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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I put down a pallet of Latitude 36 on my front lawn under a pair of trees where 419 was really thin and I actually had more dirt than grass.I'm watering every morning to keep it moist and was wondering what else I need to do? How soon do I fertilize? And will the latitude start taking over that side of the lawn?






 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tellycoleman said:
Did you kill your existing grass first? or lay it on top?
Usually you need to figure out what caused your 419 to do so bad before getting new sod. Which i bet was the trees. which direction does your front lawn face?
I didn't kill it,but I did run the lawnmower at the lowest setting.It faces northeast.The thinning was either the shade of House,tree,both,orthe lack of irrigation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ware said:
Redland1 said:
Did you roll it? It looks like there are some edges sticking up in this photo. The new sod needs good contact with the soil to take root. I would apply a starter fertilizer now if you haven't already.
I didn't roll it.What is used to roll it? The edges do have contact with soil,it might just be that the ground you was a little high and the sod sits higher than the sidewalk.

When I used to work construction in Miami I installed sod three times that I can remember and we just layed the sod and watered with a construction water truck and it rooted.We even installed sod on a golf course on Normandy isle in Miami Beach.Hopefully my sod will root.

I will put down the starter fert today.
 

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Redland1 said:
I didn't kill it,but I did run the lawnmower at the lowest setting.It faces northeast.The thinning was either the shade of House,tree,both,orthe lack of irrigation.
Oh . Umm.. When did you lay the sod? Do you have access to a sod or grass cutter from a rental place like HomeDepot?

Big Big BIg mistake to lay sod over ANY existing grass. I am sorry to say it but if you can you need to rent a sod cutter take up all the old grass and dead material and lay the existing sod down. Decomposing of the old grass would develop an a slime, which would cause problems; also, the fact that you would have air trapped between the sod and the ground allowing the roots to dry out and die. You have to roll your yard with a large roller you fill with water from HomeDepot or a rental place. This will help eliminate air pockets and have good soil contact. You already have suboptimal growing conditions since your tifway wasnt doing well. You already have a strike against you.
My contractor laid sod over a new consruction house with mainly weeds and within 3 weeks all was dead. When you laid sod in miami did you ever go back and see what the grass looked like in 3 weeks? They actually laid sod without rolling it????We are asking you did you roll it because you can see in between lines of sod that the grass doesnt meet with the next laid piece of sod. 90% of all new lawn visitors to this site start by saying "I am in a new construction home and sod was laid BUt............!!!!!"

I would take action. I hope it turns out.
At least go up and aggressively trim the tops of your trees to give the bermuda a fighting chance.
 

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Those trees look like they may be live oaks. With those trees, and a northeast facing house, you're going to have a tough time with any grass being thick throughout the yard. You may want to take an entire day in about a month (when growing season really kicks off) and note exactly how much direct sun each portion of the yard receives. If spots aren't getting at least 6 hours the Bermuda will struggle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Tellycoleman said:
Redland1 said:
I didn't kill it,but I did run the lawnmower at the lowest setting.It faces northeast.The thinning was either the shade of House,tree,both,orthe lack of irrigation.
Oh . Umm.. When did you lay the sod? Do you have access to a sod or grass cutter from a rental place like HomeDepot?

Big Big BIg mistake to lay sod over ANY existing grass. I am sorry to say it but if you can you need to rent a sod cutter take up all the old grass and dead material and lay the existing sod down. Decomposing of the old grass would develop an a slime, which would cause problems; also, the fact that you would have air trapped between the sod and the ground allowing the roots to dry out and die. You have to roll your yard with a large roller you fill with water from HomeDepot or a rental place. This will help eliminate air pockets and have good soil contact. You already have suboptimal growing conditions since your tifway wasnt doing well. You already have a strike against you.
My contractor laid sod over a new consruction house with mainly weeds and within 3 weeks all was dead. When you laid sod in miami did you ever go back and see what the grass looked like in 3 weeks? They actually laid sod without rolling it????We are asking you did you roll it because you can see in between lines of sod that the grass doesnt meet with the next laid piece of sod. 90% of all new lawn visitors to this site start by saying "I am in a new construction home and sod was laid BUt............!!!!!"

I would take action. I hope it turns out.
At least go up and aggressively trim the tops of your trees to give the bermuda a fighting chance.
The sod on the golf course did not get rolled and it did live.As far as my grass the squares are butting up against each other even though the picture doesn't look that way.I will take pictures from above to show were they are touching.
 

