[crispy34]

Did a soil test @ Rutgers and got the results back this weekend. Need some help with fertilization and lime. Ideally want to get my lawn in shape for overseeding this fall.

What I've done thus far:
Prodiamine - .185 oz/1000 sq ft - October 2017
Milorganite - 36lb/2500 sq ft - October 2017
Prodiamine - .185 oz/1000 sq ft - March 2018

Fertilization:
I was thinking of using Milorganite in May; however it's listed as 6-4-0. What are the pros and cons of using this on my lawn? Should I use Kelp Meal instead (2-0-2) as suggested by Rutgers?

Lime:
Anyone know where I can find calcilitic pelletized lime around central NJ? HD and Lowes are all showing Dolomitic. From reading around, my magnesium is already very high and Dolomitic will be harmful to the lawn.

Back Yard:
ph is 5.99
The soil pH is below the optimum range of 6.00 to 6.60 for the growth of most Turfgrass, cool season.
To optimize the soil condition, it should be treated with 30 pounds per 1000 square feet using calcitic limestone.
This may be applied in a single operation in either the spring or fall for this established planting. Do not apply more
than the recommended amount until the soil is tested again.

Target ratio for fertilizer product is: 1-0-1
The estimated yearly nitrogen (N) need of this crop/planting is 1 pound per 1000 square feet.
Phosphorus: 189 (Above Optimum) P
Potassium: 172 (Optimum) K
Magnesium: 410 (Above Optimum) Mg
Calcium: 2474 (Above Optimum)

Front Yard:
pH is 7.6 - Normal Range
Target ratio for fertilizer product is: 2-1-2
The estimated yearly nitrogen (N) need of this crop/planting is 2 pounds per 1000 square feet.
Phosphorus: 121 (Optimum) P
Potassium: 132 (Below Optimum) K
Magnesium: 432 (Above Optimum) Mg
Calcium: 3523 (Above Optimum)

 

[g-man]

Do you have the units (ppm? lb/acre?) and the test method (M3?). Did they provide a CEC?

Can you explain the difference in ph between front and back?

 

[crispy34]

Pounds per Acre.
Mehlich 3 extraction
They did not provide a CEC.

Back is shaded, 4-5 large oak tree.
Front is mostly sunny, no large trees.

Do you have the units (ppm? lb/acre?) and the test method (M3?). Did they provide a CEC?

Can you explain the difference in ph between front and back?

 

[Ridgerunner]

If possible could you post a copy of the test (Remove name, address and phone number)?
It may help g-man in giving advice.

 

[g-man]

I'm troubled by the difference in pH. It is clear based on in the difference in calcium. Is this your first soil test ever? Have you applied lime to the front in the past?

A ph of 6 is not bad. I would be tempted to say, do nothing with lime this year if you cant find it. I think you could use Milo in both areas. The front could use some potassium to supplement what the grass will consume. This could be some organic or synthetics.

Their recommendation of just one pound of N for the entire year is low.

Could you post the entire report?

 

[crispy34]

Yes, first soil test ever. Moved into this house about 1 year ago, I never applied lime and I'm not sure what the previous owner applied.

Also took the samples before putting down Prodiamine.

Here is the report: https://www.scribd.com/document/375931386/Soil-Report-Scan

 

[Ridgerunner]

That's a much more reasonable pH 6.96. I think you mistook the Lime requirement Index (Buffer pH) for soil solution pH.

EDIT: NM, not important.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Your front yard Potassium and Phosphorous values are very near sufficiency ranges. That's fine. You can find the M3 sufficiency ranges in this thread: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=1088 (convert lbs/acre to ppm by dividing lbs/ acre by 2)
With your front yard, Rutgers recommends a 2-1-2. Every time you fertilize this year, That is the ratio you will want to try to use. It is known as a "complete" fertilizer and is ideal for you as for every pound of Nitrogen you apply you will be applying about 0.25 pounds of Phosphorous and 0.83 pounds of Potassium, very near the expected ratios that grass will use those three nutrients (with .83 pounds of Potassium likely just a little over what many grasses will use). Consequently, at the end of the year, your soil values should be pretty close to where they are now. Testing next year will determine if that happened and you can adjust for next year. As your Potassium is just slightly bellow sufficiency, the small excess supplied by the 2-1-2 should bring it up some. Even if it doesn't, no harm as the 2-1-2 should apply everything the grass needs anyway. What's already in the soil is "insurance", a bank for any needed funds, just in case.
Your Phosphorous is just above sufficiency range. That's not a problem, and the 2-1-2 should supply all the phosphorous the grass needs so your Phosphorous levels should stay steady - neither rise or fall by the end of the year.

Your back yard: Nutrients are at their most available when pH is 6 to 7. You are just under that. Rutgers would like to have you adjust pH to a mid 6 to 7, so they have suggested a lime application.
Your back yard Potassium value is withing sufficiency range, However, your Phosphorous value at 94.5 is high. Nearly double of the top of the sufficiency range. Phosphorous tends to bind with micro nutrients making those nutrients less available. Phosphorous also has an antagonistic component in relation to potassium availability. Finally, phosphorous levels at some point when levels exceed 100ppm will stop turf roots from creating a symbiotic relationship with hypae causing the hyphae to die resulting in reduced plant nutrient availability.
Rutgers recommends a 1-0-1 ratio fertilzer for each time fertilizer is applied. Once again the N and potassium ratio will supply the needed amounts that the grass will use and soil levels of potassium should remain near the same at the end of the season. They recommend no phosphorous be added and allow the plant to draw its phosphorous needs from the soil. This will lower soil phosphorous levels and avoid increasing them to more detrimental levels.

To answer your specific questions:

Fertilization:
I was thinking of using Milorganite in May; however it's listed as 6-4-0. What are the pros and cons of using this on my lawn? Should I use Kelp Meal instead (2-0-2) as suggested by Rutgers?

For every pound of nitrogen applied using Milorganite, you will be applying 0.67 pounds of P2O5. That could be 0.21 lbs more P2O5 than the grass will use for that 1 lb of nitrogen. That 0.21 lbs of extra P2O5 will remain in the soil and raise soil phosphorous levels. If kelp meal has no phosphorous that would be a method for not raising soil phosphorous levels (and reducing as the grass draws from soil reserves) in the back yard, but kelp also may contain growth hormones and what the effect of applying 50 lbs of kelp meal per thousand sq ft of turf would be is outside my knowledge. (Edit 4/13/18 to correct math error of P)

Lime:
Anyone know where I can find calcilitic pelletized lime around central NJ? HD and Lowes are all showing Dolomitic. From reading around, my magnesium is already very high and Dolomitic will be harmful to the lawn.

Check SiteOne. Otherwise, most HDs and Lowes carry a calcitic fast acting lime. (less than 6% Mg). It is more expensive than calcitic aglime. Because it dissolves faster than aglime, it should be applied in smaller amounts over time (10 lbs per thousand with 60 days between applications). Follow package directions.

 

[g-man]

Ive been developing an excel file to help do all these calculations. It is still in alpha state, but I ran the numbers and it matches with Ridgerunner recommendations (I'm assuming 5lb of N/yr). I still need it to flag when P is too high.

 

[glenmonte]

Jonathan Green Mag-i-cal should be easy to find. Just make sure it's the one for aciditic lawns, even though they shouldn't even have the alkaline one available in the area.

 

[Jconnelly6b]

@crispy34 Coppola's Garden Center in S. Plainfield has the full line of Jonathan Green Products, you should be able to get Mag I Cal there - call ahead to be sure.

If they don't have, I get mine from Mikes Country Market in Milltown - he keeps a pretty good stock and is always very helpful.

 

[crispy34]

Thanks @Jconnelly6b , Coppola's is pretty close by. Will check it out this weekend. I assume I just need to use the spreader settings on their website and put it down twice a year using the 18LB (5000 sq ft) bag? Getting confused with the 5M and 15M bag sizes on their website.

@Ridgerunner - Appreciate the detailed analysis. Looking over my numbers, I'm going to go with another product rather than kelp meal....didn't realize I needed that much product until I started putting the numbers in a fertilizer calculator (http://agebb.missouri.edu/fertcalc/).

Any suggestions for products that would meet my needs. No preference for organic vs inorganic/chemical, just need something that I can't screw up.
1-0-1 : 2 lb(N)/1000sqft over 2500 sq ft
2-1-2: 1 lb(N)/1000sqft over 5000 sq ft

 

[Jconnelly6b]

I think based on the comments above you only need to adjust pH for the backyard. For some reason the report doesn't load on my screen so I can't see the numbers.

Determine approx sq. footage of the area you want to lime, and buy a single bag for that application. You may not need the fall application as even your backyard pH isn't that bad... it all depends on how soil reacts over the next couple months.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Unfortunately lab recommendations for fertilizer ratios very often have nothing to do with the reality of available fertilzers that can be bought. Fortunately (or unfortunately, depending on how OCD a person is), due to all the variables that exist (climate, turf type, growth rate, soil structure etc. and maybe even a sampling error ) we are more or less throwing hand grenades than performing pin-point surgery.
First, I'd talk (phone) the places Jconnelly mentioned or look around for a Seed and Feed store, or contact a sod farmer (sometimes they sell on the side, or can recommend a local place) or garden center (mom and pop stores) or a SiteOne Lesco dealer Tell them the ratios you are looking for ( equal ratio of N and K with NO phosphorous 1-0-1 and an equal N and K with a small percentage of phosphorous 2-1-2 or 3-1-3 or even a 4-1-4 Lesco has a 16-4-8, although a little short on K, would work) and what they would recommend close to that.
Some people will buy 50 pound bags of nitrogen fertilizer, phosphorous fertilizer, and potassium fertilizer and either blend their own or apply the needed amount of each individually. That probably wouldn't be what you'd be interested in ATM.
If all else fails, then for the back yard try to locate a fertilizer that's as close to a 1-0-1 ratio as possible, like a 25-0-12 or a 24-0-11 or even a 32-0-10 (like Scotts Winterizer) It will suffice and your soil has enough reserves that any shortage will be met. Testing next year will show what adjustments will be needed next year. For the Front yard, you may need to mix and match. You should be able to find a triple NPK somewhere close to you (sometimes it's located where the garden fertilizers are rather than the lawn fertilizer area of stores). Triple NPK is 10-10-10, 12-12-12, 19-19-19, etc. Then you can apply the TNPK for two of your fertilizer applications and then apply whatever fertilizer you found for the back the other two times you fertilize. You can alternate them, TNPK June 1, the phosphorousless fertilizer Sept 1, TNPK October 1 and the phosphorousless fertilizer as your winterizer.

I think based on the comments above you only need to adjust pH for the backyard. For some reason the report doesn't load on my screen so I can't see the numbers.

Determine approx sq. footage of the area you want to lime, and buy a single bag for that application. You may not need the fall application as even your backyard pH isn't that bad... it all depends on how soil reacts over the next couple months.

+1 :thumbup:

 

[Ridgerunner]

Ive been developing an excel file to help do all these calculations. It is still in alpha state, but I ran the numbers and it matches with Ridgerunner recommendations (I'm assuming 5lb of N/yr). I still need it to flag when P is too high.

Sounds intriguing. :thumbup: