[SCGrassMan]

Subtitled "How to burn a bridge with your irrigtion guy".

So those who have seen my grass journal, are aware I have some dry areas. They're improving with increased watering. Part of it was probably Rachio settings. Most of it though was nozzle selection and head placement.

I need to add at least two heads that I know of, and I need to change two-three nozzles that I know of.

I really had it out with the irrigation installer yesterday, who had been dodging my emails and texts, and long story short, looks like I'll be fixing this myself.

Step 1, and what I need help with initially, is making a good drawing. I could do pen and paper if I have to, but would prefer some kind of free CAD software like maybe Google Sketchup. I took lots of pictures during installation, so I'm fairly confident where all the lines run etc. A big part of my issue with the irrigation guy is he flat out refused to draw up a plan. I ignored my gut and just let him put things where he wanted.

Step 2, once I do that, will be adding heads and changing nozzles. Most of my system is made up of MP Rotators of various flavors.

One of the areas I have issues is the yellow cap nozzles that spray straight out in a circle. The side walk has 4 heads spread across three sections. Two of them are "Bow Tie" nozzles that spray out sideways, and a little bit forward. That area is fine and not dry. The other two are those yellow nozzles, and not getting great coverage, and the heads are sputtering despite adjustment and cleaning.

Step 3, will be adjusting the programming on the Rachio, and getting that nailed down.

That being said, if I could tag a few of you in that I definitely want input from, please help! @Topcat , @Ware , @Greendoc and probably many more I'm forgetting.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Ware]

If you have experience with AutoCAD, I would check out DraftSight as a free alternative. A member here (I forget who) mentioned they work for the company that offers it.

Once you get some drawings it will be easier to see what you're working with.

 

[Ecks from Tex]

Autocad is good, but I wanted to get a more visual concept drawing for my plans. Here is my concept drawing as of the last time I worked on it. It's overlayed on my house survey as close as I can get to 1 inch = 25 ft. It's not as mathematically accurate as autocad, but when I do begin work I am going to actually measure and flag the lawn to ensure h-to-h coverage. Having it perfectly mapped out in the design is less of a concern to me since I'm doing the installation, and my greater concern is calculating the correct pressure/GPM requirements for the planned number of heads (and being able to recalculate quickly if I feel additional heads are needed), having the correct zones in place for my drip systems, and utilizing as much of my existing underground pvc as possible.

System & Electrical Map (Draft)


Coverage Map (Draft; spray head calculations not yet finished)

 

[TC2]

Did you manage to get, or do you know, your system GPM? I'll bet a lot of irrigation "laziness" is due to keeping the sprinkler head count within zone limits and zone number to a minimum.

 

[Greendoc]

Good point. @SCGrassMan said something about heads sputtering. That can happen when someone cheats on either the GPM of each zone or else pipe size. There is a myth in the irrigation industry that pressure is magically increased by putting water through small pipe. Yes and no. That increased pressure is the dynamic pressure at the point where the pipe size is decreased. However that also means that there is a substantial pressure loss at the end of that line. I have been known to design entire irrigation systems not downsizing pipes. I start with say, 1" and use it throughout.

 

[SCGrassMan]

We get, according to the town, 10-20 GPM at 40+ PSI here. I can run all other heads with no issues - its just the yellow cap ones, and I think its because they're turned way down. We can run the shower, dishwasher, and laundry at the same time with no issues here, so I'm 99% sure its not that. Also there's only 4 heads on that zone.

 

[SCGrassMan]

@Ecks from Tex what program did you use

 

[Ecks from Tex]

@Ecks from Tex what program did you use

You will laugh but Microsoft Word. I'm a word master

 

[SCGrassMan]

I had a coworker who could basically program with Excel.

 

[rrmiller32]

We get, according to the town, 10-20 GPM at 40+ PSI here. I can run all other heads with no issues - its just the yellow cap ones, and I think its because they're turned way down. We can run the shower, dishwasher, and laundry at the same time with no issues here, so I'm 99% sure its not that. Also there's only 4 heads on that zone.

I've notices the few MP's that I've turned down a lot do not run as consistently as the ones turned all the way up or even slightly down.

 

[SCGrassMan]

Yeah this isn't a rotator it's the yellow cap spray nozzle. I'm not sure the model but I know I need something different.

 

[zeus201]

Subtitled "How to burn a bridge with your irrigtion guy".

Step 1, and what I need help with initially, is making a good drawing. I could do pen and paper if I have to, but would prefer some kind of free CAD software like maybe Google Sketchup. I took lots of pictures during installation, so I'm fairly confident where all the lines run etc. A big part of my issue with the irrigation guy is he flat out refused to draw up a plan. I ignored my gut and just let him put things where he wanted.

Thanks in advance!

I used Autodesk Autocad 2018 to plot everything using assortment of MP1000/2000s.

 

[Greendoc]

Yeah this isn't a rotator it's the yellow cap spray nozzle. I'm not sure the model but I know I need something different.

Those are the 4 ft Rainbird VAN nozzles. They have no business on an irrigation system running with MP Rotators. Refresh my memory, but what is the configuration with dimensions of the area that those VAN nozzles were installed? As well as placement within the area.

 

[SCGrassMan]

Yeah this isn't a rotator it's the yellow cap spray nozzle. I'm not sure the model but I know I need something different.

Those are the 4 ft Rainbird VAN nozzles. They have no business on an irrigation system running with MP Rotators. Refresh my memory, but what is the configuration with dimensions of the area that those VAN nozzles were installed? As well as placement within the area.

It's a strip along the side walk like this:

Van nozzle TREE bow tie nozzle bow tie nozzle DRIVEWAY van nozzle

So basically a sidewalk strip about 40' long total, but the yellow nozzles are at each end where it's like a 3'-6' section by two feet deep.

My whole system is MP rotators except that strip which is all spray nozzles. My he'll strip was the black cap spray nozzles but I changed them out for orange cap strip rotators.

 

[SCGrassMan]

@Greendoc here's a picture of the strip in question

 

[Greendoc]

I want to see those nozzles at every corner of those strips and nozzles spaced in such a way that they face each other going down the entire strip. Putting spray nozzles so they face each other and are in the corners ensures even coverage with minimal run time. What I see now means you will have to run the zone too long to get enough water on all of the area.

 

[g-man]

:thumbup:

 

[Greendoc]

If the strip is only 24" wide I also want to see each nozzle 24" apart. Professional installer, "don't worry about it". "I got it". Those are the words of a jackwagon. Now that you put up the pictures of the install in operation, I fully understand what happened. This is typical for an install in Hawaii as well. Fixed nozzles not spaced such that their spacing is equal to the radius they have to cover.

 

[SCGrassMan]

If the strip is only 24" wide I also want to see each nozzle 24" apart. Professional installer, "don't worry about it". "I got it". Those are the words of a jackwagon. Now that you put up the pictures of the install in operation, I fully understand what happened. This is typical for an install in Hawaii as well. Fixed nozzles not spaced such that their spacing is equal to the radius they have to cover.

When I get free from work, I'm going to draw out what is there, with measurements, and ask if yall wouldn't mind helping me fix this. I guess I'm just going to need to dig up those pretty little patches of sod and do it correctly :evil:

 

[SCGrassMan]

He said he didn't want to put them in the corners or along the road so nobody would park on them. Which I get, but still, worst case, its what, $20 or less in parts to repair? Versus how much for dead sod?