I've been burned two years in a row and had to renovate twice because of it. If by season long you mean late May through September, that's what I'm looking to do due to the hot, humid weather in East Tennessee during those months.
Preventative fungicide app... every 14 or 30 days?
I'm curious what everyone is doing. The last 2 seasons I rotated my fungicides every 30 days, thinking I may try every 14 days this season. Thoughts?
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Have you seen this?https://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/pb842.pdfI've been burned two years in a row and had to renovate twice because of it. If by season long you mean late May through September, that's what I'm looking to do due to the hot, humid weather in East Tennessee during those months.
This is not confusing at all. Every azoxy label says you can go 3X. If you have pythium you should be using mefenoxam anyway.My honest opinion is that doing season long programs are overkill for a homeowner. But that’s what you seemed to be asking about .
Pssst.......KBG, tall fescue and other cool season grasses are not native plants. Of course we need a season long fungicide program to keep them looking good.
Plenty of people get by with less than 100% preventive coverage. To each his own — I’m not saying it’s wrong.
That being said, I don’t know anybody who considers 3x applied over a period of 8 weeks to qualify as ”season long coverage.”
Again, here’s the standard instructions for a season long plan which uses QoI fungicides:
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Some people, especially among hobbyist homeowners, could find this confusing. The evidence is all over this forum. I don’t know what else to say. I didn’t write the labels but I actually do try to read them. The 3x rule doesn’t apply when GLS or Pythium is present; in that case it’s 2x. It’s on the label. Azoxystrobin doesn’t treat DS. It’s on the label.
You seem hellbent on trying to talk down to me, but the fact is I correctly contradicted your original advice advice as you now admit that Azoxystrobin + Propiconazole is a better fit for the diseases alleged. I feel that pretty much says it all.
I read the article you posted, and while it is very interesting, and hell it might even be valid for eastern Tennessee, it might also not be.
That being said, I don’t know anybody who considers 3x applied over a period of 8 weeks to qualify as ”season long coverage.”
Again, here’s the standard instructions for a season long plan which uses QoI fungicides:
Some people, especially among hobbyist homeowners, could find this confusing. The evidence is all over this forum. I don’t know what else to say. I didn’t write the labels but I actually do try to read them. The 3x rule doesn’t apply when GLS or Pythium is present; in that case it’s 2x. It’s on the label. Azoxystrobin doesn’t treat DS. It’s on the label.
You seem hellbent on trying to talk down to me, but the fact is I correctly contradicted your original advice advice as you now admit that Azoxystrobin + Propiconazole is a better fit for the diseases alleged. I feel that pretty much says it all.
I read the article you posted, and while it is very interesting, and hell it might even be valid for eastern Tennessee, it might also not be.
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I’m no longer following this thread. PM me if needed.
So many things wrong with this post. First, 3X at 28 days = 84 days or almost 3 mos. With tall fescue, most of us are looking to get through June, July and August with minimal damage. Second, the post assumes there are chemicals that are as effective as azoxystrobin so "why not rotate to those asap". The fact is that azoxystrobin is the most effective, residential labeled fungicide on the market for brown patch. If you're growing tall fescue, BP is what you should be concerned with. Dollar spot is rarely a signficant issue next to brown patch.Plenty of people get by with less than 100% preventive coverage. To each his own — I’m not saying it’s wrong.
That being said, I don’t know anybody who considers 3x applied over a period of 8 weeks to qualify as ”season long coverage.”
Again, here’s the standard instructions for a season long plan which uses QoI fungicides:
View attachment 16011
Some people, especially among hobbyist homeowners, could find this confusing. The evidence is all over this forum. I don’t know what else to say. I didn’t write the labels but I actually do try to read them. The 3x rule doesn’t apply when GLS or Pythium is present; in that case it’s 2x. It’s on the label. Azoxystrobin doesn’t treat DS. It’s on the label.
You seem hellbent on trying to talk down to me, but the fact is I correctly contradicted your original advice advice as you now admit that Azoxystrobin + Propiconazole is a better fit for the diseases alleged. I feel that pretty much says it all.
I read the article you posted, and while it is very interesting, and hell it might even be valid for eastern Tennessee, it might also not be.