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I'm not as concerned about putting it over the top of barely existent bermuda as I am about putting bermuda back into the same area. The existing bermuda likely failed due to shade and I can't think Lat36 will fare much better. Rolling it would be a good idea to help ensure good sod-to-soil contact. An application of starter fertilizer might be beneficial as well, but I would recommend contacting the sod farm to find out if the grass was recently fertilized before adding more.
 

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I was looking back through your Very thin,patchy Bermuda thread, and I think this has the potential to cause you some problems...

Redland1 said:
I put down Pre M and Lesco starter fert today. What fert should I put down the next go round Lesco with iron,Milorganite,or something else?
I missed what kind of pre-e you applied earlier this month, but I know the Prodiamine label says to avoid turfgrass injury, do not apply to newly set sod until the sod has rooted and exposed edges have filled in. Dimension/Dithiopyr labels say basically the same thing.

I love Lat 36, and I know this is probably not what you want to hear, but those trees are definitely going to win the long game.
 

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Ware said:
I was looking back through your Very thin,patchy Bermuda thread, and I think this has the potential to cause you some problems...

Redland1 said:
I put down Pre M and Lesco starter fert today. What fert should I put down the next go round Lesco with iron,Milorganite,or something else?
I missed what kind of pre-e you applied earlier this month, but I know the Prodiamine label says to avoid turfgrass injury, do not apply to newly set sod until the sod has rooted and exposed edges have filled in. Dimension/Dithiopyr labels say basically the same thing.

I love Lat 36, and I know this is probably not what you want to hear, but those trees are definitely going to win the long game.
Is there anything that can neutralize pre emergent? @Ware If post is correct it was put down 20 days ago. WIll bio-char or another type of activated carbon help? But wouldnt that have to be applied under the sod?
:cry:
 

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Lots of variables. Id water it more than once a day for a few days.

As far as laying it on top of scalped grass? It may hold, it may not. Im not familiar with Latitude 36. I can say I have tossed down two pallets of Bermuda on top of scalped Bermuda and some spots I did not even scalp at all. Just tossed it on top of the old grass. It all grew.

My front yard is just like yours. Small and has a live oak in it. The tree is killing the grass from shade and the roots sre sucking all the moisture out of it and roots are surfacing. Huge pain. I think Im going to have to make an executive decision on whether to have a nice front yard and remove the trees or keep the trees and consider the front a loss. I dont think I can have both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ware said:
I was looking back through your Very thin,patchy Bermuda thread, and I think this has the potential to cause you some problems...

Redland1 said:
I put down Pre M and Lesco starter fert today. What fert should I put down the next go round Lesco with iron,Milorganite,or something else?
I missed what kind of pre-e you applied earlier this month, but I know the Prodiamine label says to avoid turfgrass injury, do not apply to newly set sod until the sod has rooted and exposed edges have filled in. Dimension/Dithiopyr labels say basically the same thing.

I love Lat 36, and I know this is probably not what you want to hear, but those trees are definitely going to win the long game.
I applied Lesco 007 which I think had prodiamine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sod is looking good and has some roots because it has some tug when I try to lift it.I'm going to fertilize it tomorrow or Thursday along with the rest of the lawn and was wondering what fertilizer.I have 12lbs of Lesco starter fert which is way more than I need for that new sod but not enough for the whole lawn so I do need to buy some more fertilizer.Home Depot has a Lesco 15-5-10 with 3% iron for $29 and Siteone has a Lesco 20-0-10 with 2% iron for $27.Which is better?
 

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I'm going to say that it would be a prudent idea for you to start a lawn journal, so you can keep track of your applications to the lawn. Open that link, and save a copy for yourself. There's nothing wrong with using the starter fert on the whole lot, and using up what you have left. The starter fert is probably good enough for 1-2 months after application, so I would wait to put down the rest of it on the new sod, however if you wanted to get a bag (and this is just me) I would go with the 20-0-10 with 2% iron. It really depends on what your fertilization rates for your whole yard are going to be, and how many pounds of N on the ground your lawn in total is going to need per month. If you can get 1 bag of the 20-0-10 to cover the whole lot, it's easier to for me to spread 1 bag vs 4 of a lower NPK ratio due to the size of the lot I have. For example, I had a bag of 23-0-3 that I just put over my whole lot, and I'm good for a month.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I fertilized the whole yard with the starter fert on March 2.The lawn is 5083 sq.feet.so if my math is right then with the starter fert I have left I would have a little under half a pound of N per 1000 to do the whole yard with.
 
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