Assuming I understand that you are growing it higher to kill the quackgrass (successfully), and then want to know what to do after… taller grass (within expected range of the grass type) will likely be more healthy and able to fill and out crowd weeds. Quackgrass tends to hide underground so if you can prevent it from getting sunlight, it will keep trying to grow (if still alive) until it runs out of reserve energy. My vote is keep it higher. If/when you decide to bring it down, it should be fine as long as you do it gradually and consistently over time.
Quackgrass in KBG - What HOC is best to out grow it\mow it out?
I'm in Zone 4a with ~5 year old KBG lawn although this is only my 2nd spring with it. Last year I put down lots of fertilizer throughout the year and this spring it seems the quack is exploding because of it. My understanding is this is partly a good thing because it will better allow me to get glyphosate into actively growing rhizomes, but there's just no way I'm going to be able to brush\glove of death all of the quack. I'm also surrounded by quack on all 3 corners.
I normally like things at 2 1/8", but I'm allowing it to grow much taller right now so it's easier to nuke the quack. My question is, is it better to maintain a lower or higher HOC afterwords for the rest of the season? I have seen people say quack doesn't like to be cut low, but it also tends to lay out horizontally and part me of me wonders if taller (3-3.5") and thick KBG would do a better job of crowding it out\prevent it from getting sunlight? With either height of cut, my plan is to really push the grass and cut every 3-4 days.
I normally like things at 2 1/8", but I'm allowing it to grow much taller right now so it's easier to nuke the quack. My question is, is it better to maintain a lower or higher HOC afterwords for the rest of the season? I have seen people say quack doesn't like to be cut low, but it also tends to lay out horizontally and part me of me wonders if taller (3-3.5") and thick KBG would do a better job of crowding it out\prevent it from getting sunlight? With either height of cut, my plan is to really push the grass and cut every 3-4 days.
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Mowing out a grass like quack grass is about mowing frequency. It wants to be tall and puts lots of energy into quick growth. Mowing shorter every few days will “tire” the plant out. Basically mow it such that you are following the 1/3 rule for the Kbg but not following it for the quack grass.
I dont know if what I have is quackgrass but it definitely wants to grow tall! I hate it .
I have my mower set as high as I can go and been rotating weed be gone safe for lawn products and it seems to weaken it and last season I was able to clear about 2000 ft2 of it so far. Working on another area. This crap came in with some compost/loam mix
I have my mower set as high as I can go and been rotating weed be gone safe for lawn products and it seems to weaken it and last season I was able to clear about 2000 ft2 of it so far. Working on another area. This crap came in with some compost/loam mix
I mowed for the second time this year today at 3-5/8" and perhaps I'll move it down a notch every 2 weeks to break the 1/3 rule for the quack. I almost always follow the 1/3 rule, but broke it today.
It wasn't very easy to glove-in-a-glove glyphosate the quack because my KBG was pushing 6+ inches in the same areas. 2 days later I see a tiny amount of damage at the tips of larger quack blades.
I've also got brome grass and meadow foxtail in the yard, but this patch is mostly quack after a fresh cut. This is my second spring with this lawn and the previous home owners watered the front yard more than the rest, and it has the least quack (2nd image is that)
![Plant Terrestrial plant Grass Groundcover Grassland]()
![Plant Green People in nature Terrestrial plant Grassland]()
It wasn't very easy to glove-in-a-glove glyphosate the quack because my KBG was pushing 6+ inches in the same areas. 2 days later I see a tiny amount of damage at the tips of larger quack blades.
I've also got brome grass and meadow foxtail in the yard, but this patch is mostly quack after a fresh cut. This is my second spring with this lawn and the previous home owners watered the front yard more than the rest, and it has the least quack (2nd image is that)
Fighting the same battle
3.5” HOC and been using Ortho weed be gone for lawns per directions.
Its not killing it straight out but its definitely causing it to stress out.
I also applied gly by glove and small dripper bottle. Ive reduced my problem by 60 % since spring 2022
3.5” HOC and been using Ortho weed be gone for lawns per directions.
Its not killing it straight out but its definitely causing it to stress out.
I also applied gly by glove and small dripper bottle. Ive reduced my problem by 60 % since spring 2022
Having quackgrass for many years and it surviving through a renovation, it is safe to say any amount of mowing and mowing heights will not get rid of it. Its rhizomatous roots will always prevail sending up new shoots to tower over your grass.
My advice is the white glove of death method. I've been on squatting through my yard since last fall and 50% glyphosate concentrate, 50% water, and some NIS is the kiss of death.
It is extremely overwhelming, but one bite at a time and you will slowly get it. Stay determined and it will be gone with time.
