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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys! New member, and new lawn questions. We will start building a new home later this summer and will be faced with what to do for the lawn. Trying to start figuring out options and getting advice now in case there are steps I need to take sooner rather than later.

This will be built on "raw land" in Jackson, MS, not in a developed community. Size of the lot is about 4 acre of rolling and gently sloped dry ground, a couple of ponds in back not included in that size.

Lot is mostly grassy and dotted with large but not old trees, mostly varieties of oak. I think this was all part of a larger pasture land decades ago, and someone deliberately planted these trees maybe 30 years ago, leaving a clear area for expected home site, but never built. Probably 20-30 such trees we will keep.

Anyway, current grass is mixture of bahiagrass, other "pasture" bunch grasses, and weeds. I've been mowing it periodically the past two years just to keep it under control as we made plans to build. The ground is looks smooth from a distance, but very bump and knobby up close, maybe because of the clumped grasses, maybe the underlying ground too. Not good at all for kids playing etc.

Scratching my head and Googling a lot trying to figure out what my options are for a lot this size. A few thoughts and/or questions I'd love feedback on.

- If I were to consider ditching all current grass and starting over, what grass varieties should I really consider that establish and grow well from seeds? Common in this area are Bermuda (not my favorite, and not sure it would tolerate all the shade), centipede (seeds?), some St Augustine and zoysia. I've wondered about some of the more heat tolerant tall fescues like Titan ultra. If an irrigation system were in place, is this even remotely possible? Remember, middle of MS, but lots of shade in larger areas of the lot.

- been reading on methods to replace a lawn. Roundup and tilling old grass vs scraping/sod cutting. Can't tell from what I've read so far which is better, easier, and/or most cost effective. Glyphosate to kill that much grass and weeds is still cheap. Not sure about the labor part of the two options.

- topsoil. See suggestions for new lawns of like 4" or more of new topsoil spread. Holy cow. I'd need like 500+ cubic yards of soil for every inch added, right?! Grass seed would only be a few $K, that much soil would be a non-starter. Is it possible to avoid that by testing the soil and just tilling in organics, fertilizers, old grass etc.?

- its entirely likely I just do something smaller scale around the house, maybe an acre or so, during initial build and then tackle the rest of the property at a later time. Would probably put in main trunks capped off at periphery of smaller area for future irrigation lines. Any other thoughts or suggestions on that?

- after considering all the options, I may decide bahiagrass is just fine! I grew up with it. To be honest, if it was uniform bahia I might be OK with it but most seems to be something else, and probably the majority is weeds anyway. Neighbors with similar situation just put in irrigation and kept cutting close for several years. Now it looks like... pasture grass cut closer. I guess it filled in a little between the bunches, but not much. Any thoughts on turning this into a more uniform, thicker and smoother "pasture" without nuking and starting over?
 

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1) No matter what you choose to do be very very strict about the construction debris. It will be a pain in your side if you don't. You will need a lot of gravel during building. Tell your builder you don't want any gravel outside of the foundation. NO GRAVEL stress it stress it Don't let them burn anything close to your house.
2) Forget Topsoil. Work with what you have.
3) DO NOT TILL. DO NOT TILL DO NOT TILL. It will result in a bumpier lawn in the long run. Get a Harley rake and spend a week ( with that much lawn ) just going over and over the yard. This will get it relatively smooth
4) Get all Downspouts trenched underground and made to emerge far away from your house and lawn.
5) If your keeping the trees make sure none of them can fall down on your house. Not even close.
6) I would keep with your native grass seeded bermuda will struggle with shade. You will battle disease with a lot of cool season grasses in the humid south.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Harley rake... hmm, have something new to Google now!

No tilling, no topsoil... well that sounds like a promising start. With this Harley rake to help smooth things out, is that with live native grass? Really hoping to be able to move to a real turf grass, but I know its a big area.

Good tip on the construction. Landscape architect is going to define an area that will be landscaped during the build, no construction beyond to preserve native vegetation - unless we decide to nuke the whole lawn up front. I'm thinking I should put up a physical barrier or rope to enforce that..

No gravel beyond foundation, gutter drains tunneled far from house, got it. That should be easy since the house will sit on a high point and slope away all around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK, Harley rake looks cool. Much wider than tillers I've seen, keeps from having clumps of grass that decay later I guess? So this is after roundup I assume. Had not run across this before, glad I asked here. Still lots to learn... that's the goal at least.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Would have to pull the soil boring reports to get specifics but expansile clay was plenty deep, no expected problems with building. Yazoo clay will always be there... just a question of how deep.
 

