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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright,

So before I found this site, I traditionally just used bagged pre-emergent, fertilizer, etc... I've never measured any of that stuff when I applied it on my yard, but I've usually had a pretty yard. I've been battling poa annua for years in my backyard early every season and so finally I decided to call a lawn company to come out and spray my yard (80 bucks a visit). So far they've only visited one time back in January, but I've literally got next to zero poa annua coming up. Since then, I've discovered this board and got to reading about all the processes/equipment that most have on here and decided that it's still rather stupid of me to pay for 6 treatments at 80 bucks a pop for a season. With that being said, starting from scratch, I was hoping you all could help me generate a list of equipment (minus the mower/edger/etc), chemicals, or whatever else I need to do this the right way.

I've got U3 Bermuda, I believe
According to the yard company, I have about 8250sq ft of grass.

Budget really isn't an issue, since literally everything we own(house and all) is paid for. Still gotta get it approved through the boss, but she probably wouldn't care because of the long term savings. With that being said, she'd probably kill me for spending into the thousands and would be happier if the budget was friendly. Thanks all, and appreciate all the information/knowledge on this board!
 

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My vote would be Chapin 24v 12 gallon sprayer, modified with a multi nozzle boom, or a backpack sprayer.

There's threads on the sprayer, modifying and making a boom, and there are also threads on here about replacing the backpack sprayer wand with one where you can add teejet nozzles.

Prodiamine seems to be one of the most popular pre-ems.
You could also use dithiopyr or even specticle if you wanted to spend some money and spray once a year.

My winter pre-em is prodiamine, simazine, and monument.
My fall pre-em is prodiamine and simazine.

I use Celsius, three-way, generic glyphosate, and certainty for weed control.
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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Do you have a decent spreader? If not look into Earthway, Spyker or Lesco, you tend to get what you pay for with these spreaders and if you take care of them will last you forever.

For fertilizers, you may want to look at SiteOne or a local landscape supply store as it tends to be a little cheaper there then at the big box stores. Scott's fertilizer is decent stuff but is expensive for what it is.

All you really need is Prodiamine, Celsius, Certainty and maybe some glyphosate(Round-up, getting generic is fine). You may also want to get some NIS(Non Ionic Surfactant) to use with the weed killer.

Celsius
Certainty
Earthway Spreaders
Spyker Spreaders
Non Ionic Surfactant
SiteOne/Lesco

I know you will be surprise at how small the bottles of Celsius and Certainty are for the price but a little goes a long way and those bottles will last you a LONG time and are more cost effective then buying the Ortho or Bayer stuff off the shelf at Lowe's or Home Depot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you guys so much. So you would suggest mixing Celsius and certainty?
As for my spreader, it sucks and is one of the reasons I spread my fertilizer unevenly.
Are those links the best place to purchase those items?
In addition, I would probably need help with those measurements and calibrations
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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w0lfe said:
Thank you guys so much. So you would suggest mixing Celsius and certainty?
As for my spreader, it sucks and is one of the reasons I spread my fertilizer unevenly.
Are those links the best place to purchase those items?
In addition, I would probably need help with those measurements and calibrations
You can mix Celsius and Certainty if you need to but you don't really have to. Celsius is great for broadleaf and grassy weeds and Certainty does a good job of killing sedges.

Those links for the spreaders are just to give you some idea of what they offer. As always it's best to look around the internet to find the best deals and of course ask here at TLF :thumbup:
 

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w0lfe said:
So are you guys mixing the prodiamine, Celsius, and Certainty?
Prodiamine has to be applied long before those other two products. Celsius is directed towards grassy and broadleaf weeds. Certainty is directed at sedges. Mixing all three is not the best use of the products unless you were too late in your Prodiamine application and already have emerged grassy weeds in addition to emerged sedges. I cannot think of a way to have zero weeds all year long from one application unless bare dirt is the objective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So everything should be in by the end of the week. Is it about time to put another dose of pre-m down? I've got a bag of lesco pre-m in the shed unopened from last year, but one hand doesn't want to waste it and the other wants to put the prodiamine down. What do you guys think?
 

