[foroxc]

Let me introduce myself, my name is Carlos I live in White Marsh, Maryland. Me and my wife bought a house 4 years ago and I had tried getting a nice lawn numerous time with fatal result. A few days ago I decide to give it another try but this time I hope will be different.

My case is little comparing with some yard that I saw here in the forum, my lawn space all together are 1,200 square feet, with 660 ft at front and the rest on the back. I would like to replace my front with the KBG but I open to suggestion and recommendation.

My tools:
I had Toro 22" lawn mower, gas trimmer, 1 gal sprayer, hand seed spreader and recently buy a Dethatcher.

My goal:
I really want a nice good looking green lawn, (open to recommendation considering my location I believe my lawn need to be cool season grass).

No sure if is too late to work in replacing my existing grass for a new one.

Please help this new guy to be a lawn addict.

Thank you for taking you time attached some pics of my current condition.

 

[g-man]

There are some weeds that you will need to address, but no need to kill/replace your lawn. Follow this guide Cool season guide

Welcome to TLF.

 

[social port]

I second the recommendation to look over the cool season guide. It should help you develop some footing and a plan.
With less than 2000 sq ft, I think growing and maintaining a nice turf grass is very doable.
I might suggest that you look into Kentucky bluegrass or turf type tall fescue.
Once you pick your grass type you can take a look at NTEP studies to see which cultivars are best for your area.

 

[foroxc]

G-man
Thank you for your help, the post contains a lot of useful information that I will take my time to read it. You say that I could save my grass I agreed with you let see how it turn out.

Social port
Yes I'm considering the Kentucky Blue grass but I picked up a bag of Tall Fescue Mix at home depot yesterday I'm planning using on the back yard but is not necessary to replace the front I might use at front as well.

After my coffee today I will start working on the back yard with low mowing and dethatching after that I will throw a feed seed and watering for a few weeks.

Thank you guys for taking your time will update with some picture later today

 

[foroxc]

After cutting the grass low as possible and dethatching it I throw some tall fescue mix seed and I am planning not cutting the grass for 4 week front now to give enough time to grow the new seeds. I also have a bag of Milorganite but I don't know if use now or wait a few weeks before. Please let me know what is the next step to do after my work today. See the pictures.

 

[Suburban Jungle Life]

At this time in MD, the warm weather is around the corner. Go ahead and seed now but don't be suprised it the new grass doesn't do well over the summer. I would plan to seed again in September for the best results. Personally, I wouldn't seed but would focus on weed control and put out a .5 lb of N from whatever source you have and that will help your current grass green up a bit. I would also recommend a soil test so you can adjust ph or any deficiencies now and make the soil optimal for the fall seeding. Also, if you plan to follow MD laws, we are limited to .5 lb of P per year, so save it for seeding time in September.

 

[Rule11]

That looks like a very nice footprint to work with. One piece of advice I would like to share is this. I say this because I wish I would have do it at the beginning of my projects. Put in the most effort in locating a seed that is cultivated near you. Home depo my not be the best if you are really putting in all the other prep work. Start talking to wholesale or commercial outfits and see what they have to offer and where their seed comes from. Maybe the Box stores stock their shelves per region but I doubt it. Anyway that is what I have done the past 2 seasons and it is paying off. Research, research, research.

Good luck

 

[foroxc]

Thank you guys for taking your time to help me out on this project. Suburban Jungle life thanks for letting me know the MD rule and regulation definitely I will look into this. The last night rain washes away the most of the seed but like you said I will do it again in September I keep working on it until I see what I want to see in my turf.

That looks like a very nice footprint to work with. One piece of advice I would like to share is this. I say this because I wish I would have do it at the beginning of my projects. Put in the most effort in locating a seed that is cultivated near you. Home depo my not be the best if you are really putting in all the other prep work. Start talking to wholesale or commercial outfits and see what they have to offer and where their seed comes from. Maybe the Box stores stock their shelves per region but I doubt it. Anyway that is what I have done the past 2 seasons and it is paying off. Research, research, research.
Good luck

Thanks and that's what I doing know looking for information right now I getting pretty much everything from home depot and amazon, when I get more experience I'm planning get my seed from seedsuperstore.com and I hope everything go well.

