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Remodel Renovation

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730 views 21 replies 4 participants last post by  Lauerw  
#1 · (Edited)
Last year, I bought a hoarder home. It was a total gut job. There are a few things that remain, chief of which is the lawn. The existing "lawn" on the house had not be kept up for many many years. It was 99% weeds, the most prevalent of which was probably alfalfa strangely enough. I am targeting a seed down date of this coming Sunday, August 24 (to try and take advantage of cooler weather the following week). Bear in mind - I live in a high mountain desert environment (eastern Idaho). First frost is expected September 30.

This is what I've done thus far:
  • All summer
    • Didn't water once. Many of the weeds and what little turf grass existed died off
  • July 15
    • Began daily watering in an attempt to induce growth
  • July 19
    • "Tilled" much of the existing yard with a skid steer as I removed a concrete ADA access ramp
  • July 30
    • 1st application of glyphosate
  • August 16
    • Power rake and aerate
  • August 20 (today) - final application of glyphosate. Largely what appears to be crabgrass remains.
My plan, of which I would welcome criticism, is:
  • August 23
    • Level with topsoil
  • August 24
    • Apply Tenacity
    • Seed (Resilience II TTTF blend from Twin City Seed)
    • Roll out
    • Cover with peat moss
    • Water like a mf
I do not have a soil test for the topsoil I will be laying down to level the lawn. Soil test of the native soil shows elevated levels of P, K, and N (62.4, 638, and 49.7 mg/kg, respectively). Recommendations from the extension agency were to add zero of all. Because of this, I plan to not use any starter fertilizer. Is that a mistake given that I'll be adding unknown topsoil over the top?

The day I took possession

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State of original lawn

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Current state

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#2 ·
I’m fairly new as well so take this with a grain of salt. It seems to me that you don’t have enough time for a successful reno. Basically 30 ish days before frost, seems like most guys here like 100-120 days for establishment. Grass will be quite young. Also from most of my reading here most recommend fallowing fresh topsoil with gly for a couple of weeks to prevent weeds. Is the crab grass dead yet? Not knowing if you are flipping the house or not but if you are keeping it I would do this next summer. I’m quite certain others will be along with more experience than I to provide input. Welcome to the club.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the reply!

100-120 days in my area is not doable, unfortunately. I'd be attempting to plant in consistent triple-digit temps. I'll have to make due - that's why I selected TTTF. Attempting to get it germinated and growing asap. If any bare spots arise, that's something I'll have to sort out in the spring.

The majority of the crab grass is dead. I'll apply pre-emergent in the spring in an attempt to contain what remains.

The plan is to flip the place and find another! Just wanting to give the next owner a nice, healthy lawn (and some curb appeal come time to sell in the spring).
 
#7 · (Edited)
I delayed my seeding date until Labor Day, 9/1. This was for two reasons: last week we were expected to see a significant amount of rain... and we ended up getting more in two days than the previous 4 months' combined. Thank god I didn't. Also, I had a 4-day trip to Vegas immediately after. So. Labor day it was.

Cultivated the top ~2", leveled, and spread seed on Monday. I didn't get it baseball infield level, but it's way better than it was! Came back Tuesday AM, rolled it in and put down ~1/4" of peat moss. I entirely forgot about tenacity in my rush to get this done and get back to work/normal life chores. Fortunately I've done a few good rounds of glyphosate and there's minimal weed pressure to start.

I thought I had my irrigation sorted. Turns out... not true. Peat moss does a fantastic job of telling you where your irrigation failures are, though. Spent yesterday afternoon adjusting, fiddling, adding zones, etc... got it all watered in well, and JUST as I'm wrapping up to go home, all water flow stopped.

My well pump is dead. I have a well company coming out to look at it this afternoon.... but I'm gutted. They're going to have to drive over my lawn to access it (in the back right corner in the photo). I'm worried that after soaking everything yesterday afternoon then letting it dry, all my work will be for not (naught?). Le sigh.

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#9 · (Edited)
22 hours' worth of stress, worry, and a shitload of work... I got the well pump pulled and replaced. Turns out it was original to the house - installed in 1975. It had a ground fault. I replaced the wiring with modern submersible wiring while I was at it. We're back in business with water, but I'm afraid that the seed, which had a full day sans water (and largely dried after its initial watering), will not germinate well after the wet-dry cycle immediately post-seeding.

That said... I've gotten done what I can. I can't control any more now. We will wait and see. If it comes down to it, I can always re-renovate in the spring.

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#11 · (Edited)
Came back from 6 days away (not my choice) and we officially have green haze. After the shenanigans of last week I’m beyond chuffed that the irrigation system held.

It must have rained while I was away - there’s some significant washout below the roofline. So be it - a spring overseed will hopefully patch it right up.

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#14 ·
As long as you have germination don't worry about the height difference. What I noticed on a few renovations is shady areas are usually longer more germination than sunny areas but eventually catch up. Full germination is the goal
 
#19 ·
20 DAS. Fertilizer application was thwarted by rain today - hopeful that tomorrow I can make it happen. It’s looking decent from afar… not quite so great from close range 😆 .

There are a number of thin spots where germination just wasn’t as good for whatever reason. See picture 3. I’m assuming these will thicken up to an acceptable degree? I’ve never grown TTTF previously - any thoughts appreciated. Spring overseed and call it good?

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#21 ·
Got another mow in the morning. HOC is staying at 2”. Could use some advice on putting it away for winter. I’ve read that TTTF HOC for winter should be brought down to 2.5”. I’m already at 2… should I leave it there?

New soffits and exterior doors have been installed - siding will go up in the coming weeks. Lots of work, this place is. Hopefully it’ll look more put together with a reasonable facade.

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