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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey everyone,

been lurking around here for a while now and I posted this question maybe on the wrong thread before... but I'll take this opportunity to introduce my lawn.

I have approx 6000 Sqft of st Augustine and threw down 500sq ft of princess 77 may 7th as a project because there was just dirt in that area when I bought the house. hopefully next year I'll transition to bermuda entirely.

keeping the bermuda at half an inch with a mclane reel and trying to get the weeds under control as we speak. I did a double glyphosate app 12 days apart and before seed but what I didn't think of that probably messed me up was I had to raise the soil with 3yds to get level with the pavers.. I didn't treat the new soil and now I have a weed outbreak. no big deal though I applied Celsius this passed Saturday and will need to take care of the sedge soon. the following two pictures are before I raised the soil level



the next one is may 7 with seeds thrown down



this next one is may 24th


I'll throw in a backlap pic after learning from you guys on here



these next two are June 12th





this picture was taken today June 19th



and the rest of the turf (had a party two weekends ago so there is some damage from that)











anyways.. I have a question for you guys. around the time I laid my seed down my st augustine started to to get sick, can you please help me id what it may be?





 

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Many people are having problems with fungus in their St Augustine lawns. Your blade tips look torn as well so you should sharpen your blades also. For the fungus you could use something like eagle 20 or propiconazole follow label directions when applyling. You will need to apply those products more than once to gain control of the problem.
 

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Strohkin said:
hey everyone,

been lurking around here for a while now and I posted this question maybe on the wrong thread before... but I'll take this opportunity to introduce my lawn.

I have approx 6000 Sqft of st Augustine and threw down 500sq ft of princess 77 may 7th as a project because there was just dirt in that area when I bought the house. hopefully next year I'll transition to bermuda entirely.

keeping the bermuda at half an inch with a mclane reel and trying to get the weeds under control as we speak. I did a double glyphosate app 12 days apart and before seed but what I didn't think of that probably messed me up was I had to raise the soil with 3yds to get level with the pavers.. I didn't treat the new soil and now I have a weed outbreak. no big deal though I applied Celsius this passed Saturday and will need to take care of the sedge soon. the following two pictures are before I raised the soil level



the next one is may 7 with seeds thrown down



this next one is may 24th


I'll throw in a backlap pic after learning from you guys on here



these next two are June 12th





this picture was taken today June 19th



and the rest of the turf (had a party two weekends ago so there is some damage from that)











anyways.. I have a question for you guys. around the time I laid my seed down my st augustine started to to get sick, can you please help me id what it may be?





Welcome to TLF.

1. Sharpen your mower blade your tearing the grass blades.

2. Looks like leaf spot fungus on your st Augustine. A place I like to buy most of my herbicides and fungicide from is a place called do my own. They have free shipping.

3. what is your HOC? Looks low for st Augustine. Should be mowing between 3.5-4" tall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thank you guys for the quick responses and insight about the fungus and what to treat it with.

I did sharpen my blade a couple of months ago but maybe I didn't do a good enough job. I will give it another sharpening asap!

and to answer your question @Durso81, my HOC has been 3 inches. I will raise it up
 

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Welcome, I too have had my fun with St. Augustine. I did an app of propiconizole last week, stopped my wife from watering in the evenings, and already looking better. Eventually you will have to swap out fungicides so the grass doesn't build up a resistance to your product of choice. (Alternating Active Ingredients) First year I had my lawn, I was cutting around 2-2.5 in. Scalped about 1/4 of my lot to no return. I am slowing getting runners to take that section back over. As far as sharpening blades, once you start noticing the clippings look shredded and not razor cut, sharpen. I have been doing almost monthly with STA. When I had seed heads last month, it really dulled my blades.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thank you @erad213! I just read that last night about maybe needing to switch up the fungicide. fortunately I wouldn't say I'm quite scalping my yard at 3"..i decided to set it at that height because my backyard is very bumpy and I have a dog that loves to run (also hate the very tall st augustine because where I live the taller it gets the more bugs infest.. which I sprayed Bifenthrin for but haven't seen improvement)

I'm glad you mentioned you needing to sharpen your blade often with your turf. everything I read when I first started was once a season should suffice for homeowners.. but that wasn't specific to st Aug turf, not to mention turf grows year round where I'm at.

the runners in my entire yard grow like wild fire fortunately. feels like half of my yard work is keeping them contained. and fortunately the fungus is only in the backyard for now. ordering some fungicide as soon as I can to hopefully keep it contained
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks @Sam23 :thumbup:

@Durso81 the bifenthrin I ordered from lawn and pest supply is supposed to be the generic talstar p from what I read. please correct me if I'm wrong :oops: I did exactly that, sprayed my lawn, shrubs, barrier around the house. but the tiny little buggers still like to hang out in my st Aug
 

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Looks like gray leaf spot to me

Here is the verbatim recommendation from NC State -
"Cultivars of tall fescue and St. Augustinegrass vary considerably in gray leaf spot susceptibility. Managing leaf wetness is an effective means for minimizing gray leaf spot in all hosts. Irrigate deeply and infrequently, applying sufficient water to wet the entire root zone and repeating only when the entire root zone is no longer moist. Schedule irrigation early in the morning, before sunrise, and never in the late afternoon or evening.

Proper mowing practices are most important for gray leaf spot management in St. Augustinegrass. This grass must be mowed frequently during the summer months to remove excess leaf tissue, keep the canopy open and dry, and remove developing gray leaf spot lesions. Removal of clippings reduces spread of the disease when gray leaf spot symptoms are evident. Apply nitrogen and other nutrients as recommended to maintain vigorous foliar growth during the summer months. Excessive shade, in addition to promoting leaf wetness, slows St. Augustinegrass growth and enhances gray leaf spot problems.

Fungicides are available that will effectively control gray leaf spot. Repeat treatments may be necessary if conditions favoring the disease persist."
 
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