you've got fungus. the last picture you can see the lesions on the blades pretty clearly. You need a curative rate of fungicide.

Also, don't water every day. twice a week is a better option and water it for longer. You need to audit how much water you're putting down per time so that you know it in inches. Minutes doesn't mean anything per se.

 

Azoxystrobin asap.

 

Would this work? Looks like the active ingredient is Azoxystrobin.

Scotts DiseaseEx 10 lbs. Treats Up to 5,000 sq. ft. Lawn Fungicide Controls and Prevents Disease Up to 4 Weeks 37610C - The Home Depot

Confiscate debris or leaves out of your lawn at maximum water pressure by choosing this Scotts ft Disease Ex Fungicide for Lawns.

www.homedepot.com

 

I will work on figuring that out for sure. I think for now it's probably best to let the soil dry out some before watering again? I'll apply the DiseaseEx tonight.

 

The Disease-Ex has to be watered in.

 

Yes, I read that. I'm going to figure out my water in inches while I'm doing that.

 

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

Use the curative rate. Reapply in 2 weeks.

 

While I agree is probably fungus, These pictures are not good enough to see actual fungus. The yard across the street is totally brown. This is increases the probablitiy that this is heat stress.

Before i bought a granular fungicide, i would apply N and double my watering. IN a few days the entire east cost will cool down and cool season grass will be fixed.

That being said, If i already had a spray fungicide i would apply.

 

While I agree is probably fungus, These pictures are not good enough to see actual fungus. The yard across the street is totally brown. This is increases the probablitiy that this is heat stress.

Before i bought a granular fungicide, i would apply N and double my watering. IN a few days the entire east cost will cool down and cool season grass will be fixed.

That being said, If i already had a spray fungicide i would apply.

I agree with robjak. Azoxy might not do anything for it. I got hit with fungus very similar to this late july. I try to never use fungicides but have leftover disease-ex from a couple years ago. it did nothing for it. In fact, it got worse. Azoxy doesn't cure dollar spot so I'm starting to think it's that. I picked up a $10 bottle of spectracide which has propiconazole in it and applied a few days ago. I also threw down over 1lb/N and increased watering. That seems to be what turned it around but it's hard to say for sure because the weather is cooling down. The cooler weather and restart of growth should allow the lawn to grow out of the dollar spot regardless of if any fungicides are applied. Just my 2c.

 

The images are not clear. It could also be dollar spot and azoxy doesn't help. Your lawn looks too long and that doesn't help.

 

Too long? I actually raised my mow height because of the heat. I should bring it back down?

 

What was your Height of Cut (HOC)?

 

Honestly don't know. I'm pretty new to the lawn world and I'm learning a lot as I go. I'll measure it tonight. Recommendations? I usually get to mow twice a week but sometimes only once.

 

Amazon.com : mower blade height gauge

 

Ordered!

 

What are you using to cut the grass? Mower model

 

 

If the grass cannot stand up, then it is too long.

 

So I lowered my mower two notches and mowed tonight. Using the gauge, my HOC measures 3". But when I actually measure the grass, it's about 2".

 

Also, a closeup of a pulled grass piece.

 

There is a lot of grass in the first pictures that are not at 3 in.

 

I know, that's what I'm confused about. None of it is at 3" even though that's what the blades measure at with the gauge. When I measure the actual grass, it's all at 2" or just above that.

 

If you mow in the opposite direction, will it cut more grass?

 

How are you doing after this massive weather change? Hopefully the cooler air has helped your lawn!

 

Just cooled down yesterday and got over an inch of rain. I'm hoping to see some of the spots start healing in the next couple days.

 

When you have potential fungus issues
New blades or sharpen your blades, bag everything and dispose of off site. Clean your mower after each use.
As far as Mower Hight and or HOC
It can be tough finding the “right” height for your lawn
Mixed lawns like mine KBG, TTTF and Ryes . I fought with my HOC for a while
HRX 217 at highest setting I liked a lot
Touch under 4” mowed at 5” , with the HRX it does best if you cut less than 1.25” off at a time
Wife and kids hated it , like walking green snow ……

I found the 3.5 setting to be a happy middle ground . I also found getting it down to 2” by mid Oct makes for a cleaner/greener spring up

Its amazing how much more will cut on a second pass .
I have areas where the grass just flops even at lower HOC
I have had to mow the area. Fluff it up with the leaf blower and mow again usually crossing 45’ angles.

 

Your lawn looks really thick—great job! In my experience, when a lawn is that dense and irrigated, it tends to respond best to being mowed at 3 inches or less. I don’t have scientific data to back it up, but over the years I’ve consistently found that thicker lawns prefer a shorter cut. If the grass is a bit thinner, you can usually get away with mowing higher.

This past summer, I was mowing mine at 3.5 inches (also irrigated), but next year I plan to drop it to 3 or even 2.5 inches. While my lawn is thick and healthy, I noticed that at 3.5 inches it struggles to dry out properly during humid conditions with high dew points. Interestingly, the few thinner patches don’t seem to have that issue at the same height. Of course, there are many variables at play, but that’s been my personal observation.

One thing I’ve noticed is that the taller and thicker the lawn, especially when irrigated, the more prone it seems to be to fungal issues. It just doesn’t dry out as easily. That might contradict some of the research out there, but in my case, it’s been a consistent pattern. So I try to strike a balance between height and density to help prevent fungus, while still using fungicide when needed (preventative mostly).

Also, once temperatures cool down (if they haven’t already), you might consider mowing at 2 to 2.5 inches to help clear out some of the dead grass from mowing high for a while. It’ll thin things out slightly and improve the overall look before you return to your preferred height. Timing that right before a fertilizer application would be good.

Again, this is just based on my own experience, so take it with a grain of salt. Every lawn is different, but I figured I'd share in case it was helpful. Good luck moving forward!

 

I think it looks a lot better with a double mow. And it also seems to get the whole lawn more even.

 

I will say, when I mow my yard at 3.5 inches, I always feel like it can use a second pass. When my HOC is around 3 inches, I feel like it has a better overall look in terms of the crispness of the cut and doesn't need a second pass. I have a Honda HRX217 for what its worth.

 

Factory settings for your mower are

AI Overview

To set the height of cut (HOC) on a Toro 22" Recycler mower, move the cutting height levers on each wheel to the desired position. The standard height settings for this mower typically include positions for 1", 1-3/8", 1-3/4", 2-1/8", 2-1/2", 2-7/8", 3-1/4", 3-5/8", and 4".