[Alpine]

My very first post here on TLF - I wanted to say hello and introduce myself. I'm in the Boston area suburbs zone 6a / 6b. Lawn is approximately 7,000 sq. ft. and consists of PRG / KBG mix. I over seeded in the fall with Lesco Park Mix and it came in nicely.

My lawn has been struggling the last few years. Primarily used Scotts products and initially the lawn would look decent in the spring but would quickly go downhill during the summer stress. In addition, there were plenty of weeds to contend with. I discovered TLF last fall and have been doing a lot of reading to get the lawn back in shape. I implemented the high nitrogen routine in the fall using 46-0-0 urea. I also put down 8 bags of pelletized lime - Soil Doctor 40 lbs. This past weekend I applied 0-0-7 with 10% Dimension/Pre-M from Site One.

Last week I sent my very first soil test in over 20 years! Sent the soil test to UMass and received the results - and they don't look good. But I least I know what I'm dealing with. Please see the attachment. This is where I could use some help from the experienced members. I need to add lots and lots of lime. The recommendation from UMass was to use dolomitic lime. Iron (Fe) and aluminum (Al) are through the roof - not sure what's up with that. Maybe all those years of Scotts for aluminum.

I appreciate any input, my plan is as follows:
1. Use Calcitic lime (Solu-Cal) now which will rapidly raise the pH levels
2. Continue lime applications switching to pelletized dolomitic lime every 3 months
3. Apply 0-0-50 SOP - 2 lbs/K monthly until the fall to increase potassium
4. Fertilize with Milorganite monthly at the regular rate
5. Spot treat weeds as needed
6. Repeat 46-0-0 urea in the fall

Thanks in advance for everyone's help!

 

[g-man]

Welcome to TLF.

I think your plan is sound and their recommendations are good. Here is a good reference between dolomitic to calcitic lime differences: http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/should_i_use_dolomitic_or_calcitic_lime It is going to take a while to get your calcium up, thus getting your pH up. Test next year (ideally using the same lab/timeframe) too see how things are improving.

Edit:
I forgot about iron. Iron is good make the grass green. No harm with this value. It might become less available as the pH increases. The milo provides more iron to the soil. Aluminium, I'm not sure about it. It is not something I have researched.

 

[Alpine]

Thanks for the comments g-man. I realize that soil changes occur very slowly and it will take several seasons to get it up to par. I'll just have to work with it.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Welcome to TLF.
What's the texture/structure of your soil? Sandy, crumbly, Hard etc.?

 

[jessehurlburt]

Interesting... my soil test came back with a 4.8 ph and they recommend 1/10 the amount of lime. 25 lbs vs 225 lbs.. :?

 

[Ridgerunner]

Interesting... my soil test came back with a 4.8 ph and they recommend 1/10 the amount of lime. 25 lbs vs 225 lbs.. :?

pH (primarily) is a function of the presence of hydrogen in the soil. As carbonate in the lame reacts with the hydrogen present in the soil water and neutralizes/removes the hydrogen, the soil will "re-balance" pH by replenishing the soil water hydrogen from reserves of hydrogen held in the soil on cation sites. The higher a soil's CEC, the greater the reserves of hydrogen, and the more lime needed to get to the desired pH. OP's CEC, is 14, your soil's CEC is probably 5 or less?

 

[jessehurlburt]

Interesting... my soil test came back with a 4.8 ph and they recommend 1/10 the amount of lime. 25 lbs vs 225 lbs.. :?

pH (primarily) is a function of the presence of hydrogen in the soil. As carbonate in the lame reacts with the hydrogen present in the soil water and neutralizes/removes the hydrogen, the soil will "re-balance" pH by replenishing the soil water hydrogen from reserves of hydrogen held in the soil on cation sites. The higher a soil's CEC, the greater the reserves of hydrogen, and the more lime needed to get to the desired pH. OP's CEC, is 14, your soil's CEC is probably 5 or less?

Thanks, RR. I was wondering if the CEC was the variable. Yes, mine is low, 3.9.

Back to Alpine's test results...

 

[Alpine]

My soil structure is very good - I think. It's not sand and not clay. When moist I can squeeze it together to form a good ball in my hand. But it can easily crumble when poked.

The home was new construction (20 years ago). Knowing what the builder provides I took a credit and brought in my own top quality loam - 120 yards so it has a solid base. I hired a separate landscape contractor to put in the original lawn - he commented highly on the loam quality. The lawn looked great originally.

I'm pretty sure the problem has been years of depletion of the soil nutrients. I mostly applied Scotts fertilizers, GrubEx, etc. But not much else. Lime was a hit or miss thing - mostly miss as is evident by the soil test.

 

[Ridgerunner]

@Alpine Thanks for the reply. I was hoping your answer would help explain why your soil is across the board low/lower in micro-nutrient levels, especially at a low pH, as it is unusual in Mass (sees UMass comment regarding micros on the test form). and the very unusually low Base Ction percentages. It didn't
It appears that you have an appreciation for your soil's current status, the steps you need to take to remediate and the length of time it will take to get to where you want to be. :thumbup:
When did you apply the 45#/M of lime? Keep in mind that suggested maximum aglime application should not exceed 100#/M annually in two 50# apps. (a number of turf specialists more conservatively recommend half that for a year.) Total annual lime maximums should include an adjustment based of any combination of aglime and fast acting lime employed. Fast acting limes should not be applied at the max 50#/M rate that aglime can be applied, Fast acting limes should be applied in smaller amounts per app, but more times over the season. Even so, total annual fast acting lime application "safe" amounts will not approach the 100# annual rate that aglime can be applied.
That is, do not exceed the bag application rates of the fast acting lime product used, unless you can accept the probably consequence.
Don't forget your Mg level.
I would suggest that you not exceed total SOP application amounts in excess of 10-12#/M for the year/season.