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SNOWBOB11's Lawn Journal 2019

29K views 163 replies 25 participants last post by  Ware  
#1 ·
New season, new journal.

Here's a link to last years journal.

I'm excited for the season to come. This will be the second full season since my reno, so I'm hoping to get the lawn to the best level it's been as of yet.

I have some new equipment that I got over the winter for this season that I'm waiting to try out.
Chapin battery sprayer with tee jet nozzle (no more pumping :D).
Spyker 50lb spreader.
And best of all I'll be getting into reel mowing with this sweet machine.

So far this spring has been pretty typical for my area with big temperature swings, snow, rain, some nice days, some not as nice. All I've really got done so far is managed to rake up the debris from the cold season and send in my soil for testing. I just got back my results today so I'm going to post them below.



It's interesting to see how much my phosphorus has raised since my last test. It was lacking before and now it's too high. No biggy I just won't apply any this season. My potassium is still low so it will be a few apps of SOP to increase it.

Anyways I'll try and get some pics up soon. The grass has just started to green up which is great to see.
 
#3 ·
Subscribed. Sorry I can't be more help with the copper. It might be on the low side, but still in the sufficiency range and probably is not detrimental to growth. Maybe post a question in the soil fertility forum. Question, how come you didn't put in a crop code to get recommendations? If you forgot, there is a way to input it on the waypoint website and it will automatically generate a new soil test pdf with the recommendations.

https://youtu.be/8J9xq-uO5-g
 
#5 ·
Pete1313 said:
Subscribed. Sorry I can't be more help with the copper. It might be on the low side, but still in the sufficiency range and probably is not detrimental to growth. Maybe post a question in the soil fertility forum. Question, how come you didn't put in a crop code to get recommendations? If you forgot, there is a way to input it on the waypoint website and it will automatically generate a new soil test pdf with the recommendations.
Thanks Pete. I will post up about the copper in the soil forum if no answers here.

I was thinking I could figure out what my soil needed myself instead of getting there recommendations. To be honest, after I sent off the soil I kind of second guessed myself for not adding the crop code. Thanks for the link for adding the crop code. I would not have known you could do that. I think I'm going to go ahead and add in the code so I can get the recommendations. :thumbup:
 
#7 ·
No problem. It is kind of fun to play around with the different crop codes. They are general recommendations, but are neat to see them change for various crops/grasses. I think I changed mine at least 6 times just for fun.
 
#8 ·
7.8 pH therefore you will need FAS for color and maybe actual chloriosis. Try to use AS for nitrogen. You are right about P and K.

I don't bother with the micros. Most of the research shows that it is inconclusive. Unless you see some visual issue that we could attribute to a micro, I would leave it alone.
 
#10 ·
Update on the lawn.

The grass has really started to green up over the last week. Growth is just starting to get under way.

Yesterday I sprayed kelp 4 less extreme blend. Today I sprayed prodiamine. There is rain forecast for tonight so should water everything in.

First time using a battery sprayer and I got to say it's great. One thing I didn't really like about lawn care was spraying with my old hand can sprayer. Now I'm looking forward to the next time I got to use it lol. I got a tee jet nozzle for it and the spray is great. You can tell it's more uniform coverage.

Snapped a couple pics this morning.





The green up is honestly ahead of schedule and well ahead of most lawns around. I attribute it to the heavy nitrogen last fall. It really shows it works.

I'm getting close to the first mow of the year. Can't wait to get the reel on it. I'd say in the next week I'll give it a cut.

If I'm talking about the good it's only fair I talk about the bad. The 500 sq ft side yard is lagging behind the main yard. For one it gets a lot more shade, two it developed some powdery mildew and fungus late last year and looked a bit rough from then and three we re did the fence at the side last year and it got a bit trampled. All these factors have made it slow to get going and much thinner than the main yard. I'm going to try and give it some spring nitrogen to try and thicken it up. I might also try to seed a couple areas by where we changed the fence and along the driveway. Because I might seed I didn't spray pre e on the side yard.

I also help out my next door neighbour sometimes with there yard. Last fall I overseeded there lawn with p rye. It has actually come it pretty good this spring. Much lighter green then the all KBG but not bad. With how fast p rye germinates and establishes it almost makes me want to use it to fill in the side yard... Almost lol.
 
