[Suaverc118]

I ended up using this and it takes care of those spot weeds.


Also, it was mentioned to apply pre-emergent in the spring. In Texas we start getting warmer earlier and wanted to know if early, mid or late February is a good time? I've used a Lesco Pre-E from Site-One and may do this again, unless y'all suggest something else, and I do have a sprayer that I bought from Site-One. Also, I currently have Celsius as my Po-E, and has done a pretty good job on my lawn. With the sedge, I used sedge hammer and it killed it all.

 

[J_nick]

@Suaverc118

For pre emergent timing you want to look at soil temps. If it's getting north of 55° then weeds can start germinating.

 

[Suaverc118]

@Suaverc118

For pre emergent timing you want to look at soil temps. If it's getting north of 55° then weeds can start germinating.

Stupid question... How do you measure the temp? Certain thermometer to put in the ground?

 

[Mightyquinn]

I ended up using this and it takes care of those spot weeds.


Also, it was mentioned to apply pre-emergent in the spring. In Texas we start getting warmer earlier and wanted to know if early, mid or late February is a good time? I've used a Lesco Pre-E from Site-One and may do this again, unless y'all suggest something else, and I do have a sprayer that I bought from Site-One. Also, I currently have Celsius as my Po-E, and has done a pretty good job on my lawn. With the sedge, I used sedge hammer and it killed it all.

When was the last time you applied a PreM and how much did you put down(length of control)?

My theory when it comes to PreM's is if you haven't put one down yet then any day ending in "y" is a perfect time to start as long as the ground is not frozen. :thumbup:

 

[Ware]

Stupid question... How do you measure the temp? Certain thermometer to put in the ground?

Here is a good Turf Tip on the topic. It outlines the 3 methods most commonly used to predict crabgrass germination:

1. Soil Temperature
2. Air Temperature Using Growing Degree Days
3. Plant Phenological Indicators

 

[Movingshrub]

I ended up using this and it takes care of those spot weeds.


Also, it was mentioned to apply pre-emergent in the spring. In Texas we start getting warmer earlier and wanted to know if early, mid or late February is a good time? I've used a Lesco Pre-E from Site-One and may do this again, unless y'all suggest something else, and I do have a sprayer that I bought from Site-One. Also, I currently have Celsius as my Po-E, and has done a pretty good job on my lawn. With the sedge, I used sedge hammer and it killed it all.

With 2,4-D, 2,4-DP, and Mecoprop, that spray should take care of a lot of broadleaf weeds.

I am in north alabama. The suggested pre-me time here is sometime in February. For north GA, I saw as late as March 20th. I would assume anytime in February would be a good pre-em timeline for Texas unless you want to watch the temp. Another rough guideline is to apply the pre-em once you see forsythia bloom.

Concerning spraying vs granular, that's going to come down to personal preference and the size of the yard.

Prodiamine, dithiopyr, and pendamethalin are good starting pre-em options.

Sounds like you're on a good track.

 

[J_nick]

I've used a digital meat thermometer to check my lawn. There are places online that can give you a good idea but you should check your lawn for it's micro climate. I google "Oklahoma soil temps" and it takes me to a mesonet Page with temps from around the state.

I see where MQ is coming from. Say this year you put Prodiamine down at a 6 month rate then in 6 months you put down another 6 month rate. That way you should technically be covered year round but I think it's also important to have the max strength of protection during periods of max weed germination.

 

[Suaverc118]

I ended up using this and it takes care of those spot weeds.


Also, it was mentioned to apply pre-emergent in the spring. In Texas we start getting warmer earlier and wanted to know if early, mid or late February is a good time? I've used a Lesco Pre-E from Site-One and may do this again, unless y'all suggest something else, and I do have a sprayer that I bought from Site-One. Also, I currently have Celsius as my Po-E, and has done a pretty good job on my lawn. With the sedge, I used sedge hammer and it killed it all.

When was the last time you applied a PreM and how much did you put down(length of control)?

My theory when it comes to PreM's is if you haven't put one down yet then any day ending in "y" is a perfect time to start as long as the ground is not frozen. :thumbup:

I don't remember how much I put down, but I believe it was more on the slightly heavy side, and am not sure what you mean by length and control. But I put it down in early October.

 

[Mightyquinn]

I ended up using this and it takes care of those spot weeds.


