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I have pretty bad nutsage invasion in my flower beds. The decomposing mulch layers in my landscape beds have created a foundation for the nutsage to grow in. So the nutsage is growing in the mulch, not the ground.

Any ideas for this that wont nuke the shubs?

Short of removing all the mulch and starting fresh, I dont have any ideas so I just pull it by hand and try to get as much of the runners and nutlet with it.
 
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viva_oldtrafford said:
Dismiss will work, but Round up will also work (and probably better to be fair). Again, keep it stritcly to the target pest.
What % would you use. I'm using 41% gly Star brand and I have to re spray nutsedge coming up in mulch around the yard. I may just stick to roundup pro in the future. It will yellow the first time and then slowly green back up.
 

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firefighter11 said:
viva_oldtrafford said:
Dismiss will work, but Round up will also work (and probably better to be fair). Again, keep it stritcly to the target pest.
What % would you use. I'm using 41% gly Star brand and I have to re spray nutsedge coming up in mulch around the yard. I may just stick to roundup pro in the future. It will yellow the first time and then slowly green back up.
41% is what I use too. I mix 1qt/25 gallons - ymmv based upon your calibration
 
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Ecks from Tex said:
Dismiss. It is rated for ornamentals and many flowers, so less likely to get any damaging overspray on flowers.
Is it worth it over sedgehammer. I guess sedgehammer is a bit slow for my taste... 🤭
 

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firefighter11 said:
Ecks from Tex said:
Dismiss. It is rated for ornamentals and many flowers, so less likely to get any damaging overspray on flowers.
Is it worth it over sedgehammer.
Not necessarily. They have different active ingredients, and personally i prefer sulfentrazone when possible. But Sedgehammer has a very broad label provision saying it will work for established woody ornamentals. That is actually a good illustration of why I prefer dismiss in the beds - it has a very comprehensive label of the plants it is rated safe for and which ones it is not.
 

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I have seen Sedgehammer move downward in the soil and poison various ornamentals. The Sulfentrazone stays closer to the surface and also does something to random small weeds trying to emerge. Many lawn people in Hawaii have found out that ornamentals do not take Sedgehammer very well. That is in dense clay soil that the product has moved down in.
 

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Greendoc said:
I have seen Sedgehammer move downward in the soil and poison various ornamentals. The Sulfentrazone stays closer to the surface and also does something to random small weeds trying to emerge. Many lawn people in Hawaii have found out that ornamentals do not take Sedgehammer very well. That is in dense clay soil that the product has moved down in.
Interesting. That's why I never trust labels that paint such a broad picture for ornamentals like Sedgehammer
 

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No warnings about plants that are intolerant. I also spent enough time in school and the field to know a Sulfonylurea herbicide always moves downward in soil. Why else would that class of chemistry be used as preemergents in corn and grain crops? Broadleaf crops and fruit trees are treated with SU herbicides, however there are warnings about injury to the point of loss in yield. Loss of yield in 10 ft tall fruit trees I can scale down to death of shrubs.
 

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Would it be unreasonable to mix Fluazifop and dismiss together to deal with both grassy weeds and sedges in flower beds? My logic is that it would target almost everything like glyphosate without having (as much of) fear of spray getting on desirable plants.
 
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