[Kcd2018]

Hello all,
I'm new here. I've got a small lawn in pretty rough shape and am looking for some advice on a plan of action to get this thing looking good. I'm in North Texas, about 30 minutes North of Dallas. I have/had sodded bermuda, though for all I know this sod is as old as the house (15 yrs). However most of the grass has been taken over by weeds, clover in particular. I'm looking to just rehabilitate my front and side yards which is only about 1,500 sf.

Should I be seeding, resodding, or what?

The idea of growing from seed is appealing to me so long as the chances of success aren't too slim.

The home faces north, most of the front yard gets baked pretty good in the Texas sun, but the side yards are in between two houses limiting the sun exposure somewhat. The previous home owner planted what I'm guessing is some fescue in this area, however the neighbors half of this side yard has bermuda which seems to grow. A little bug in my ear is telling me I need to look into zoysia...

I sent off a soil sample to my local extension office and got the attached report back. My soil is all clay. What should be my plan of attack in the fert department?

Any and all help much appreciated.

 

[Alan]

Got pics?

If you only have 1,500sq. ft., I'd probably opt to sod it rather than seed it for a number of reasons:

-Typically you'll end up with a better grade of grass with sod
-You don't have the babysit the hell out of sod like you do seed
-Once and done, except water it once in a while(unlike seeding-see above)
-Success odds are in your favor with sod, maybe not so much with seed

 

[Movingshrub]

I'd speculate there is also significantly less weed pressure with sod over seed.

 

[Alan]

I'd speculate there is also significantly less weed pressure with sod over seed.

That too!

And welcome to TLF.

 

[Kcd2018]

Thanks for the input!

If I'm re-sodding how should I approach fertilizing given the soil report posted above?

 

[SCGrassMan]

Thanks for the input!

If I'm re-sodding how should I approach fertilizing given the soil report posted above?

Couple of inches (2-4) of good dirt with starter fertilizer mixed in, sod watered and rolled, with starter fertilizer on top watered in. And water it. A lot.

 

[Kcd2018]

So I don't even need to worry about the soil report?

When you say good dirt what do I need to look for?
These guy's are close by: http://livingearth.net/soil/
"Clay killer" because all we have is clay? Or "top soil w/ compost"? Or something else?

I just ran the calc, 2" of soil is 9+ cuyd. I would need to dig out and haul off that much of my clay soil first?

 

[Txag12]

I wouldn't worry about adding top soil. If you go the sod route ask if they can give you a thicker "slab" on the sod besides the typical 1".

 

[Kcd2018]

Here are some pics of the current sad state of affairs:

My seeding experiment because why not?!

 

[Kcd2018]

I wouldn't worry about adding top soil. If you go the sod route ask if they can give you a thicker "slab" on the sod besides the typical 1".

No one seems too concerned with the soil report. Should I not worry about it if I'm soding?

 

[SCGrassMan]

Clay drainage is gonna suck

 

[Txag12]

I wouldn't worry about adding top soil. If you go the sod route ask if they can give you a thicker "slab" on the sod besides the typical 1".

No one seems too concerned with the soil report. Should I not worry about it if I'm soding?

I would not worry about if you plan to sod. If you do sod, apply a starter fertilizer and you'll be set. In one of your photos, the bare area next to driveway, do you get in and out of your vehicle here? If so, it'll be a constant trouble spot.

 

[Kcd2018]

It is near where I hop in and out of the truck, but a little south. It's only bare now because I threw down a couple inches of dirt there to fill in a bad low spot. I suppose I don't walk on it enough to kill the few Bermuda seeds sprouting up.

 

[Kcd2018]

Given the pictures of what I'm working with would you guys think it's possible to revitalize what I've got without a total do-over?

 

[dfw_pilot]

Ok, hold the phone.

I'm not a fan of seed (you don't over-seed sodded Bermuda) or a fan of $od.

It's Bermuda, so it's there, and will come back once the temps are warmer and your cultural practices are sound.

Start with the Bermuda Bible. Memorize it. Follow it: Don't water too little or too much, mow low and often, buy a quality herbicide, and don't give up.