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What are you mowing the 4 acres with, do you plan on changing?
I would probably decide on about 1/3-1/2 acre around the house and really treat that area really good. I have about 1/4 acre and I wouldn't want the cost of maintaining 16 times that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
61" Husqvarna ztr. Takes maybe 2.5 to 3 hours mowing, would take less if trees were trimmed up and brush was cleared. Right not a lot of time is spent making sure I don't run over stuff I shouldn't, ducking slowly under tree limbs, and sometimes creeping through knee high or worse grass. That will get better.

I don't mind the mowing, especially if it is a smoother lawn turf. So long as the wife doesn't go planting flower beds and shrubs allnover the whole yard!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Anyone here have experience with using Titan rx/ultra or other improved tall fescues this far south? Of course the manufacturer website, testimonials, YouTube videos etc make it sound like it would be fine down to the Honduras. I would be able to provide irrigation, and all parts of the lawn would get shade at least part of the day.

Also, after watching several videos of the Harley rake in action, I'm wondering if it is a job I could tackle myself with a week or two off work. Maybe I should stop thinking that. I'll probably send in some soil samples in the next month or so just to see what I'm working with.

Is it necessary to send multiple samples from different depths at one location, or just a good mix of the top 6" or so?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK, so I downloaded NTEP data for a bunch of grasses including titan rx and ultra that were tested in Starkville MS (about an hour north) and Dallas TX. Best I can tell they were rated... similar to a whole lot of other grasses. I feel there is a whole lot more than I was able to glean from looking at that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
More reading. Man, just doesn't seem like there is an obvious good grass for my situation. Except maybe Bahia. Lol.

St Augustine - sod or plug. Cost prohibitive.

Bermuda - doesn't tolerate shade

Zoysia - hard to grow from seed, high maintanence, reel mower on 4 acre?

Centipede - maybe this is OK choice. Hard to grow from seed? Worst attribute is poor traffic tolerance. Doesn't stand up well to kids playing in small areas. Maybe I have to live with that?

Seashore paspalum - ?? Needs reel mower it sounds. How's it to grow from seed?

Bahia - shoots up tall seed heads. Man, I hated that as a kid. Looked like the yard was never cut.

TTTF - grows well from seed and all the big shade trees would help, but probably lifelong fight against fungus and other diseases, lots of watering in summer, tons of mowing spring and fall. Constant struggle to keep it healthy, or even just alive.

Sigh.
 

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You need to read up on allelopathy of oak trees.
I just started doing a lot of reading on it. And I am just a beginner. This is what I read

Oaks give off a chemical substance called coumarin that discourages herbs and grasses from growing once they meet a certain maturity.

I would only focus on a half acre to 3/4 around your house and clear All trees and have a nice lawn for the kids to play. Keep your big trees for swings and tree houses and just grow native grasses in those areas. Cut the native stuff every 2-3 weeks with a tractor or bush mower.

Or If you gotta have trees then cut down all trees within 10,000sqft of your front OR back door and have a very nice front or back lawn.
When time or money comes your way consider expanding your nice lawn area. I have a "Field of Dreams" that I plan on renovating and have a half acre around the house that's nice.
Seashore paspalum can have a 45 day germination window. How on gods earth could anyone wait 45 days before their seeds sprout and keep the weeds out.
And have you seen the price?
 

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Seashore Paspalum is also the grass to use if your well is brackish, you are pumping water straight from the ocean, and the soil is pure sand. If all of those circumstances are not the ones the grass is going to be growing in, stay away pick something else. Weed control is a trick in Seashore because most herbicides are not labeled and that is because there is not much difference between Seashore, Dallisgrass, Bull Paspalum, Thin Paspalum, and Creeping Sourgrass. Plenty of herbicides labeled for control of those as weeds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just found the price on seashore paspalum seeds. Um, no thanks. I guess you could use saltwater for weed control? Oh well, doesn't matter.

Centipede grows well in this area. Its true that it is hard to get it to grow well right to the trunk of a big oak, especially if limbs arent trimmed well to let a little light through. But it gets close enough to not require a huge mulch or flower bed under every tree. Grows well to at least half the limb length in from the tree edge, more if limbs are trimmed higher. Centipede may be the best choice for a decent turfgrass lawn.

I think the native grass that is there now is largely switchgrass, probably some other native grasses mixed in, a little Bahia in places, lots of weeds. Even when cut every week the stuff just isn't good for any sort of lawn. You can literally twist an ankle just walking on it from the big bunches of grass and relatively bare ground in-between.

If I want a cheapish native lawn that is reasonable, Bahia may be the best choice. Looks like its never cut, but at least it makes a fairly dense uniform turf. I'd still have to kill and smooth the lot, but seed would be cheap and it grows even with neglect.

I'm sure I'll start with a smallish lawn just around the house. My big concern up front is using something that doesn't blend well with what I might plant for the larger area around it down the road... either because looks are way different and it makes the property look silly, or because the smaller area would be invaded and replaced eventually by what's around it (in which case I should just start with that).
 
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