side, it makes mowing that side tough on anything other than a self-propelled. This has really gotten me thinking though.

I will add 10# of fert in a few weeks to start off and apply every 2 weeks to keep things in check.

Thanks for all of the advice, I am actually excited for the growing season. Looking forward to really see what I can do to my yard.

 

[Ridgerunner]

I will add 10# of fert in a few weeks to start off and apply every 2 weeks to keep things in check.

Hold on. 10# of what type of fertilizer and on what sized area?
Which lab did your soils test?

 

[opiespank]

LSU Ag did my soil test. I have no reason to doubt their findings, as they are pretty reputable. I was basing my fertilizer numbers on Scotts 32-0-10 turf builder southern. I used a fertilizer calculator to come up with the 10# of product to apply .75# N/1000 sq ft for my front lawn at 4063 sqft. I will use a setting of 13 on my earthway spreader to spread this out.

 

[Ridgerunner]

LSU Ag did my soil test. I have no reason to doubt their findings, as they are pretty reputable. I was basing my fertilizer numbers on Scotts 32-0-10 turf builder southern. I used a fertilizer calculator to come up with the 10# of product to apply .75# N/1000 sq ft for my front lawn at 4063 sqft.

I wan't questioning the lab's results or reputation. I asked because I'm keeping a log of the different labs used for people to reference, plus knowing which lab can help determine what test procedures were used for my own purposes.
Regarding the fertillierer rate, I was concerned that you might be applying (46-0-0 or 32-0-0 etc.) per 1000 sq. ft.
N.M. Disregard the interruption.

 

[opiespank]

No worries.

I got my 1.5#N/1000 based on the Bermuda bible in this forums and not by going off the recommendation of the soil test. A thought came to me as I was answering your question, should I follow the recommended N that I got back from my soil test instead of what I read in the Bermuda bible on this forums? I don't think either will steer me wrong. Here are my assumptions and calculations for that:

9.9# Urea N /1000sqf over the whole growing season, 7mths (May-Nov).
1.4# Urea N/1000sqf a month (9.9/7)
Based on the a fertilizer calculator, it I will need to put down 12.5# of urea (46-0-0) fertilizer every month to to cover my 4063sqf front lawn.

You know when you spread it out over 7 months it does not seem that much. It also seems that going with the Bermuda bible recommendations I will be putting down more nitrogen.

 

[Ware]

A Nitrogen rate of 1.5 lb/M will push a lot of growth. That's about twice the amount I apply monthly.

The bermuda bible says:

If your lawn is thin and needs some filling in, go with 1.0-1.5 lbs of Nitrogen per thousand square feet of lawn per month.

Under normal conditions it recommends:

...a rate of 0.5-1.0 lb of Nitrogen per thousand.

Not sure what you're dealing with exactly, but just didn't want someone else to come along and see the 1.5 lb/M and run with it. :thumbup:

 

[opiespank]

My lawn is pretty thin and needs filling in. I also need the Bermuda to take over half of the lawn of Centipede.

 

[Ridgerunner]

My area of interest is primarily in soil testing and my experience with turf is solely with cool season KBG turf.
FWIW, over the years, I've noticed that the fertilizer recommendations (NPK) for lawns has been dropping (I believe due to environmental considerations, but also based on the average homeowners expectations) this is particularly true with University labs.
The soil test recommendations from labs are almost universally given as a lump sum amount for the entire growing season. Whatever total amount given is meant to be divided up by the number of applications the homeowner wishes to make, usually with the caveat, that no more than 1# of N (N is a growth regulator), P or K be applied within one month's time period.
Having no experience with warm season grasses, I would not presume to advise you on application rates. However, the New Testament of the Bermuda Bible (BBNT) is well regarded here by those with experience who have put their money where their mouths are and have consistently produced fantastic lawns. If you are interested in putting a little extra effort in for improved lawn performance/results, IMO, you can confidently follow the advice given in the BBNT.

 

[opiespank]

Thank you @Ridgerunner That is what I was going to do. After reading multiple threads in this forum and seeing some of the lawns that have been produced, I have no doubt that people here know what they are talking about. I have been struggling with my front lawn for a year or so now. Getting information from this forum has been invaluable. I plan on following the Bermuda Triangle to get my lawn looking good.

 

[Colonel K0rn]

Thank you @Ridgerunner That is what I was going to do. After reading multiple threads in this forum and seeing some of the lawns that have been produced, I have no doubt that people here know what they are talking about. I have been struggling with my front lawn for a year or so now. Getting information from this forum has been invaluable. I plan on following the Bermuda Triangle to get my lawn looking good.

Highlighted because it's the truth!