Cupping or swelling will reverse with drying. If you think about your floor as a bunch of single boards with the tops being sealed and the edges natural. The water can more easily enter the edges which then swell. Causing the cupped look. To combat this most people/companies will sand and refinish the floor, and it will look good again…. Until the moisture level normalizes throughout the plank. Then you get crowning, which is just inverse cupping. The proper way to handle a hardwood floor is to have specialized mats that are made for drying out hardwood. Or you can rent / buy a good dehumidifier and tent off the area of the floor that is damaged woth the dehumidifier inside the tent. And then you need to be checking moisture levels on the floor. A pinless meter works well for this application, and can be bought at Lowe's for under $50. Check an area that was far away from damaged spot but still on same subfloor to figure out your goal for the damaged area. Once you are down to that number across the damaged area, pull the tent and check out the floor. If it looks good that's great, it still may need to be refinished, but will not crown after it is done.Thick n Dense said:I'm not a pro, but I don't think that cupping will reverse with drying, it's like a permanent defect.Bmossin said:@Deke Do you have any tips on getting wet hardwood dried out on a slab. About 3 weeks ago we had an overflow, and while I thought I got all the water up and fans drying things out on the carpets, did not fair as well on about a 12ft x4ft run of wooden flooring. Now I am dealing with the cupping.Deke said:My 2cents. Coming from a carpet cleaning / restoration background. I would guess I have seen, touched, installed, and removed more flooring than 99.9% of people on the planet.
1. Real wood flooring. Preferably a hardwood. Tough to beat real hardwood. Only downfalls are cost and it's a pain to dry if it gets wet. If it does it usually takes specialized equipment to get it dry, most likely will have cupping for up to 6 months while floor re normalizes it's moisture content. And then will most likely need to be refinished.
Anyway I can speed up drying and cupping to go back down, or am I looking at needing to refinish?
Now that I'm thinking about it, it's kind of a sham that wood isn't completely sealed to prevent this from happening... I can't think of a reason why major mfg's don't do this except that it keeps their business going.