[Cincinnati guy]

First time poster here.

Back in July I killed my lawn, and had it all tilled up. I leveled and sprayed and sprayed weed killers to keep the weeds away. Around September I purchased 30 pounds ofTTTF from the hogan company. I slit seeded it and applied a thin layer of peat moss to help hold the moisture.

Now it's march when should my lawn start waking up as I still have some thin spots? I am starting to see some weeds growing. May it's time for a pre emergent? Anyone recommend my next course of action?

Will my lawn start to fill in better this spring? I've only mowed it 2 times in the fall. Will it slowly get better?

When should I throw some some milorganite?

 

[Ridgerunner]

Fescue is classified as a bunch grass. It does not spread and will not fill in bare spaces between plants. Filling in will require more seed-overseeding. Seeding rates for fescue is about 5 lbs per thousand square feet. A quarter acre lawn would be almost 11,000 square feet, so spreading 30 lbs of seed over that much area would be rather thin. In any event you'll want to overseed every fall until the lawn thickens to your standards. You can apply a preM the spring after a fall seeding, but if you do (unless it is Siduron), you wont be able to overseed until the preM has worn off. You might want to consider using a starter fertilizer and save the Milorganite until June 1.

 

[Cincinnati guy]

I'm not sure why I didn't include that it was a TTTF mix with KBG. I told the hogan company my measurements and he told me that's what I needed. They called it the hogan mix I believe. It had a lot of different seeds blended in.

What preemergent do you recommend?

I will go ahead and get another bag of starter fertilizer and throw down.

 

[jessehurlburt]

lots of good info on pre-m (and lots of other stuff) in this thread, C-guy.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1595

 

[Ridgerunner]

If you seeded very late last fall or you have other reason to believe that a significant amount of seed didn't germinate, you might want to use Siduron early and then one of the other preM later, Scotts sells a starter fertilizer with Siduron. Also familiarize yourself with application rates. Length of protection depends on how heavy you apply prodiamine (see product labels). Some preMs contain nitrogen, you don't want to apply a starter fertilizer N and N from the preM. Read the link above, and check out what is available to you at big box, garden centers, and local "seed and feed" stores. Once you've read that link, feel free to get back with any questions before you proceed.

 

[ericgautier]

I'm not sure why I didn't include that it was a TTTF mix with KBG.

Do you by any chance have a picture of the seed bag tag? If it did in fact contain KBG, then it'll fill in some. Google "philes fertilizer lecture". :bandit:

 

[Cincinnati guy]

So I do have bluegrass! So it looks like it's time to choose a pre emergent and get some more starter fertilizer. Can I use the pre-m right after using fertilizer or should I wait?

 

[Cincinnati guy]

The below photos are of my yard! It's not looking good, it did look good right after I planted the seeds in August! Now it looks like weeds are starting to overtake again!

 

[g-man]

lots of good info on pre-m (and lots of other stuff) in this thread, C-guy.

Cool Season Guide

^ For PreM - read this ^

I think your best approach is to go to Menards, Home Depot, Lowes, Costco, etc And get a bag of Crabgrass Preventer product that matches your lawn size and apply it now. The link above has details on how to buy it. That will get you PreM and fertilizer that you need.

The PreM will not address the weeds you see. It will prevent new ones. Also in the thread above you will find info around the weeds. You will need Weed B Gon and Weed B Gon CCO. After you apply the Crabgrass Preventer with fertilizer, your lawn and weeds will start to grow once the weather warms up (in around 2-3weeks). This is when you should apply the Weed B Gon. Your lawn is still young, so go easy on the Weed B Gon. Two weeks later (in 4-5 weeks), then apply the WBG CCO to whatever survives.

 

[Cincinnati guy]

I've heard conflicting information with fertilizing new yards. I want to make sure I do not mess it up! I've seen where it was suggested to go heavy on the fertilizer on a newer yard and some say to go light but more often.

Here is what I plan on picking up tomorrow and throwing down.

 

[ABC123]

A soil test Is a great tool used for making a fertilizer plan. Much less of a guessing game and guaranteed results.

 

[zeus201]

I've heard conflicting information with fertilizing new yards. I want to make sure I do not mess it up! I've seen where it was suggested to go heavy on the fertilizer on a newer yard and some say to go light but more often.

Here is what I plan on picking up tomorrow and throwing down.

A soil test Is a great tool used for making a fertilizer plan. Much less of a guessing game and guaranteed results.

I agree with ABC123 as well.

I'm not a big fan of fertilizing right away, like the turf to come up on its' own, and then start my fertilizer plan. Anyrate, do they have the Lesco 0-0-7 Dimension?

 

[social port]

I've seen where it was suggested to go heavy on the fertilizer on a newer yard and some say to go light but more often.

Some of that variation in recommendations may be due to differences in soil. If your soil doesn't hold nutrients very well, for example, it is best to do lighter feedings more often so that you don't waste nutrients.

 

[Cincinnati guy]

Should I stray away from the at home soil tests?

 

[social port]

Should I stray away from the at home soil tests?

I would avoid home kits.
A test from a university extension is a reasonable option. They are relatively inexpensive and provide recommendations at no additional cost.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

Even labs can be relatively cheap if you can find one near by.

I found one i could drive my samples too, i think i paid $13 per sample for the full work up + recommendations?

 

[ericgautier]

A test from a university extension is a reasonable option. They are relatively inexpensive and provide recommendations at no additional cost.

I have been using Logan Labs the past few years but I think this year, I will see if I can drop off my soil sample to Rutgers (since they are in my back yard).

 

[social port]

A test from a university extension is a reasonable option. They are relatively inexpensive and provide recommendations at no additional cost.

I have been using Logan Labs the past few years but I think this year, I will see if I can drop off my soil sample to Rutgers (since they are in my back yard).

I'm thinking of trying a university-based lab as well. I'm curious to know what you think of the services provided by Rutgers. When I lived in that area, I remember driving by several of their agricultural research programs.

 

[Green]

If the grass is green and has started growing, you can put down fertilizer. If it's not growing yet and you need to put down the pre-emergent/fertilizer to prevent crabgrass, you can split the application into 2 or 3 smaller applications, such as putting down half of it now and half of it in about a month. For example, with the Lesco 19-0-7, you could put down 2 pounds per thousand square feet now (or whenever the conditions in your area warrant), and then repeat it again in 4-6 weeks. That allows you to spread the Nitrogen out so it's used by the grass. Use Forsythia bloom as a good estimate for timing the first application. Every application does have to be watered in with 1/2 inch of water or more.

An alternative is a 0-0-7 Pre-emergent and a separate fertilizer, such as Milorganite.

 

[Cincinnati guy]

According to this from Michigan State University I am at my prime time for pre emergent. I will go buy a thermometer to actually check the ground temp.