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New Trucut winter-ish project

17265 Views 101 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  Bmossin
5
Haven't posted here in some time. Last winter I did a rebuild of a Tru-cut C20. If went from this pile
.

To this



This little Tru-cut served me well last season. A huge improvement over my old rotary. And as much as I have enjoyed using it I was always looking for something more. Yesterday I found her.







This Tru-cut C27 needs a little work. But is in better overall condition than the last one I rebuilt. Last one I ended up putting a Harbor Freight Predator engine on, which at $99 is really an amazing little engine. With the 27 I'm moping to do a rebuild of the original engine. I'll try to post my progress along the way.
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Amazing!!!! I can't wait to see it when you are done. Your first project looks like a brand new mower :thumbup:
How did you tackle the painting of the large pieces? Can spray paint?
g-man said:
How did you tackle the painting of the large pieces? Can spray paint?
Used a regular spray gun. I sandblasted all the parts, applied a epoxy primer and a urethane topcoat.
I love it, can't wait to see how the C27 turns out.
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Doing some tear down work last night. Removed the engine, clutch assembly, chains, height adjustment bar, grass deflector and the reel.







The bearing holder in the last picture can be a pest. It has to be removed to get the reel out of the frame. Has a grease zerk that needs to be removed first before you can attempt to remove the bearing holder itself. Had to heat things with a torch to get it off but was able to remove it without to much difficulty.

All that is left to remove is the rear axle, bed knife and handle bar assembly. Roll pin in the axle is being stubborn but hope to have that apart this weekend.
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Very cool project. Looking forward to the updates!
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Completed the disassembly this weekend. That rear axle ended up being a problem. Was not able to remove one of the roll pins and had to end up drilling it out. Once that done was I began trying to remove the rear axle.



Took a good amount of heating before I was able to get that axle to budge. It did end up freeing up enough to get the non drive side hub off. There was a good amount of surface corrosion that had it stuck in place. This is where my lack of patience got me. Once the non drive side was removed I continued trying to force the axle out through the drive side. Hindsight now tells me I should have started on the other side and drove it back through the other direction. I didn't do that however and I ended up getting the axle stuck again, at this point I ended up dragging out the sawzall and cut through it. But it's all apart now and outside of an axle I think all I'll need to replace are the bearings and maybe the bedknife.



Also this weekend I began work on the engine. Its a Honda GX160, aftermarket parts are abundant and cheap for this engine.



I don't know much about small engines so its hard for me to say the overall condition of this one. I do think the crankcase and piston are in good condition though. Plating on the crankcase sleeve looks to be in good shape, didn't get a picture of it.





The head had what looked like a fair amount of carbon build up on it, but cleaned up decently.



The exhaust valve also had a good amount of build up.



Contemplating whether to try to clean these items up or just replace them. A new head assembly can be had for $35 off ebay. At the moment I'm still thinking I'll just try to get them cleaned up. Ordered a gasket kit and a ring kit, will also probably replace the crank bearings since I have it apart.

All in all a productive weekend. Major lesson learned is be patient and think things through. Had I done so I'd have saved myself having to buy a $50 axle.
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I would re-use as many of the OEM parts as possible. The aftermarket is ok for these engines (not so much for the smaller two-cycle stuff) but I have yet to see an AM part outlast or outperform an OEM part. I would def wire brush that exhaust valve clean and lap both valves back to their seats. It's a nearly dead art in small engine work due to cheap replacement engines but it's a very rewarding "hobby" if you will. Maybe replace the piston rings since you've already removed that assembly and mic the crank journal to check for wear. (Doubtful that this will be a problem) those cylinders are usually cast iron, not plated like a small two-cycle would be and if you can see the original hone marks (cross-hatching) I would leave it alone. If said marks are polished smooth in spots, take a bore gauge and a mic to the cylinder in multiple spots. If everything checks out ok, you can re-hone the cylinder yourself and then reassemble.
MasterMech said:
I would re-use as many of the OEM parts as possible. The aftermarket is ok for these engines (not so much for the smaller two-cycle stuff) but I have yet to see an AM part outlast or outperform an OEM part. I would def wire brush that exhaust valve clean and lap both valves back to their seats. It's a nearly dead art in small engine work due to cheap replacement engines but it's a very rewarding "hobby" if you will. Maybe replace the piston rings since you've already removed that assembly and mic the crank journal to check for wear. (Doubtful that this will be a problem) those cylinders are usually cast iron, not plated like a small two-cycle would be and if you can see the original hone marks (cross-hatching) I would leave it alone. If said marks are polished smooth in spots, take a bore gauge and a mic to the cylinder in multiple spots. If everything checks out ok, you can re-hone the cylinder yourself and then reassemble.
I'm putting new rings on it. The oil ring broke when removing it. I did see the crosshatching you are talking about. Didn't know those were from honing, that's good to know. I may just lightly run a hone on it and call it good.

Thanks for the advice!
I took the reel into my local power equipment shop just to have them look at it before I end up putting everything back together. Didn't want to go through all the trouble if there was anything that would prevent them from sharpening the reel. What I was told is that it is just worn out and they might be able to sharpen it one more time but they couldn't promise me anything. So its looking like its going to have to be replaced at a cost of about $400. I still would have likely tried to purchase the mower knowing it needed replacing, but would have offered less than I gave. Oh well, lesson learned. Still will have way less invested compared to a new unit.

I ended up doing a little engine work last night. Carb has been disassembled and cleaned, ready to put back together once my oring kit shows up. Also cleaned off the build up off the valves and lapped them.



Besides expensive lawn mowers I also have an obsession for expensive RC cars. I have to tell my wife its better than being hooked on cocaine.
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Llano Estacado said:


Besides expensive lawn mowers I also have an obsession for expensive RC cars. I have to tell my wife its better than being hooked on cocaine.
That thing looks awesome!
Since I'm likely going to replace the reel, would it be better to go a 5 blade or 7 blade? My 20" TC has a 7 blade.
Between 5&7 I would choose 7.

If it's an option, I would use a 10 blade reel.
That was the route I was planning on. More blades lends itself better to lower HOC correct?
Look for a blade that gets a frequency of cut (foc) as close to your desired hoc as possible. The foc will depend on the blades and rpm / forward speed of your machine.
I'm not sure if I've ever seen any FOC specs for a Tru-Cut. The way you feather the clutch to operate the drive wheels, I think it would be variable - unlike a greens mower where the ground drive and reel speed are geared.
Llano Estacado said:
...More blades lends itself better to lower HOC correct?
I would say generally yes, particularly on a homeowner reel like a Tru-Cut.

Greens mowers are designed to cut much lower, and have a shorter clip, so an argument can be made that more blades is not always better for those when used on a home lawn.
Like g-man pointed out, the ideal cut is supposed to be when Clip = HOC.

Here is a good explanation (starting on page 11 of that document). :thumbup:
Ware said:
Like g-man pointed out, the ideal cut is supposed to be when Clip = HOC.

Here is a good explanation (starting on page 11 of that document). :thumbup:
That is some nice information. Thanks
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