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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So next year i will level. Have a few questions if anyone could help.

I placed some markers in the grass to point out what i'm talking about. The dips in the grass are so severe if i truly level it it will completely cover areas of the grass. Is that something i need to avoid or can i full on dump sand in those areas?

My hill has severe leveling issues to. I'm concerned about the sand washing away, is there anything i can do?





 

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Bermudagrass, 3.75 acres, Arkansas
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Completely covered in places is fine, but it takes longer to recover. With that comes the risk of erosion during a hard rain. It's sort of a balancing act, but you would probably be better off with multiple light topdressings on that slope.
 

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I put down 4 tons on the main portion of my front yard (abt 2600sqft) in July. I had a lot of spots with 2 inches of sand or more. It took about a full month for my yard to completely recover. I have a decent slope in the front but it doesn't look like it is as much as yours. Atleast 3 times I was shoveling sand off the sidewalk and reapplying it. Luckily it worked out but I just had to stay on top of it. Like Ware said multiple light sandings would be best in my opinion. That is what I am planning on doing next year. Plus you don't have to move that much sand in one project.

I plan on aerating and then sanding once the grass takes off. I'll probably try and aerate twice next year and sand as much as I can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thx fellas. I can't wait to get going. Only 8-9 months away :(
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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gatormac2112 said:
What does everyone use to cover the irrigation heads when sanding/leveling? Don't want to lose them under a ton of sand :)
+1 what everyone else said and if you have any OCD you can go around with your hand cannon filled with water and clean all the sand off the heads with it(That's what I do :D )
 

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Ware said:
J_nick said:
45ish psi is pushing up on them I don't think you have to worry about it.
+1
There is a problem. I've had to replace heads because sand gets inside the popups and rotors (between the piston and the outer sleeve) and they will no longer go back down after use. Most of the springs are not strong enough to overcome the friction from the roughened surfaces. I have tried to disassemble and clean them , but no help. What will work though is the tunafish cans upside down over them. If the ground is wet you should be able to push them down into the soil flush with the soil line. I plan to sand this spring and I have been saving them for a couple of months now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What about timing?
My plan is to scalp, verticut and aerate.
It doesnt seem like i should scalp and topdress as soon as first green-up occurs.
So that leaves me with scalping twice right?
1. Spring green-up scalp and fertlize.
2. Once actively growing, scalp verticut aerate and level? Perhaps late april or may?
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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ajmikola said:
What about timing?
My plan is to scalp, verticut and aerate.
It doesnt seem like i should scalp and topdress as soon as first green-up occurs.
So that leaves me with scalping twice right?
1. Spring green-up scalp and fertlize.
2. Once actively growing, scalp verticut aerate and level? Perhaps late april or may?
You can probably scalp and verticut once you start seeing green in the lawn(Feb/Mar) and then once it's fully greened up (Apr/May) you can go ahead and aerate and level. No need to scalp again before you aerate, just make sure when you do scalp that you go as low as you can/want.
 

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Mightyquinn said:
ajmikola said:
What about timing?
My plan is to scalp, verticut and aerate.
It doesnt seem like i should scalp and topdress as soon as first green-up occurs.
So that leaves me with scalping twice right?
1. Spring green-up scalp and fertlize.
2. Once actively growing, scalp verticut aerate and level? Perhaps late april or may?
You can probably scalp and verticut once you start seeing green in the lawn(Feb/Mar) and then once it's fully greened up (Apr/May) you can go ahead and aerate and level. No need to scalp again before you aerate, just make sure when you do scalp that you go as low as you can/want.
Going to hijack ajmikola's post: Like him, I plan on scalping down to 1/2" (hoping my bumpy lawn can take it), and verticutting (or verticutting and then scalping?). If I then set my HOC to 3/4" after a couple months decide to aerate and level, it won't be difficult to level at 3/4"? The lower the grass doesn't make leveling easier? Or should I not attempt to cut it so low before leveling?
 

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Bermudagrass, 3.75 acres, Arkansas
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I would go as low as you can ahead of leveling. The recovery is probably a bit slower, but I favor leveling shortly after my spring scalp. It's all personal preference, but I like to get it out of the way on the front end of the season.
 

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Ware said:
I would go as low as you can ahead of leveling. The recovery is probably a bit slower, but I favor leveling shortly after my spring scalp. It's all personal preference, but I like to get it out of the way on the front end of the season.
My having Zoysia worries me a little, don't want to have a beach through July :lol:
 
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