Also, it was mentioned to apply pre-emergent in the spring. In Texas we start getting warmer earlier and wanted to know if early, mid or late February is a good time? I've used a Lesco Pre-E from Site-One and may do this again, unless y'all suggest something else, and I do have a sprayer that I bought from Site-One. Also, I currently have Celsius as my Po-E, and has done a pretty good job on my lawn. With the sedge, I used sedge hammer and it killed it all.

When was the last time you applied a PreM and how much did you put down(length of control)?

My theory when it comes to PreM's is if you haven't put one down yet then any day ending in "y" is a perfect time to start as long as the ground is not frozen. :thumbup:

I don't remember how much I put down, but I believe it was more on the slightly heavy side, and am not sure what you mean by length and control. But I put it down in early October.

How big is your lawn and how much of that bag do you have left? What I meant by length of control was that the more you put down the longer your weed barrier should remain in the soil.

 

[Ware]

I don't remember how much I put down, but I believe it was more on the slightly heavy side, and am not sure what you mean by length and control. But I put it down in early October.

I think Dimension only offers up to 12 weeks of residual control, so it's probably safe to say that whatever you put down in early October has run its course by now.

Different pre-emergent active ingredients offer different lengths of control (how long they work/are effective), and vary based on your application rate.

Do you plan to continue using the same product this season? Let us know and we'll be glad to cross check your application rates/plan for the specific product you are going to use.

 

[Suaverc118]

If I have any leftover to complete my front and back yard, should I finish it off? And then maybe use something that last longer next time like prodiamine?

 

[Suaverc118]

When was the last time you applied a PreM and how much did you put down(length of control)?

My theory when it comes to PreM's is if you haven't put one down yet then any day ending in "y" is a perfect time to start as long as the ground is not frozen. :thumbup:

I don't remember how much I put down, but I believe it was more on the slightly heavy side, and am not sure what you mean by length and control. But I put it down in early October.

How big is your lawn and how much of that bag do you have left? What I meant by length of control was that the more you put down the longer your weed barrier should remain in the soil.

My yards combined comes out to be 7,500 sq ft. I'll look to see how much is left when I get home

 

[Suaverc118]

I have this much left. Not a lot at all, so I'll take suggestions.

 

[high leverage]

I have this much left. Not a lot at all, so I'll take suggestions.

Weigh what you have left. "I have this much left" doesn't mean anything.

 

[Suaverc118]

My bad, you're right. I'll do that tomorrow.

 

[Suaverc118]

I have 11 lbs left

 

[Suaverc118]

I don't remember how much I put down, but I believe it was more on the slightly heavy side, and am not sure what you mean by length and control. But I put it down in early October.

I think Dimension only offers up to 12 weeks of residual control, so it's probably safe to say that whatever you put down in early October has run its course by now.

Different pre-emergent active ingredients offer different lengths of control (how long they work/are effective), and vary based on your application rate.

Do you plan to continue using the same product this season? Let us know and we'll be glad to cross check your application rates/plan for the specific product you are going to use.

I'm trying to decide if I should switch to something like prodiamine or stick with what I have
I have about 11 lbs left, and I know it's not enough, but wasn't sure if I should buy another bag and what I have left from that use plus my current 11 lbs may be another full application. But to me dimensions did it's job along with sedge hammer.
Your expertise is needed.

 

[Ware]

I split this out into a separate thread.

I'm partial to Prodiamine, but if applied correctly I wouldn't have any issues proceeding with the Dimension. They all have their pros/cons.

 

[Suaverc118]

I split this out into a separate thread.

I'm partial to Prodiamine, but if applied correctly I wouldn't have any issues proceeding with the Dimension. They all have their pros/cons.

Thanks for your honest opinion. But I believe the Prodiamine will also last longer because of it's liquid form vs 1 bag of Dimension, which I have to buy a few times per year right?

 

[Ware]

Thanks for your honest opinion. But I believe the Prodiamine will also last longer because of it's liquid form vs 1 bag of Dimension, which I have to buy a few times per year right?

I think Prodiamine 65WDG (Wettable Dispersible Granules) is one of the most cost effective pre-emergents available.

The 5lb jug ($59.50 delivered) works out to $0.74375/oz. The max annual application rate for your bermuda is 0.83oz per thousand, so your annual pre-e cost would only be about $0.62 per thousand. As I mentioned, they all have pros/cons, but that price is hard to beat. :thumbup: