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Just curious what everyone's opinion is on using Milorganite in the heat of the summer.They recommend an application for Cool-Season Grasses on Memorial day/July 4th/Labor day/ and Thanksgiving.I always thought it was recommended not to add nitrogen in the hot part of the summer when grass does not want to grow.Just curious...are you putting it on July 4th or not?
 

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GrassDaddy said:
I still apply it. I'm not doing it weekly but it's slow release so it's all good. KBG loves the N ;-)
See! this is the stuff that makes it sooooo difficult and confusing. You have the science and then the other.

Currently I am in the other. But maybe just partly. While hot, it has not been crazy. Early July is the start, I put 72# on 6k grass June 24 ( I went a week early). My synthetic schedule has me at about 2 week for an app of 25-0-6. Which in reality takes me to the end of August.

So, are we really feeding the summer heat? I feel the heat comes now and into August, so in reality, we are not technically feeding in the heat, just before it.

Then September hits and boom, hit the milorganite or do we? Gosh, I just don't know any more...

We need a sticky dedicated to app schedules specific to the grass and location to see a comparison of sorts. They will be all over the board, but still, it would be a better way to gauge what one is doing compared to others.

Learn what to add or cut out perhaps?
 

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5.6ksqft Bewitched KBG in Fishers, IN
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Look at GrassDaddy location. RI. That's a very different climate than yours in Ohio.

There is no schedule with grass. The lawn cant tell the time or day. You need to see and adjust base on your location/weather that year. The guideline is to avoid pushing grow when the temperature are high (above ~85F). Pushing grow means adding fertilizer. Avoid more than 1lb of N per 1ksqft per rolling month.

You threw Milo in June 24 and it will last around a month in your soil, so it will feed thru July. Why do you feel the need to add more? What do you think you will gain or miss out from applying more fertilizer?

In August, the temperature starts to drop. Once the temps are below 80F, then start feeding at 1lb of N/ksqft/month. You continue doing this until your average first frost date (~25Oct for me) and then stop adding more fertilizer. ~4 weeks later, the grass will stop growing (you dont see more grass clippings) and then you apply one last 1lb/ksqft of a fast acting nitrogen for the year (winterizer). There are other models for winterizing, but this is the one I use.
 

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Grasses have somewhat different fertilizer appetites (KBG takes more than tall fescue, fine fescue needs even less). Climate makes a difference. Someone in Maine could probably fertilize all summer long but those of us in the transition zone shouldn't. Most states put out publications on fertilizing. I looked for Ohio and didn't see anything but Indiana is close by. Here are Purdue's publications (there is one on fertilizing):
https://turf.purdue.edu/homeowner.html
Some states have fertilizer laws about when fertilizer can be applied (and how much) and when it can't.
 

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g-man said:
Look at GrassDaddy location. RI. That's a very different climate than yours in Ohio.

There is no schedule with grass. The lawn cant tell the time or day. You need to see and adjust base on your location/weather that year. The guideline is to avoid pushing grow when the temperature are high (above ~85F). Pushing grow means adding fertilizer. Avoid more than 1lb of N per 1ksqft per rolling month.

You threw Milo in June 24 and it will last around a month in your soil, so it will feed thru July. Why do you feel the need to add more? What do you think you will gain or miss out from applying more fertilizer?

In August, the temperature starts to drop. Once the temps are below 80F, then start feeding at 1lb of N/ksqft/month. You continue doing this until your average first frost date (~25Oct for me) and then stop adding more fertilizer. ~4 weeks later, the grass will stop growing (you dont see more grass clippings) and then you apply one last 1lb/ksqft of a fast acting nitrogen for the year (winterizer). There are other models for winterizing, but this is the one I use.
you have a valid point with this. Therefore, I will apply only to the backyard, where I did not apply anything since May. Or, is it best to let it run its course and wait for September?
 

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Virginiagal said:
Grasses have somewhat different fertilizer appetites (KBG takes more than tall fescue, fine fescue needs even less). Climate makes a difference. Someone in Maine could probably fertilize all summer long but those of us in the transition zone shouldn't. Most states put out publications on fertilizing. I looked for Ohio and didn't see anything but Indiana is close by. Here are Purdue's publications (there is one on fertilizing):
https://turf.purdue.edu/homeowner.html
Some states have fertilizer laws about when fertilizer can be applied (and how much) and when it can't.
I just took a look at this breifly and it is certainly not what I have been doing. It is very not regimented, call it the 4 step plan as I have been raised on. Or the every 6-8 week plan.

