This sounds like a solid plan! The only additions I may add would be tenacity at seed down on 8/7 and potentially Azoxystrobin at seed down as well. Azoxy at seed down will help alleviate any present soil fungus pressure and then go ahead with propi once the plants are at the 2-3 leaf stage.

One piece of advice - and I'll be following along to help in any way I can during the process - when it comes to renovation, especially with KBG, don't adjust your dates dramatically after seed down to focus on seed that got thrown down later for bare areas. Keep the focus on the majority, especially when it comes to your 60 DAG prodiamine app. You do not want to be late on that!

 

@OnTheLawn Thank You Sir. I had calculating my Tenacity rates prior to and then didn't even throw it in to my day of seed process. Can't be forgetting that! Edited my post.

I appreciate the additional advice, I even made a note to not forget that prodiamine app as I know the heartache that you went through, although; your Mazama area looks killer now. Thank you for chiming in!

 

Took some soil samples today after irrigating this morning. Will be sending off to Waypoint Analytical in Iowa here soon. Will be applying 1lb N/M this weekend to start promoting good growth.

Ordered a few rainbird 5000+ heads this morning. I will be adding a sprinkler head to my backyard that will need to be turned off manually during seed watering cycle because it will be tied to the zone on the north side.

 

6/6 - Put down .78lbs N/M of Ammonium of Sulfate 21-0-0 this evening. I was aiming for 1lb to promote growth but I only had 13lbs left of product. .78lbs will have to do. Irrigated in the morning.

Temps are pretty consistent in the low 90s for this coming week with no substantial rain in sight.

Have been doing some research on fungicides on seed down and to be included in the arsenal of products thereafter. Something that i don't have that I have been looking into are Azoxystrobin as well as mefenoxam.

 

Azoxystrobin at seed down is a great idea. Helps prevent soil borne diseases and lasts long enough in the soil that when the grass develops roots, it'll take it up and protect the plant further.

Haven't looked into mefenoxam at seed down, but I have researched and used propiconazole at the 2-3 leaf stage. It's labeled for use during establishment and will help aid in it during that time period. It has growth regulating properties and slows the top growth so the plant puts its energy into root development early on.

My reno plan was azoxy at seed down via granular and then propi at 2-3 leaf stage via spray. Although granular versus spray isn't a huge factor for a reno. Just make sure to follow the lower, preventative rates.

 

Thank you for the advice @OnTheLawn it is very much appreciated! Did you use Scott's disease ex at seed down?

@JerseyGreens I have been looking into material to hold seed in place (especially on my sloped side) and saw that you linked a product to M-Binder Tackifier-Soil Stabilizer. Did you follow the recommended yet very broad rate of 60-140lbs per acre?

 

I don't recall what rate I used but I definitely ran out of product before getting full coverage on my slope. Stuff is hard to spread but works great.

I'd get extra and just see how far it gets you.

 

Yup, just went with Disease Ex. For me it was the most cost effective from a (the wife's) budget perspective. If you can swing the concentrated liquid, so it. The cost per application is significantly cheaper.

I also used a tackifier, but it wasn't quite as robust as the M-Binder, but it worked. It was the Pennington Slopemaster available at Lowe's. Definitely helped during the washout I experienced.

 

Yup, just went with Disease Ex. For me it was the most cost effective from a (the wife's) budget perspective. If you can swing the concentrated liquid, so it. The cost per application is significantly cheaper.

I also used a tackifier, but it wasn't quite as robust as the M-Binder, but it worked. It was the Pennington Slopemaster available at Lowe's. Definitely helped during the washout I experienced.

Funny you mention the Pennington slope master as that has been in my plans as It isn't too back breaking and the reviews looked pretty dang solid. I may go ahead and splurge for some liquid azoxystrobin to have it at the ready if needed moving forward. It certainly isn't cheap though. Thanks for chiming in gents.

 

When I did my reno last year I put down Disease Ex at 2lbs/k at seed down. I got a full 30 days of protection and then had to spray propiconazole 14.3 at 1 oz/k.

 

When I did my reno last year I put down Disease Ex at 2lbs/k at seed down. I got a full 30 days of protection and then had to spray propiconazole 14.3 at 1 oz/k.

Thanks for chiming in. I'll have to go through your Reno journal again as I'm sure I have read it at least once!

 

6/11 - I did another irrigation audit today. One area that is looking quite crispy did not fill up my test cup whatsoever. I'm going to test run that zone later and see what the deal is. I have a few areas that are getting minimal amounts so I will need to do some work to get those where I need them.

I ordered a 50lb bag of SOP 0-0-50 today from Seed Barn. I couldn't find any local. At least not less than a ton at a time!

I also ordered some M-binder tackifier soil stabilizer from Nature's Seed - 10lbs. I will likely use this in conjunction with peat moss for a covering. The futerra nets are cool but pricey $$$.

 

6/14/21 - I sent off my soil sample to Waypoint Analytical in Iowa. Last night, I ordered 20lbs of Mazama from CD Ford & Sons. It's getting really hot and dry here, upper 90s for the remainder of the week. I will have to make sure I'm on top of the forecast come seed down date.

At this point, I have all the tools required to spread and level top soil/compost. I need to get going on some irrigation work this week. I have also decided to aerate early on in the process that allows for proper fallowing time prior to seed down. I also plan to take down some dead limbs this week from the tree in the front yard. This will allow a little more sun to hit this area as well.

Here is the tag from the Mazama I ordered:

 

I received my soil test back from Waypoint Analytical. Pretty strange how different my backyard soil can be from my front yard. The only caveat is that I used mysoiltesting for the backyard.