#13 ·
SNOWBOB11 said:
Update on the lawn.

The grass has really started to green up over the last week. Growth is just starting to get under way.

Yesterday I sprayed kelp 4 less extreme blend. Today I sprayed prodiamine. There is rain forecast for tonight so should water everything in.

First time using a battery sprayer and I got to say it's great. One thing I didn't really like about lawn care was spraying with my old hand can sprayer. Now I'm looking forward to the next time I got to use it lol. I got a tee jet nozzle for it and the spray is great. You can tell it's more uniform coverage.

Snapped a couple pics this morning.





The green up is honestly ahead of schedule and well ahead of most lawns around. I attribute it to the heavy nitrogen last fall. It really shows it works.

I'm getting close to the first mow of the year. Can't wait to get the reel on it. I'd say in the next week I'll give it a cut.

If I'm talking about the good it's only fair I talk about the bad. The 500 sq ft side yard is lagging behind the main yard. For one it gets a lot more shade, two it developed some powdery mildew and fungus late last year and looked a bit rough from then and three we re did the fence at the side last year and it got a bit trampled. All these factors have made it slow to get going and much thinner than the main yard. I'm going to try and give it some spring nitrogen to try and thicken it up. I might also try to seed a couple areas by where we changed the fence and along the driveway. Because I might seed I didn't spray pre e on the side yard.

I also help out my next door neighbour sometimes with there yard. Last fall I overseeded there lawn with p rye. It has actually come it pretty good this spring. Much lighter green then the all KBG but not bad. With how fast p rye germinates and establishes it almost makes me want to use it to fill in the side yard... Almost lol.
Looks great!
 
#18 ·
@cfinden Thanks. The cost for the s3m soil test from waypoint is $16.50 USD. It's the same price whether your shipping from the states or from Canada. It worked out to be $22.64 CAD after conversion. Shipping was around $24 CAD by Canada post from Ontario to Memphis TN. You have to contact them and let them know you want to ship from outside the states and they will send you some forms to include in and on your box to get it across the border.

On a separate note I mowed the lawn for the first time today with the 220e. All I can say is it's going to take some getting used to lol. The mower really pulls strong when you have the throttle high and is quite a beast once you get mowing.

The grass really hasn't grown all that much yet but it was starting to need a cut. I had the mower on the highest setting which is just above 1.3" I believe. I thought to start high and gradually go lower. The grass handled the HOC great and I'll be lowering for the next cut. Goal is to keep it around 1" for the year.

The most noticeable thing is the awesome stripes it leaves. The weight of the mower and rear rollers really are good for stripes. Plus the cut quality is instantly better that the rotary. The grass blades are so cleanly cut.

I didn't take a picture today but will after the next cut.
 
#20 ·
The 220E has a strong engine, just feather the drive to start and anticipate your ends. Stop sooner and then feather the last 10in if you are close to something.

I'm not a YouTube personality, but someone should make a video on how to use a greensmower in suburbia.
 
#21 ·
Pete1313 said:
Can't wait to see some pics! :thumbsup:
Will definitely get some pics from the next mowing. I was finishing up installing a retaining wall in the backyard for the gardens so it was a rushed first mow. First sunny and warm day here for what seems like forever so wanted to get through as much as I could.

g-man said:
The 220E has a strong engine, just feather the drive to start and anticipate your ends. Stop sooner and then feather the last 10in if you are close to something.

I'm not a YouTube personality, but someone should make a video on how to use a greensmower in suburbia.
It took a while for me to start figuring it out. Stopping before you reach the end of a run is definitely the way to go. I had a plan before I started on how I was going to use the mower. Two perimeter passes and then straight runs. Problem was as soon as I started I was so excited everything went out the window haha. I was cutting wildly and in all directions. I think I'll do better the next time. Hopefully.
 
#22 ·
Mowed again today. Had a much easier time using the mower. Starting to get the hang of it.

I also dropped .50lb N/M of AMS and 1lb K/M SOP.

The lawn is still getting going but I'm hoping to give some extra N this spring to fill in some still thin areas.

Here's a pic from after the mow today. Stripes are not straight at all but it's just the second mow. I'll get things figured out soon.



I left the mower on the highest setting but will probably lower it for the next cut.