This or switch your cultivar to ProVista *** and spray Glyphosate to your hearts content.
My advice is the white glove of death method. I've been on squatting through my yard since last fall and 50% glyphosate concentrate, 50% water, and some NIS is the kiss of death.
It is extremely overwhelming, but one bite at a time and you will slowly get it. Stay determined and it will be gone with time.
This or switch your cultivar to ProVista *** and spray Glyphosate to your hearts content.
While a non selective herbicide will work best, I have had luck suppressing and killing quackgrass with tenacity and then fusilade (at the Bermuda grass removal rates). You have to be careful as the ai in fusilade will kill most grasses (slowly) so you have to be sure to apply a rate that will allow your wanted grass to survive. I have some spots if quack still remaining but waiting to kill it after some young grass is more mature. In the meantime tenacity is suppressing it.
At the Bermuda rate for Fusilade, what percentage kill off did you have in your ***?While a non selective herbicide will work best, I have had luck suppressing and killing quackgrass with tenacity and then fusilade (at the Bermuda grass removal rates). You have to be careful as the ai in fusilade will kill most grasses (slowly) so you have to be sure to apply a rate that will allow your wanted grass to survive. I have some spots if quack still remaining but waiting to kill it after some young grass is more mature. In the meantime tenacity is suppressing it.
Do you have pictures of the end result? I am very interested in your outcome!
I'm afraid I'm now at the same conclusion. I mixed 1 part to 3 gly to water and although I'm seeing kill on quack that had the majority of the blades covered, it's not doing much where I was only able to touch the tips of the blades.Having quackgrass for many years and it surviving through a renovation, it is safe to say any amount of mowing and mowing heights will not get rid of it. Its rhizomatous roots will always prevail sending up new shoots to tower over your grass.
My advice is the white glove of death method. I've been on squatting through my yard since last fall and 50% glyphosate concentrate, 50% water, and some NIS is the kiss of death.
It is extremely overwhelming, but one bite at a time and you will slowly get it. Stay determined and it will be gone with time.
This or switch your cultivar to ProVista *** and spray Glyphosate to your hearts content.
A ProVista renovation is probably the only way forward for me. I'm going to try Plan B for the next season or two before I'm willing to do that though, and that's, fertilize and mow like hell.
I also don't think mowing high is going to work at all. The quack just gets tall and then lays down sideways and isn't getting crowded out when it's more vertical. My current game plan has changed to lowering my HOC from ~3.5+ to 1.75 over the coming month so I'll at least bag a bunch of quack. Then I'll dethatch with a SunJoe that will rip out the sideways quack (that worked pretty well last fall.)
I did a broadcast spray of tenacity last spring and it did whiten the quack. I've also tested Ornamec 170 which is a less concentrated version of fusilade and does indeed kill quack when spot sprayed, but does a number on my KBG.While a non selective herbicide will work best, I have had luck suppressing and killing quackgrass with tenacity and then fusilade (at the Bermuda grass removal rates). You have to be careful as the ai in fusilade will kill most grasses (slowly) so you have to be sure to apply a rate that will allow your wanted grass to survive. I have some spots if quack still remaining but waiting to kill it after some young grass is more mature. In the meantime tenacity is suppressing it.
Like @Stock Car Mafia said, please share more on this. What's your turf type?
I’m trying to figure out what to do as well. Tenacity did turn it white but recovered. Quinclorac seems to injury it but I don’t think it’s dying.
I mow every 3 days at 2.5 and am going to try to keep that up plus spoon feed throughout the season along with watering.
I’m also going to paint roundup or gly. I might just set the roundup nozzle so it doesn’t broadcast spray so I can try and hit it and deal with any collateral damage.
It’s the only thing left preventing my yard from being how I want it.
Best of luck
I mow every 3 days at 2.5 and am going to try to keep that up plus spoon feed throughout the season along with watering.
I’m also going to paint roundup or gly. I might just set the roundup nozzle so it doesn’t broadcast spray so I can try and hit it and deal with any collateral damage.
It’s the only thing left preventing my yard from being how I want it.
Best of luck
Thats what I did for a tough weed out break.I’m trying to figure out what to do as well. Tenacity did turn it white but recovered. Quinclorac seems to injury it but I don’t think it’s dying.
I mow every 3 days at 2.5 and am going to try to keep that up plus spoon feed throughout the season along with watering.
I’m also going to paint roundup or gly. I might just set the roundup nozzle so it doesn’t broadcast spray so I can try and hit it and deal with any collateral damage.
It’s the only thing left preventing my yard from being how I want it.
Best of luck
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