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Mclane Reel Mower Motor Replacement

101K views 152 replies 71 participants last post by  MarkV  
#1 ·
The recoil on the starter finally gave out on the 30+ year old Briggs & Stratton motor on my McLane. Once I plugged my motor model number into B&S website I realized it was considerate an antique motor and I decided it would be less trouble to just replace the whole motor.

EDIT: 1/2" x 19.5" (stock) belt works with adjusting clutch rod.

There is a YouTube Video walking you through it as well.

Parts needed.
Motor: I went with a Harbor Freight Predator Engine just like in the video. The bolt patter matches up great. Mine is a 20" reel mower so I can't attest to other size mowers bolt patterns.

Pulley: I went with a 2.5" diameter 3/4" bore from Ace Hardware. The pic in the link shows the wrong size but it's the correct part number for the 2.5" diameter pulley. The pulley on the B&S was a 2.5" so I stuck with that. Just be sure you make sure you get the proper bore for what ever size shaft your motor has.

Misc: If you use this particular motor you'll need some kind of spacer equaling about 1/2" shown in pic below. That bar hits the bottom of the air cleaner. You also need a longer bolt here as well. The new pulley was hitting part of the assembly and engaged the clutch so I needed to raise the motor. I raised it just over 1/2" with two nuts and a washer. Putting the bolts through the motor and then threading nuts on was much easier then trying to get the bolts through a stack of 8 washers. I used 2.5" bolts for mounting the motor. Again with this particular motor I needed to trim on of the mounting bolts to about 1.9" (still needed a hammer to tap it in a bit too). It would be the drive side back bolt that needs to be trimmed down.

Worst part of the whole thing was getting the shroud that goes around the reel back on. Put gas and oil in the motor and it fired on the second pull. Going from an old 3HP motor to a new 6.5HP motor is a huge difference. It had been 5 days since I last mowed (replacing the mower took me 2 days) and the grass was wet from watering and it didn't even bat an eye. Just plowed right through it. The new motor is quite a bit heavier too. So that's a plus.

I think that's about it. I could easily do this in a couple of hours now that I know exactly what I need and how to do it. It's like a have a brand new mower now. Well worth the sub $200 investment.

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#3 ·
Great overview. I actually have a McLane that needs its Briggs Engine serviced. The carbs on the old Briggs are just miserable to clean because of their complexity. Replacing the engine is almost more reasonable, as you have found. Especially with how easy it is to service these Honda Clone engines.
 
#7 ·
I figured this question fit into this thread. Anybody know if this pulley would work for me?

https://www.grainger.com/product/TB-WOOD-S-V-Belt-Pulley-5RHZ4

I picked up a used Mclane 20" mower for a steal. The Briggs engine still runs, but the guy threw in a newer Honda GC160 that he wanted to get rid of. I was thinking I may swap them at some point. The engine has a 7/8" Shaft. Thanks in advance!
 
#8 ·
RockyMtnLawnNut said:
I figured this question fit into this thread. Anybody know if this pulley would work for me?

https://www.grainger.com/product/TB-WOOD-S-V-Belt-Pulley-5RHZ4

I picked up a used Mclane 20" mower for a steal. The Briggs engine still runs, but the guy threw in a newer Honda GC160 that he wanted to get rid of. I was thinking I may swap them at some point. The engine has a 7/8" Shaft. Thanks in advance!
Sorry never saw this post. I would think that pulley would work.
 
#9 ·
MarkV said:
RockyMtnLawnNut said:
I figured this question fit into this thread. Anybody know if this pulley would work for me?

https://www.grainger.com/product/TB-WOOD-S-V-Belt-Pulley-5RHZ4

I picked up a used Mclane 20" mower for a steal. The Briggs engine still runs, but the guy threw in a newer Honda GC160 that he wanted to get rid of. I was thinking I may swap them at some point. The engine has a 7/8" Shaft. Thanks in advance!
Sorry never saw this post. I would think that pulley would work.
Thanks! Maybe this can be a winter project.
 
#13 ·
SGrabs33 said:
Looking good, how's she running? I know many people here have had belt issues before. We're you able to find the one that works well with the Predator?
Runs great! I was able to use the stock belt after ordering the correct pulley. Backlapped the reel last night and did my first cut today.
 
#17 ·
Thanks. Started to mess with it a few minutes ago and already ran into a problem. Trying to take the B&S off, but of course one of the bolts is stripped. I'll get it off one way or another. Can you give me a list of the bolts, washers or nuts you used?
 
#18 ·
@tuckerp4123 I used the stock engine bolts, to create the spacing needed I deduced to use a mix of flat washers and one .25" plastic washer, I just felt like this would be more snug and have less risk of having a but pop through the metal base. Used another longer plastic washer to create the spacing needed for the arm to clear the air filter. Ordered a new belt(stock size) and the same pulley you already ordered.

I will try and track down the parts numbers I used for the washers. I purchased them all at HD though if that helps.
 
#19 ·
Thanks again. I have the engine in place and adjusted the arm so it fits. Just can't do much more until the pulley gets here and I see how many spacers will be needed. Is it pretty much self explanatory putting the pulley on the shaft? And did you just take the throttle cable off? Can't wait to get this thing going. Been a stress all spring
 
#20 ·
tuckerp4123 said:
Thanks again. I have the engine in place and adjusted the arm so it fits. Just can't do much more until the pulley gets here and I see how many spacers will be needed. Is it pretty much self explanatory putting the pulley on the shaft? And did you just take the throttle cable off? Can't wait to get this thing going. Been a stress all spring
Ya just place the pulley on and get it aligned, that will tell you how much space you need based on tension placed on the belt. I had to big of a gap and had to remove two spacers because it would engage the pulley on its own. I did just remove the throttle cable, I just use the one on the engine and find a good pace that works.

Can't find the exact part number for washers and spacer but attached a pic below. Just find the ones that fit the bolts and you should be good. Three flat washers and the .25" plastic one did the trick for me

 
#23 ·
tuckerp4123 said:
Don't know why, but I had to go up a notch on the side arm to get the bolt back in straight with the spacer. Too much of an angle if I used the lower one. Will that affect anything negatively? Should be my last question
On mine I drilled out the hole a bit to give the bolt a little play and allow it to insert. Once tightened I don't even notice it and it's snug as can be.