Instead, what this tells me is to do my pre-emergent, apply some N in the spring (call this may/june) and then wait till the end of august when you get crazy with the N.

My only question with all this is what is one to expect from their lawn in the summer heat? so far I have managed to stay green, but perhaps this is simply because I have kept it watered? Have I been tricking myself to think this was the result of good fertilizing techniques?
 

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5.6ksqft Bewitched KBG in Fishers, IN
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The north - The largest region of the Seven Kingdoms, the dominion of House Stark extends from the border of the New Gift, which is controlled by the Night's Watch, to the southern edge of the Neck far to the south.

from http://awoiaf.westeros.org
 

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g-man said:
The north - The largest region of the Seven Kingdoms, the dominion of House Stark extends from the border of the New Gift, which is controlled by the Night's Watch, to the southern edge of the Neck far to the south.

from http://awoiaf.westeros.org
Oh yeah, there. Guess I don't fall into that area
 

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Cool season grass is a C3 plant and does not do photosynthesis efficiently in hot weather. Soil temperature for maximum root growth is 55-65 degrees F. Àir temperature for maximum crown growth is 60-77 degrees. At 90 degrees shoot growth stops. At 77 degrees (soil temperature) root growth stops. At 80 degrees (soil temperature)and above, roots die back. Cool season grass can lose 75% of its roots over the summer as a normal thing. Nitrogen in the summer pushes growth toward the shoots at the expense of the roots, which are having a hard time already.
 

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Virginiagal said:
Cool season grass is a C3 plant and does not do photosynthesis efficiently in hot weather. Soil temperature for maximum root growth is 55-65 degrees F. Àir temperature for maximum crown growth is 60-77 degrees. At 90 degrees shoot growth stops. At 77 degrees (soil temperature) root growth stops. At 80 degrees (soil temperature)and above, roots die back. Cool season grass can lose 75% of its roots over the summer as a normal thing. Nitrogen in the summer pushes growth toward the shoots at the expense of the roots, which are having a hard time already.
This makes good sense, when it is 80+ outside, not much is going on and fertilizer is wasted when it is promoting growth that will only stress the plant. Instead, good watering will keep a healthy lawn green in the heat?

One question regarding the roots and water. If the roots are automatically getting shorter, why do we say water long and deep in the summer? Does this promote them to get deeper while getting shorter?
 

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You should be doing long and deep before the summer to "train" the roots. Then in the hot summer they should already be deep. The problem is if you water frequently and shallow, the roots have no need to go deeper so they will be shallow to begin with.

I've never heard of them losing 75% of their roots - do you have any links for that? (I'm not questioning you but rather like to read more about this stuff)
 

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GrassDaddy said:
You should be doing long and deep before the summer to "train" the roots. Then in the hot summer they should already be deep. The problem is if you water frequently and shallow, the roots have no need to go deeper so they will be shallow to begin with.

I've never heard of them losing 75% of their roots - do you have any links for that? (I'm not questioning you but rather like to read more about this stuff)
Ah, so the long and deep starts in the spring as opposed to when it gets hot...I just fired my system up in June as we had a week in the 90's...Guess I was doing it wrong.
 

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Two articles on roots:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://archive.lib.msu.edu/tic/tgtre/article/2000oct1a.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjhxei-kffUAhVMPz4KHbmpCBIQFggdMAA&usg=AFQjCNE0QWZg_GAgqh_K7nBbwiWzBZcDZw

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://archive.lib.msu.edu/tic/tgtre/article/2000nov9.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwj27aOIkvfUAhVGWz4KHbBnBrwQFggdMAA&usg=AFQjCNE4oNRvF7z3L8HsrQec1O8wO037eQ
 

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And one on managing summer heat stress. Drought preconditioning (deep and infrequent watering) help the roots prepare but once the heat is really on, lighter and more frequent watering is better.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://archive.lib.msu.edu/tic/tgtre/article/2000jun1a.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwiz4vX2kvfUAhXMaT4KHfMaAXUQFggvMAM&usg=AFQjCNH-Zykgg0QhTUMT1SQc9StfXvDC2w
 
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