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Bermudagrass, 3.75 acres, Arkansas
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w0lfe said:
So everything should be in by the end of the week. Is it about time to put another dose of pre-m down? I've got a bag of lesco pre-m in the shed unopened from last year, but one hand doesn't want to waste it and the other wants to put the prodiamine down. What do you guys think?
If you haven't applied any pre-e this spring, I would get some down ASAP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ware said:
w0lfe said:
So everything should be in by the end of the week. Is it about time to put another dose of pre-m down? I've got a bag of lesco pre-m in the shed unopened from last year, but one hand doesn't want to waste it and the other wants to put the prodiamine down. What do you guys think?
If you haven't applied any pre-e this spring, I would get some down ASAP.
I put some down in January, and it really limited my weeds. So should I apply another? Not for sure if you thought I hadn't put any down for the year
 

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Bermudagrass, 3.75 acres, Arkansas
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w0lfe said:
I put some down in January, and it really limited my weeds. So should I apply another? Not for sure if you thought I hadn't put any down for the year
Prodiamine length of control varies with the application rate, so it really depends on the rate that you applied in January. For example, I usually apply it at half the annual max rate in the spring to get ~6 months of control. If you applied it at a rate sufficient for 3 months of control, then yes it would be time to re-apply. Make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ware said:
w0lfe said:
I put some down in January, and it really limited my weeds. So should I apply another? Not for sure if you thought I hadn't put any down for the year
Prodiamine length of control varies with the application rate, so it really depends on the rate that you applied in January. For example, I usually apply it at half the annual max rate in the spring to get ~6 months of control. If you applied it at a rate sufficient for 3 months of control, then yes it would be time to re-apply. Make sense?
Absolutely I would assume it's maybe a three-month rate. Because I had that company come out and spray instead of me doing it this year and then I changed my mind
 

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Bermudagrass, 3.75 acres, Arkansas
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10-4, I think it would be highly unlikely that they applied it at a 6-month rate. If I were in your situation, I would probably go ahead and make an application when you receive it. The Prodiamine 65WDG max annual application rate for bermuda is 0.83 oz per thousand square feet. You will want to map your applications moving forward so that you maintain an active pre-e barrier without exceeding the maximum annual application rate.

w0lfe said:
...literally everything we own(house and all) is paid for.
Oh, and congrats on this! A 2.75% mortgage is all we owe on, and the end is in sight for it. Can't wait. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ware said:
w0lfe said:
Absolutely I would assume it's maybe a three-month rate. Because I had that company come out and spray instead of me doing it this year and then I changed my mind
10-4, I think it would be highly unlikely that they applied it at a 6-month rate. If I were in your situation, I would probably go ahead and make an application when you receive it. The Prodiamine 65WDG max annual application rate for bermuda is 0.83 oz per thousand square feet. You will want to map your applications moving forward so that you maintain an active pre-e barrier without exceeding the maximum annual application rate.
Great, I appreciate it. What if I use that bag of Lesco that I have now? Does that affect the amount of prodiamine that I can put down as well? Also when it does come time for me to put the prodiamine down, I'll probably have to have some of y'all's advice. I have a very oblong shaped yard with flower gardens and all sorts of stuff in the middle and so my application rate will be fairly complicated I think
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ware said:
10-4, I think it would be highly unlikely that they applied it at a 6-month rate. If I were in your situation, I would probably go ahead and make an application when you receive it. The Prodiamine 65WDG max annual application rate for bermuda is 0.83 oz per thousand square feet. You will want to map your applications moving forward so that you maintain an active pre-e barrier without exceeding the maximum annual application rate.

w0lfe said:
...literally everything we own(house and all) is paid for.
Oh, and congrats on this! A 2.75% mortgage is all we owe on, and the end is in sight for it. Can't wait. :thumbup:
Haha and thanks. It's nice to have all that off our shoulders, especially before we had turned 30 and started our family 😁. Now it's on to the important things, like the yard lol
 
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