SAE 30 or 10W-30 is what I always use. I skip synthetics on power equipment seems like a waste. I'd rather change the oil sooner like every 25 hrs. The idea of using synthetics are longer oil change intervals not something I want for equipment that is used in dirty/ dusty conditions.
Oil viscosity selection
I need a sanity check on the appropriate viscosity oil for my power equipment. I'm trying to avoid having five different viscosities of oil if I can help it.
My McLane edger says it can run using SAE 30 at 50F+, synthetic 5W-20 or 5W-30 at -0F-100F+.
My Honda mower says SAE 30 at 50F+ (and I know I'll use it at temps lower than this), 5W-30 or 10W-30 over the full temp range; doesn't specify conventional vs synthetic.
My Troy-Bilt tiller says SAE 30 at 50F+, synthetic 5W-30 -20F-100F+, conventional 10W-30 0F-85F, conventional 5W-30 0F to 50F+ (this looks like a misprint).
Pressure washer says SAE 30 at 50F+, 10W-30 conventional 0F+, 5W-30 conventional 32F and below.
I'm leaning towards a synthetic 5W-30 to cover everything. Am I in the right on this one?
My McLane edger says it can run using SAE 30 at 50F+, synthetic 5W-20 or 5W-30 at -0F-100F+.
My Honda mower says SAE 30 at 50F+ (and I know I'll use it at temps lower than this), 5W-30 or 10W-30 over the full temp range; doesn't specify conventional vs synthetic.
My Troy-Bilt tiller says SAE 30 at 50F+, synthetic 5W-30 -20F-100F+, conventional 10W-30 0F-85F, conventional 5W-30 0F to 50F+ (this looks like a misprint).
Pressure washer says SAE 30 at 50F+, 10W-30 conventional 0F+, 5W-30 conventional 32F and below.
I'm leaning towards a synthetic 5W-30 to cover everything. Am I in the right on this one?
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I agree, and use SAE 30 or 10W-30 as well. Being that you are in Alabama, I would think a thicker 10W-30 would be preferred over a 5W-30 in a warmer climate.high leverage said:SAE 30 or 10W-30 is what I always use. I skip synthetics on power equipment seems like a waste. I'd rather change the oil sooner like every 25 hrs. The idea of using synthetics are longer oil change intervals not something I want for equipment that is used in dirty/ dusty conditions.
I use 10W-30 Mobil 1 in all my equipment. I look at buying synthetic motor oil as insurance for just in case and it's not terribly more expensive for as little as you use.
I use Rotella T6 synthetic (15w-40) in my truck and all of my 4 stroke equipment.
There are four or five things that oil does for an engine and synthetic oil does them all better than regular mineral oil.
For the few dollars extra I use synthetics. Except when an engine is brand new. Then I use the straight 30 weight
for break in, that practically every engine manual calls for. As a practical matter it is unlikely to really make much difference.
Most engines I have had die on me, usually had a carb or ignition problem,(relatively easy to fix) or a catastrophic failure of some kind (one incident) which did not probably come from motor oil failure but rather from metal fatigue in a non lubricated area.
Just pick the range from the engine manual that covers the temp range where you live. In Minnesota 5W-30 would be reasonable. In Florida 10W-30.
On my new Hustler Zero Turn I let the dealer sell me on using Opti synthetic because he and they claim they will double the Kohler and Hustler engine warranty. (yes I am a little skeptical but most big name engines don't die within their warranty periods either)
http://opti2-4.com/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=166
For the few dollars extra I use synthetics. Except when an engine is brand new. Then I use the straight 30 weight
for break in, that practically every engine manual calls for. As a practical matter it is unlikely to really make much difference.
Most engines I have had die on me, usually had a carb or ignition problem,(relatively easy to fix) or a catastrophic failure of some kind (one incident) which did not probably come from motor oil failure but rather from metal fatigue in a non lubricated area.
Just pick the range from the engine manual that covers the temp range where you live. In Minnesota 5W-30 would be reasonable. In Florida 10W-30.
On my new Hustler Zero Turn I let the dealer sell me on using Opti synthetic because he and they claim they will double the Kohler and Hustler engine warranty. (yes I am a little skeptical but most big name engines don't die within their warranty periods either)
http://opti2-4.com/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=166
30wt oil is all at a comparable viscosity once the engine reaches operating temps. Doesn't matter if it's 0w-30, 5w, 10w or straight up 30wt. Unless you will be doing some real cold weather (sub zero) work on the regular, a high quality 10w30 will do you just fine, 5w-30 would be my 2nd choice.
If you really want to get down with the specs, try to find a Total Viscosity Index rating on a mfr data sheet along will other detailed analysis. Some oils will be near the top of the 30wt spectrum, others near the bottom.
If you really want to get down with the specs, try to find a Total Viscosity Index rating on a mfr data sheet along will other detailed analysis. Some oils will be near the top of the 30wt spectrum, others near the bottom.
I agree. I do the same for the insurance not the extended life.Mightyquinn said:I use 10W-30 Mobil 1 in all my equipment. I look at buying synthetic motor oil as insurance for just in case and it's not terribly more expensive for as little as you use.
Example: Before I retired, I drove 60 miles to work, one way. 53 of which was highway driving (65+ mph). I once drove the whole trip with no oil and no damage to the engine. (Oil seal blew out within a block of starting the trip and dumped all the oil out over a two block stretch- I didn't notice the idiot light until I got to the parking lot at work. Replaced the seal and drove the car for two more years with no issues before I sold it) I've used synthetics ever since for everything.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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