[Cincinnati guy]

I checked the PH of my recently renovated back yard (last fall) the PH is averaging 8. Is this optimal or should I lower it to around 7 where I've read is best?

I'm working on my weed issue! I didn't learn about this forum before I started the renovation and never did any pre emergent last year pre renovation and now the weeds are out of hand but I've tried the new round up for lawns and seems to be slowly working!

 

[Crystalguy]

Hello, your soil PH should be between 6 & 7 for most grass types. Jonathon Green Mag-i-cal for alkaline soils will help. How tall are you cutting your grass, the taller the better to choke out weeds. When is the last time you did a soil test? Soil Savvy is real good and resonable. It's not to late to put some prodiamine down.

 

[g-man]

I respectfully disagree. Adding more calcium to a soil with high pH (likely from high calcium) is only going to make it worst long term. The JG product is trying to add sulfur, but i doubt it will have a long term effect on the pH. The amount of sulfur you need to add to lower the pH is really high and it will take a long time.

I have a high pH soil (8.1) confirmed from two different labs. I have a decent lawn. HLG also has a high pH (normal for the indy area). We just work around it. Iron needs to chelated. It needs around 20% more nutrients to compensate for the availability (per Purdue article).

Lastly, I don't agree with Soil Savvy being real good or reasonable. 1) it is expensive at $30. 2) they are not part of the NAPT 3) they don't explain their test methods or rational for their targets. 4) their own report states that the pH value is not accurate. 5) recommendations are for a few months.

There are plenty of good soil labs. RidgeRunner listed links to them in this post: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=1088&start=40#p32958 . For example, for $16.50, you could get a good soil test from Waypoint Analytical Memphis,TN. A local lab to you, will be more familiar with your soil and could use test methods that are more appropriate to your soil.

 

[Crystalguy]

Out of respect of this forum I am not going to respond to what sounds like a rip on a suggestion made to another member.

I read a post from another new member a while ago saying how happy they were to find this forum because the other one they were in there was a lot of bickering back and forth.

Hope they use all the approved methods and products or they'll get ripped on too.

Have a great summer.

 

[GrassDaddy]

Soil Savvy states their pH is .5 different from other labs, not that it's innacurate.

They test on what is available to the plant not what is in the soil. For instance you are stating to apply 20% more nutrients because it's not available at the high pH level. So the random person you send to get a 'better' test is supposed to know at what levels of each nutrient are going to be available?

It also costs to ship your sample so if you want to compare prices got to add that in. Soil Savvy has it prepaid and is done in a simple way.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Out of respect of this forum I am not going to respond to what sounds like a rip on a suggestion made to another member.

I read a post from another new member a while ago saying how happy they were to find this forum because the other one they were in there was a lot of bickering back and forth.

Hope they use all the approved methods and products or they'll get ripped on too.

Have a great summer.

g-man was not attacking or belittling you. I'm sorry you feel that he was. IMO, he was expressing his understanding of the situation, which is well grounded in soil science. It's late, but I will attempt to explain tomorrow why I think g-man has made some very valid points that should be considered in these circumstances. Hopefully, that may explain why he disagrees with your well intended suggestions.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Soil Savvy states their pH is .5 different from other labs, not that it's innacurate.

They test on what is available to the plant not what is in the soil. For instance you are stating to apply 20% more nutrients because it's not available at the high pH level. So the random person you send to get a 'better' test is supposed to know at what levels of each nutrient are going to be available?

It also costs to ship your sample so if you want to compare prices got to add that in. Soil Savvy has it prepaid and is done in a simple way.

I've changed my mind. It is wrong of me to assume that @GrassDaddy wouldn't verify the accuracy of the results and recommendations provided by SS before recommending them to people.

 

[g-man]

Here is the reference to the 20% extra. It is actually 25%, but I think that could be too much with phosphorus. It is better to continue a yearly monitoring and tweak as you approach the desire target.
http://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/AY/AY-18-W.pdf

This year I sampled my soil and i sent it to 3 different labs to compare them. Im still waiting for Logan Labs to write my observations.

 

[Colonel K0rn]

Soil Savvy states their pH is .5 different from other labs, not that it's innacurate.

They test on what is available to the plant not what is in the soil. For instance you are stating to apply 20% more nutrients because it's not available at the high pH level. So the random person you send to get a 'better' test is supposed to know at what levels of each nutrient are going to be available?

It also costs to ship your sample so if you want to compare prices got to add that in. Soil Savvy has it prepaid and is done in a simple way.

I guess I'm going to be the first person banned from TLF tomorrow.

Breaks out Google-Fu to verify your terrific thread on soil science and testing is not plagiarized
/s

 

[MikeD]

People must remember that a lot of people visit this site are here to get some simple questions, some simple answers they are not total Lawn Care nuts. Most don't want to go get a degree to learn how to read soil samples they want something simple. Soil Savvy is the perfect choice. I would highly recommend them it's done my yard / garden wonders.. You send a sample in about 5 days they send you email showing your results extremely easy to use and understand.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Breaks out Google-Fu to verify your terrific thread on soil science and testing is not plagiarized
/s

noted.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Out of respect of this forum I am not going to respond to what sounds like a rip on a suggestion made to another member.

I read a post from another new member a while ago saying how happy they were to find this forum because the other one they were in there was a lot of bickering back and forth.

Hope they use all the approved methods and products or they'll get ripped on too.

Have a great summer.

g-man was not attacking or belittling you. I'm sorry you feel that he was. IMO, he was expressing his understanding of the situation, which is well grounded in soil science. It's late, but I will attempt to explain tomorrow why I think g-man has made some very valid points that should be considered in these circumstances. Hopefully, that may explain why he disagrees with your well intended suggestions.

Sorry @Crystalguy m but I've lost interest in pursuing this subject.

 

[Alex58]

Hello Cincinnati guy,

The ideal soil pH for a lawn is between 6 and 7, but grass is adaptable so it will survive even in soil with pH 8. You just need to add more nutrients (especially iron, zinc, manganese, copper and boron are not available for the plants in alkaline soils). In your case I would recommend to lower the pH by adding fertilizer (with ammonium sulfate) and to mulch instead of mow the lawn. More info about: soil pH, if you want.

Have fun with your lawn