[Gibby]

This has been discussed in a handful of threads and I find myself switching between them all to correlate all the information and to try to wrap my head around the information.

I find that some say there is no use on trying to lower PH > 7.5 and others say say it can be done. So this will be a place to discuss the options, pros, and cons.

I will update the first post with steps, notes, and other helpful information for lowering PH as the discussion continues. I plan on listing most helpful to least helpful ways of lowering PH.

Please comment on updates and thoughts on how to help this first post.

Ways to lower PH:

1. Remove 6" of top soil and replace with soil that is at the PH you want.
   All other options are a multiyear endeavor.​
2. Use 50lbs/1k of elemental sulfur to lower PH by 1.0, sandy or loamy soil might only need 25% of that. Do not apply more than 5 lbs of Sulfur at a time unless you are tilling it in. Do not apply more than 20 lbs per year.
3. 95% Sulfuric acid applied at 1 oz with 1 gallon of water per 1000 sq ft, use an all plastic calibrated hose end sprayer.
   
   Danger Will Robinson! Danger! Acid into water, NOT water into Acid... Google it​
4. Apply 1-2 lb of Citric Acid as a spray monthly. Then water it in.
5. Iron sulfate can be used to lower pH but requires six times more product than elemental sulfur. It reacts faster at 3-4 weeks than elemental sulfur but as with all the products can cause plant damage if over used.

References:

https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/agf-507
http://web.extension.illinois.edu/cfiv/homeowners/080818.html
https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/files/Lowering_Soil_pH_with_Sulfur.pdf
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=46339#p46322
​

 

[Gibby]

I am going to try the elemental sulfur and citric acid route, to start lowering my PH from 8 to 6.5.

I am having trouble finding elemental sulfur locally, even 2 site one locations here don't carry it. One of them did carry magnesium epsom though. I am pretty sure I don't want to be adding salt. This looks like the cheapest online price I have found so far https://www.planetnatural.com/product/elemental-sulfur-50-lb/

As far as citric acid... No idea what to choose here, I am guessing maybe a powder and mix it with water then spray it?

 

[raldridge2315]

One of them did carry magnesium epsom though. I am pretty sure I don't want to be adding salt.

Epsom Salt is not salt at all. It is magnesium sulfate. Epsom Salt is a trade name derived from is original discovery and use in Epsom, Scottland.

 

[Gibby]

One of them did carry magnesium epsom though. I am pretty sure I don't want to be adding salt.

Epsom Salt is not salt at all. It is magnesium sulfate. Epsom Salt is a trade name derived from is original discovery and use in Epsom, Scottland.

Thanks! I never thought about researching that part....

 

[Greendoc]

I am going to try the elemental sulfur and citric acid route, to start lowering my PH from 8 to 6.5.

I am having trouble finding elemental sulfur locally, even 2 site one locations here don't carry it. One of them did carry magnesium epsom though. I am pretty sure I don't want to be adding salt. This looks like the cheapest online price I have found so far https://www.planetnatural.com/product/elemental-sulfur-50-lb/

As far as citric acid... No idea what to choose here, I am guessing maybe a powder and mix it with water then spray it?

https://www.amazon.com/Milliard-Cit...3989957&sr=8-3&keywords=citric+acid+bulk&th=1

These prices are not bad. I pay only a few dollars less for a 50 lb bag from my local industrial chemical vendor. Then again, even for the Sulfur, https://www.amazon.com/Sulfur-Granu...8&qid=1523990142&sr=8-12&keywords=soil+sulfur I like this prilled sulfur. Regular soil Sulfur is so dusty. These are little granules that are the shape and size of split peas. Easy to spread. When water or rain hits them, they turn into powder.

 

[Gibby]

I am going to try the elemental sulfur and citric acid route, to start lowering my PH from 8 to 6.5.

I am having trouble finding elemental sulfur locally, even 2 site one locations here don't carry it. One of them did carry magnesium epsom though. I am pretty sure I don't want to be adding salt. This looks like the cheapest online price I have found so far https://www.planetnatural.com/product/elemental-sulfur-50-lb/

As far as citric acid... No idea what to choose here, I am guessing maybe a powder and mix it with water then spray it?

https://www.amazon.com/Milliard-Cit...3989957&sr=8-3&keywords=citric+acid+bulk&th=1

These prices are not bad. I pay only a few dollars less for a 50 lb bag from my local industrial chemical vendor. Then again, even for the Sulfur, https://www.amazon.com/Sulfur-Granu...8&qid=1523990142&sr=8-12&keywords=soil+sulfur I like this prilled sulfur. Regular soil Sulfur is so dusty. These are little granules that are the shape and size of split peas. Easy to spread. When water or rain hits them, they turn into powder.