My pH is higher in the front versus the back (7.6 and 7.1 respectively). All in all, I am pretty happy with the front results. I have some elemental sulfur that I will put down here soon at 1lb/M to try and bring my pH down. Any other recommendations?



The past week I have been bringing down the HOC slowly in the reno front area. I also trimmed quite a few branches off of the tree in the front to allow more sunlight to that area. I replaced a head with a rain bird 5000 where I was having some trouble with apparent drying out. I still have some tweaking to do with the current irrigation setup (move one head and add an additional head) - this will happen after the kill.

Big weekend coming up, I will be applying Gly this Saturday and then head on vacation to avoid the inevitable neighbors asking me questions on what in the hell happened. I'm ready but also pretty dang nervous to start the process. I am also reconsidering using a 70/30 topsoil compost mix and instead going with 100% screened topsoil. I still need to gather some samples.

I haven't researched or looked at labeling yet but am I good to tank mix azoxy and tenacity to get it all done in one shot on seed down day?

 

Numbers look good. Elemental sulfur will help, but it's a long journey to get there. Phos level looks great heading into a reno.

For the topsoil, I would recommend going with 100% topsoil. Adding compost into it will cause more settling of the top layer once you have it leveled, so I would go with 100% topsoil. I've also changed my stance on peat moss as a cover once the seed goes down. Depending on what kind of compost you can get, you could look at putting the topsoil down and then after seed down covering in compost. Don't need a ton, under a 1/4" layer, but it's easier to wet than peat moss. Peat can be super finicky. Granted, it worked for me, but based on the last Thirsty Thursday Grass Factor podcast, I'm not as much of a fan of it. Mainly because it's quite acidic (typically around 4.4 ph) and that's quite acidic to have right at the seed. Again, it works, but there are better options.

And you're good to tank mix azoxy and tenacity.

 

Numbers look good. Elemental sulfur will help, but it's a long journey to get there. Phos level looks great heading into a reno.

For the topsoil, I would recommend going with 100% topsoil. Adding compost into it will cause more settling of the top layer once you have it leveled, so I would go with 100% topsoil. I've also changed my stance on peat moss as a cover once the seed goes down. Depending on what kind of compost you can get, you could look at putting the topsoil down and then after seed down covering in compost. Don't need a ton, under a 1/4" layer, but it's easier to wet than peat moss. Peat can be super finicky. Granted, it worked for me, but based on the last Thirsty Thursday Grass Factor podcast, I'm not as much of a fan of it. Mainly because it's quite acidic (typically around 4.4 ph) and that's quite acidic to have right at the seed. Again, it works, but there are better options.

And you're good to tank mix azoxy and tenacity.

Always appreciate your input @OnTheLawn. I think I will be going with 100% topsoil as you mentioned as I'm really looking forward to a level(ish) lawn. I know even that will settle with time so why make things even worse with compost.. I had heard on Ryan Knorr's podcast about using mushroom compost as a topper, I'll look into that as well. I'll have to check out that Thirsty Thursday Grass Factor podcast.

 

Had a busy afternoon today. I replaced a head that was having issues on the north side with a rain bird 5000 and got it dialed in how I want it.

With concern to my front portion facing West, I had a cut in my electrical line for the irrigation. Before we bought this home, some work was done to the foundation and of course they cut the line not once but twice. It was not a fun job but I managed to get it done.

Getting prepped for Saturday with my gly at the ready. Will be mixing with some AMS to promote a good kill.

Here is a little snapshot of me finally finding the second cut in electrical:

 

Welp. Too much rain here in denver yesterday, today and tomorrow. I will be putting off the kill until I return from vacation. Guess that's why everyone is always preaching to allow plenty of time for a Reno!

 

Welp. Too much rain here in denver yesterday, today and tomorrow. I will be putting off the kill until I return from vacation. Guess that's why everyone is always preaching to allow plenty of time for a Reno!

Gly is rsinfast in an hour. My advise, If you get a window do It. You will be doing a few rounds in any case. With the first app now anything surviving will flourish with the rain and you can hit with 2nd round when you come back.

 

@uts My window was so tight today. It rained pretty much all mid morning and afternoon. If I had been out around 7 It may have worked but it was too close to tell. Oh well, I feel good about my schedule. Thanks for chiming in!

 

6/30 - Had my Dad mow the front yard so it didn't get too tall before coming back from Vacation

7/5 - Mowed the front at 2.75"

7/7 - Applied a mixture of:
.25lbs N/M AMS
4.57oz/M Glyphosate
.3oz/M Surfactant

7/7 - Got a good sized piece of tupperware to seed in for plugs in the future. I'll probably do a couple more of these for the heck of it and i'll likely need it. I used straight native soil. They are about 2 sq ft total. On one half I threw down the equivalent of 1ish lbs N/M of Milo. I tried to throw down the equivalent of 2lbs/M of my Mazama but my scale isn't accurate enough so I'm sure it was more around 3lbs/M.

From here i'll start fallowing daily. I've still got a lot to do. I ended up purchasing all new sprinkler heads to replace some of the impacts in my system. I have 6 impacts to swap to gear driven heads. I'll start doing this once I see good kill. I'll also be adding a zone for a drip system to go to the back yard garden. Let the fun begin!

 

No turning back now!! Let's goooooo

 

No turning back now!! Let's goooooo

You said it!

 

You know you're sick when you come home excited to see how much more deader the lawn has become.

 

You know you're sick when you come home excited to see how much more deader the lawn has become.

Haha. Sick and twisted indeed. You've got a head start on me.