I am new to the battle of fungiSo many things wrong with this post. First, 3X at 28 days = 84 days or almost 3 mos. With tall fescue, most of us are looking to get through June, July and August with minimal damage. Second, the post assumes there are chemicals that are as effective as azoxystrobin so "why not rotate to those asap". The fact is that azoxystrobin is the most effective, residential labeled fungicide on the market for brown patch. If you're growing tall fescue, BP is what you should be concerned with. Dollar spot is rarely a signficant issue next to brown patch.
I have been reading up on the different classes
Group 3 vs group 11
Also learned as we all should
To read the labels contents
I was going to buy 2 different brands fungicides to have on hand , once I read Label they where the same. So rotating to avoid resistance would have been useless?
Anyway I applied eagle 20ew at recommended strongest rate 9 days ago and it seems to really have helped.
I will apply again next friday /sat for the 14 day interval . Now to pick up a different fungicide for preventive measures. Thinking Scotts Granular ? That would be mid june
Not sure I understand your question. I think you're referring to scott's diseasex when you say scotts granular? That product contains azoxystrobin which is group 11.I am new to the battle of fungi
I have been reading up on the different classes
Group 3 vs group 11
Also learned as we all should
To read the labels contents
I was going to buy 2 different brands fungicides to have on hand , once I read Label they where the same. So rotating to avoid resistance would have been useless?
Anyway I applied eagle 20ew at recommended strongest rate 9 days ago and it seems to really have helped.
I will apply again next friday /sat for the 14 day interval . Now to pick up a different fungicide for preventive measures. Thinking Scotts Granular ? That would be mid june
If you already see the disease present, I’d go with a liquid application. Granular fungicide only gets used by me early season before the fungus shows up.
Yes diseaseX granular group 11 vs Eagle20ew which is a group 3Not sure I understand your question. I think you're referring to scott's diseasex when you say scotts granular? That product contains azoxystrobin which is group 11.
I applied eagle 20 already and follow up application is on friday. Then I will apply scotts 14 days after going into the hot humid days
I do have a general question about lawn fungus
Does lawn fungus get stronger with each out break? Or can it diminish if you let it run its corse?
How does fungus reproduce?
If you battle fungus constantly will you end up with a massive out break you will not be able to control?
Like much life, bacteria and fungus (and other living organisms) want to survive and will adapt/evolve to some conditions. In the case of fungicides (and antibiotics), an organism will eventually become tolerant or immune to repeated applications of the same chemical. When this happens, the target is said to have developed a resistance or tolerance and is harder to control (kill). Without control, it is very possible for fungus and bacteria to continue to grow and spread unchecked to the point of infestation; thus killing or overly invading the host or area.
This is why resistance management is important - we don’t want to create super fungi or bugs/pests/bacteria we can’t control (kill) Sure we can step up the methods of eradication, but this usually hurts the host or environment as well. Imagine, you got a bacteria infection and nothing could kill the bacteria - that is amputation or death as a result. Yes there are stronger antibiotics, but they also will harm the host (you the human). Pretty harsh - so getting in front of the problem is important.
Fungus usually reproduce by spores released in the air; usually from disturbances like touching/mowing or even wind. When really trying to control fungi, advice is to capture the fungus (ex mushrooms) in a sealed plastic bag and dispose of it separately (don’t disturb or mow it).
This is why resistance management is important - we don’t want to create super fungi or bugs/pests/bacteria we can’t control (kill) Sure we can step up the methods of eradication, but this usually hurts the host or environment as well. Imagine, you got a bacteria infection and nothing could kill the bacteria - that is amputation or death as a result. Yes there are stronger antibiotics, but they also will harm the host (you the human). Pretty harsh - so getting in front of the problem is important.
Fungus usually reproduce by spores released in the air; usually from disturbances like touching/mowing or even wind. When really trying to control fungi, advice is to capture the fungus (ex mushrooms) in a sealed plastic bag and dispose of it separately (don’t disturb or mow it).
What kind of plastic bag. Like a ziplock? Does it matter if it has the zipper seal or the regular kind?advice is to capture the fungus in a sealed plastic bag and dispose of it separately (don’t disturb or mow it).
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