Thanks!

Am I correct that you mix the citric acid in water then spray it?

 

[Greendoc]

Yes. a pound will go into a gallon. Which then gets watered in immediately.

 

[MckinneyLawn]

I am going to try the sulfuric acid approach. From above the concentration should be 1 oz per gallon of water but what is the dose? Is it 1 gallon per 1000 sq ft?

 

[Turfguy93]

I hate to say it but you're better off learning to manage turf with a high ph soil than trying to lower it. You can have great turf with a high ph

 

[Ridgerunner]

@Gibby Gibby is due for an update. :nod:

 

[Gibby]

So.... Been busy with work/switching jobs.

I got 50lbs of elemental sulfur but haven't put any down yet. I did 1 app of citric acid and forgot to water part of the hell strip.... It died...

 

[HoosierLawnGnome]

Here is some turf with a pH of 8.0:



pH is a limited measurement of soil characteristics, it is not a good goal in and of itself. An ideal soil pH does not equate to ideal soil conditions. AND, without a clearer picture of everything else (goals, broader and more detailed soil analysis) - there is limited information with which to ascertain whether changing soil pH is helpful at all, let alone the best path to get there.

 

[jonthepain]

Here is some turf with a pH of 8.0:



pH is a limited measurement of soil characteristics, it is not a good goal in and of itself. An ideal soil pH does not equate to ideal soil conditions. AND, without a clearer picture of everything else (goals, broader and more detailed soil analysis) - there is limited information with which to ascertain whether changing soil pH is helpful at all, let alone the best path to get there.

Things that make me go "hmmmmmmmmmm"

 

[Turfguy93]

Here is some turf with a pH of 8.0:



pH is a limited measurement of soil characteristics, it is not a good goal in and of itself. An ideal soil pH does not equate to ideal soil conditions. AND, without a clearer picture of everything else (goals, broader and more detailed soil analysis) - there is limited information with which to ascertain whether changing soil pH is helpful at all, let alone the best path to get there.

Beautiful lawn HLG!

 

[Gibby]

pH is a limited measurement of soil characteristics, it is not a good goal in and of itself. An ideal soil pH does not equate to ideal soil conditions. AND, without a clearer picture of everything else (goals, broader and more detailed soil analysis) - there is limited information with which to ascertain whether changing soil pH is helpful at all, let alone the best path to get there.

I did have a Logan labs test done towards the end of last year.

 

[HoosierLawnGnome]

Yeah, not trying to bust anyone's balls The question is WHY do you want to lower pH?

If it's to get a better looking lawn, there are a lot of ways to work with a high pH soil and have it look great. Some soils are so calcitic it's not even worth fighting (like mine).

Definitely the fastest way is to till up the soil and incorporate something like elemental sulfur and organic matter into the top foot or so. Not a big deal for the Indiana farmers up here who till that much anyways, but for a homeowner with an irrigation system that may be a nonstarter.

Other great ways to lower pH:
Apply lots of Organic Matter, especially things like peat moss / pine bark. LOOOOTS.
Use acidifying tools for soil amendments needed like Diammounium Phosphate, Urea, Ammonium Sulfate, Iron Sulfate. Really need to see the whole picture before seeing if any of those tools are helpful or not. Don't want to push P / Fe tooo much.
Apply elemental sulfur to the surface (if it is warm enough, long enough, and won't add cause imbalance based on other soil characteristics)

The above approaches take years!

But, if your goal is to have a lawn with ideal pH, I'd go find a soil you like, test it for ideal pH, then put a foot of it on my lawn. Boom. Perfect pH.

 

[HomerGuy]

@HoosierLawnGnome I recently learned that I have high ph soil, and I'd love to hear some of your thoughts on managing turf in high ph soil.

 

[95mmrenegade]

My yard ph is 7.0
Low on phosphorus
Low on potassium
Low on calcium
Low on magnesium

I have added P,K, cal and mag. Should I try to lower the PH or let it ride.

 

[Greendoc]

No need to actively lower, but I would consider making Ammonium Sulfate the Nitrogen source. Low in everything is actually the ideal situation.

 

[Ridgerunner]

My yard ph is 7.0
Low on phosphorus
Low on potassium
Low on calcium
Low on magnesium

I have added P,K, cal and mag. Should I try to lower the PH or let it ride.

Low in everything? I guess it might depend some on the labs range scaling, but more likely your CEC is really low. If so, you'll want to consider spoon feeding.