Soil test coming soon and planning to do a post-E within 2-4 weeks with sedgehammer + surfactant + 2 4-D what do you think, it's sound ok ?

Can I use milorganite before or after the post-E?

Thanks again.

 

[Miggity]

Soil test coming soon and planning to do a post-E within 2-4 weeks with sedgehammer + surfactant + 2 4-D what do you think, it's sound ok ?

Can I use milorganite before or after the post-E?

Combining post-E's is fine if needed for a blanket application, but much more economical and efficient to apply individually and spot spray. Milorganite is fine to apply at any time the ground is thawed, but not effective until soil biology is alive and thriving to break it down (~70F soil temps or higher). I think of adding Milorganite to a lawn as adding celery to your own diet. It will never hurt you, a lot of it is okay at times, but it is going to take some time to see results.

 

[foroxc]

Soil test coming soon and planning to do a post-E within 2-4 weeks with sedgehammer + surfactant + 2 4-D what do you think, it's sound ok ?

Can I use milorganite before or after the post-E?

Combining post-E's is fine if needed for a blanket application, but much more economical and efficient to apply individually and spot spray. Milorganite is fine to apply at any time the ground is thawed, but not effective until soil biology is alive and thriving to break it down (~70F soil temps or higher). I think of adding Milorganite to a lawn as adding celery to your own diet. It will never hurt you, a lot of it is okay at times, but it is going to take some time to see results.

Thank you.. I will put down the milo to day if is not raining... I'm just a little desperate and want to do everything fast.. Let put the milo and a few weeks later do the spot with some 2 4-D only and overseed in fall and keep studying my lawn. Thanks again really appreciate it.

 

[foroxc]

Hey, I just want to share some progress since the last time, the last time that I cut my lawn was 3 weeks ago, I almost eliminate the weed still a few with some brown spot in the front of the house, the back still horrible I hope to get some recommendations. Here a few pics.













I believe there is some fungus issue in this pic, what I can use for that if I'm right?

 

[g-man]

I think the main thing will be to start mowing weekly or more often. 3 weeks is too long and promotes fungus. The guideline (not a hard rule) is to mow 1/3 of the length. So if you keep the lawn at 3in, then you need to mow when it hits 4in.

 

[foroxc]

and here the horrible side was thinking do a reno here.




Please, someone could tell me what is this thing below and any treatments to get rid of it.







And once again, Thank you so much for your help.

 

[foroxc]

I think the main thing will be to start mowing weekly or more often. 3 weeks is too long and promotes fungus. The guideline (not a hard rule) is to mow 1/3 of the length. So if you keep the lawn at 3in, then you need to mow when it hits 4in.

Yes, that is my plan I was given a few weeks to the seed to germinate a little bit, I will mowing tomorrow at 4''. Thank you for your recommendation.

 

[g-man]

The stuff in the back looks like dog vomit fungus. Yes Google it "dog vomit fungus". For the back also, start mowing shorter. There is too much moisture.

 

[foroxc]

The stuff in the back looks like dog vomit fungus. Yes Google it "dog vomit fungus". For the back also, start mowing shorter. There is too much moisture.

Thank you!

 

[DJT]

G-man
Thank you for your help, the post contains a lot of useful information that I will take my time to read it. You say that I could save my grass I agreed with you let see how it turn out.

Social port
Yes I'm considering the Kentucky Blue grass but I picked up a bag of Tall Fescue Mix at home depot yesterday I'm planning using on the back yard but is not necessary to replace the front I might use at front as well.

After my coffee today I will start working on the back yard with low mowing and dethatching after that I will throw a feed seed and watering for a few weeks.

Thank you guys for taking your time will update with some picture later today

I agree with RULE11......just like real estate is all about location, location, location, I 100% believe the key to a great looking and healthy lawn is seed, seed and seed (and of course A LOT of patience which can take several years).
Over the last 10+years have pretty much tried them all at different houses:
Pennington
Rebel
Seedland
Scotts
and............now have settled on Super Turf II from United Seeds and will never use anything else, maybe never!

Seed is like a great wife, be selective and enjoy the rest of your lives