The "land between the houses" may not work due to shade. That's okay. Make sure the Bermuda won't grow there, and then put in something else, like a more shade tolerant grass, mulch, gravel, pavers, flagstone, etc.

For the yard, do what encourages Bermuda and harms the weeds: mow low and often, start a pre-m regimen, and aim for a 1" of water per week in the heat of the summer.

Don't worry about the clay. I have 50%+ clay and my Bermuda is fine. The only thing to remember is that it causes runoff. So when you water, don't water a zone for longer than 5 minutes. Then let it soak for 15. That gives the water a chance to be absorbed before running off. Fancy new irrigation controllers will do this automatically, or you can do it manually, just be cognizant of it. Run an audit to know how much water you are putting out with each watering.

Use a slow release fertilizer to prevent flushes of growth. If you don't have something like Celsius, just buy Weed-B-gon for now and hit the weeds before it gets too hot (85-90). You got this. Hang in there. Wait until it's warmer to see the Bermuda shine, and follow the Bible to a T. Doing that will help turn things around and you'll be happy by this summer.

 

[Ridgerunner]

No one seems too concerned with the soil report. Should I not worry about it if I'm soding?

I believe Texas A&M uses the Mehlich III extraction method for soil testing. M3 is not particularly accurate when soil pH approaches of exceeds pH 8. So, it's a bit of a crap shoot to make adjustments based on it. In the future, you should consider having your soil tested using ammonium acetate and Olsen extraction.
That being said, based on the very low results for phosphorous and turfs general use/need of the other major nutrients, you can and should follow the recommendations given for improved nutrient availability.
If you are going to remove soil prior to sodding, it would be a waste of time and fertilizer to fertilize the existing soil. I'm not a warm season person, so I have no opinion whether you can get what you now have to work. If you decide to work with what you have, then follow the recommendations, break the recommended P applications up into 3 or 4 separate apps over the season. A triple NPK (10-10-10 etc) for 3 of your annual feedings would be good method to meet the recs.

 

[Kcd2018]

I get runoff through the french drains at just TWO minutes of running the sprinklers. I tested this last week. Maybe I should get a pro to look at my sprinkler system to make sure there aren't any busted pipes?

 

[Kcd2018]

No one seems too concerned with the soil report. Should I not worry about it if I'm soding?

I believe Texas A&M uses the Mehlich III extraction method for soil testing. M3 is not particularly accurate when soil pH approaches of exceeds pH 8. So, it's a bit of a crap shoot to make adjustments based on it. In the future, you should consider having your soil tested using ammonium acetate and Olsen extraction.
That being said, based on the very low results for phosphorous and turfs general use/need of the other major nutrients, you can and should follow the recommendations given for improved nutrient availability.
If you are going to remove soil prior to sodding, it would be a waste of time and fertilizer to fertilize the existing soil. I'm not a warm season person, so I have no opinion whether you can get what you now have to work. If you decide to work with what you have, then follow the recommendations, break the recommended P applications up into 3 or 4 separate apps over the season. A triple NPK (10-10-10 etc) for 3 of your annual feedings would be good method to meet the recs.

Per dfw_pilot I think I'll try to revitalize what I have and see what happens. That said I suppose I'll try to do what the soil report says to try and get the phosphorus back up. Do I just put down the recommended fertilizer quantities from the report in one go right now or spread out over a few applications or what?

Also, should I look to be aerating and/or dethatching?

I've got some tree roots growing a little high above the ground, I have hit them with the mower blade. I would like to to put some soil around them so my mower wont chop 'em up. Just to level/smooth the surface out, not to bury the roots and suffocate the tree. Is this a good idea? I figure just use some compost or top soil type material and wait till I get the existing turf to start greening up. Thoughts?

 

[Ridgerunner]

1. Read the Bermuda Bible-New Testament (see link DFW gave).
2. Read the Bermuda Bible-New Testament (see link DFW gave).
3. Yes, break the P recommendation up and spread it over 3- 4 applications.

Also, should I look to be aerating and/or dethatching?

Aerating and fertilizing immediately after can help slightly in incorporating some P deeper into the soil, but not by a lot.
Dethatching would be best left to a warm season person's advice. (read the Bible )