Rich Imlay of Jonathan Green
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I think If your talking about synthetic fertilizers, if you fertilized properly the previous fall, early spring fertilizing isn't usually necessary/good for the lawn. If you didn't fertilize enough the previous year I believe adding a small amount of N in the early spring is ok.
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I've watched this video a few times. I do that with Rich Imlay videos because I try to catch all his little remarks. About the fertilizing timing he says "Jersey is different", meaning, presumably, the ocean climate is different than more inland places.
Interesting video. I assume no one who has commented so far are either of the two guys in the video. Ok then, I'll join that brigade and offer my comments and questions...
When he's talking about Milorganite, I think what he said--March, May, early August, and late September--makes sense for South Jersey...except maybe March.
Now, he says fungicides don't kill fungi. Is this true?
When he says the homeowner should put down synthetic Nitrogen in the early Spring, it sounds like he's talking specifically about a lawn that is damaged from snow mold, and has red thread. I don't want to take that out of context. Still, he never says how much he believes should be used. That's like a doctor saying he feels you should take Tylenol at the first sign of pain, don't you think?
He says, "I don't see dollar spot. You've got patch."
What is "patch" disease"? Does he mean Brown Patch"? Is he trying to be cryptic or is that just his style?
"10% Blue (grass) is really 20-something percent Blue (grass)." What does this mean?
He is heavily promoting their seed mix with Poa Triv for shade, but at the same time doesn't like Fine Fescue. Remind me again...why do most of us not like Triv?
Was anyone else concerned by how short most of his answers to the questions were? If I ask questions like the ones the host was asking, where he took time to formulate full thoughts, I want to hear a reply that makes me think and learn something...not just a short, truncated answer, and that's the end of it. How do you learn from that? Whenever I had a teacher who answered questions in that way, I never learned much from those answers.
When he's talking about Milorganite, I think what he said--March, May, early August, and late September--makes sense for South Jersey...except maybe March.
Now, he says fungicides don't kill fungi. Is this true?
When he says the homeowner should put down synthetic Nitrogen in the early Spring, it sounds like he's talking specifically about a lawn that is damaged from snow mold, and has red thread. I don't want to take that out of context. Still, he never says how much he believes should be used. That's like a doctor saying he feels you should take Tylenol at the first sign of pain, don't you think?
He says, "I don't see dollar spot. You've got patch."
What is "patch" disease"? Does he mean Brown Patch"? Is he trying to be cryptic or is that just his style?
"10% Blue (grass) is really 20-something percent Blue (grass)." What does this mean?
He is heavily promoting their seed mix with Poa Triv for shade, but at the same time doesn't like Fine Fescue. Remind me again...why do most of us not like Triv?
Was anyone else concerned by how short most of his answers to the questions were? If I ask questions like the ones the host was asking, where he took time to formulate full thoughts, I want to hear a reply that makes me think and learn something...not just a short, truncated answer, and that's the end of it. How do you learn from that? Whenever I had a teacher who answered questions in that way, I never learned much from those answers.
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I can answer a couple of your questions.
Fungicide - he's right, fungicide just slows the disease down to the point where the grass can out grow it.
Bluegrass - he isn't clear here, but what he is talking about is seed size versus seed weight. Bluegrass seeds are much smaller than those of other grasses, but they are packaged by %weight, so the actual seed count is higher.
He is very terse with some of his answers, you're right.
Fungicide - he's right, fungicide just slows the disease down to the point where the grass can out grow it.
Bluegrass - he isn't clear here, but what he is talking about is seed size versus seed weight. Bluegrass seeds are much smaller than those of other grasses, but they are packaged by %weight, so the actual seed count is higher.
He is very terse with some of his answers, you're right.
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@Green I can tell you first hand, I'm pretty pissed about the poa trivialis in the shady nooks seed! I bought a bag and put it down before knowing anything about poa and now are trying to get rid of it!
Their black beauty ultra is a decent seed blend, but is actually higher priced than the bag I got from Hogan. Learning about options is the key with all of it, and you guys have already taught me a ton.
Their black beauty ultra is a decent seed blend, but is actually higher priced than the bag I got from Hogan. Learning about options is the key with all of it, and you guys have already taught me a ton.
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In one of his other videos he said (in reference to Pre-M) "Forget about that 'When the Forsythia blooms' and wait to put down your prem". Like others mention above, he doesn't really explain why that approach is wrong.
We can only speculate. My guess would be that it's because crabgrass doesn't begin to germinate until around May 1st in our area. I would expect Central NJ to be 1 week earlier. Problem is, Crabgrass (why do I keep capitalizing it, since we dislike it, lol?) isn't the only thing that people use a pre-M for. And some of those things do germinate earlier. Plus, if you put it down in early May, and you use the full rate, you might have issues overseeding in August. Or, what if you're waiting for rain to water it in, and that rain never comes?jessehurlburt said:
This is why I'm not a fan of blanket statements and just telling people they're wrong about something, with no room for negotiation. If scientists had that attitude, there would probably be a lot less new discoveries.
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Rich IMlay was never inaccurate
Looks like they removed it in the latest batches of this seed, 3 years later. I'm not sure how long it'll stay that way, but it's gone for now.
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