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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning everyone, new guy here! I have finally got some extra money after working on the house and barn and wanted to start working on the lawn now. I have about 36,000sqft of lawn I want to make nice and pretty with the other parts are pasture for the animals. This is the first year that I have done anything. I sprayed Gordons Trimec followed by a 4oz application of tenacity about 6 weeks later. My friend had some extra so I figured try it to see what it would do after the trimec. I also put down some 24-0-4 fertilizer and noticed a nice even greening of the lawn. My front yard is alot nicer than the back. The back has more clover and some open spots I need to fix this fall, going to kill and reseed. I've ordered the sample kits to get the soil tested but wanted to see if I could get some help creating a lawn plan for me. Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

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Welcome to TLF :thumbup:

FYI, Tenacity is usually not very kind to fine fescue. Your tall fescue should be OK.
I'm not very familiar with Trimec, but if it doesn't take care of the clover, you can pick up some weed b gone clover, chickweed, and oxalis (CCO) to finish the job. If you add a little baby shampoo to the mix, the herbicide can better cover the leaf surface.

I think you are on the right track with getting a soil sample now and with planning for a fall reseed.

When you have some time, this https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1595 is a great resource for outlining a program. And feel free to ask if you have a specific question or want recommendations. Many of us keep a personal lawn thread where we track progress and bounce ideas around with other forum members.

36k is a lot of lawn! And can be a lot of fun. Cut your grass high (3 inches or above-I mow at 4-4.5 inches), mow often, keep your blades sharp, and don't water after 10am.
 

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5.6ksqft Bewitched KBG in Fishers, IN
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Welcome.

Your plan will depend on budget and effort. At the very least, apply a prem in the spring to control crabgrass. For your lawn size, you will need to do spray applications of prodiamine to keep your cost down. Do you have a way to irrigate (not city water)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That's what I wanted to do was start a journal of the lawn, what works, what doesn't etc. Figure out from others what they've tried and figure a long term plan out for my lawn. I looked that that cool season thread already and was going to try to hit tier 2 lawn. That's my ultimate goal. The tenacity affected some FF but not much to be honest, I had read that to and that it would grow out of the whitening.

Would spraying the trimec type mix with triclopyr work fine for the clover & broad spectrum weeds?

I currently cut at 3.75 but was thinking of changing it to 4.

I don't really have a set budget yet but was don't want to break the bank trying to do this.

Yes I am on a 6 inch well so water isn't an issue, the biggest issue is moving the sprinkler since I am on shift work for the firehouse and work quite often.

Below is what I have started toying with planning wise with reading other threads and research. If im going in the wrong direction let me know or if it's overboard let me know. Brand new to this. Thanks!

SPRING MARCH (SOIL SAMPLE)
CRABGRASS
-Aerate prior to PreM
-Prodiamine 65 5# ($64.50 DMO) SPLIT APPLICATIONS MONTH APART
Apply March & May at .75lbs/acre
-Milorganite 36# ($11.57 Walmart)
Covers 2,500 per bag, need 14 bags
BROADLEAF & WEED
-3-Way herbicide (2,4D-Dicamba-?)
-3-Way herbicide+Triclopyr (2 weeks after initial)
-Tenacity 2oz applications 2 weeks every week for POA ANNUA, finish with glyphosphate

SUMMER

FALL LABOR DAY
-Milorganite 36# ($11.57 Walmart)
Covers 2,500 per bag, need 14 bags
-3-Way herbicide (2,4D-Dicamba-?)
Winter broadleaf suppression
-Prodiamine 65 5# ($64.50 DMO) SPLIT APPLICATIONS MONTH APART
Apply March & May at .75lbs/acre
 

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If your lawn is mostly tall fescue, you should plan for at least the possibility of needing to overseed in the fall.
If you do, you'll need to hold off the prodiamine until your reseeded grass has established. The same is true of your 3 way herbicide. I believe that 30 days must elapse between post M application and any seeding attempt (but as always, it is good to confirm with the label).
Also, there is nothing wrong with milorganite at all, but your soil test may reveal that you need potassium. If so, supplementing with SOP would be an option, or you could use a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 15-15-15) if you also need phosphorus.

I can't advise re mixing trimec with triclopyr.
 

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I think he's going to find milorganite too expensive for that size of lawn but I guess that depends on budget.

Yes you can mix triclopyr with your Gordon's 3-way, but it's harsher and you risk scorching your lawn a bit. I do that in the Spring sometimes when the temps aren't so hot. You could just hit the clover with the triclopyr by itself and a surfactant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
nocsious said:
I think he's going to find milorganite too expensive for that size of lawn but I guess that depends on budget.

Yes you can mix triclopyr with your Gordon's 3-way, but it's harsher and you risk scorching your lawn a bit. I do that in the Spring sometimes when the temps aren't so hot. You could just hit the clover with the triclopyr by itself and a surfactant.
Would you hit the clover now or wait till the fall weeks before putting seed down just so there's no bare spots. The milorganite was only like $50 more than using what I did this year.
 

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Richie0320 said:
nocsious said:
I think he's going to find milorganite too expensive for that size of lawn but I guess that depends on budget.

Yes you can mix triclopyr with your Gordon's 3-way, but it's harsher and you risk scorching your lawn a bit. I do that in the Spring sometimes when the temps aren't so hot. You could just hit the clover with the triclopyr by itself and a surfactant.
Would you hit the clover now or wait till the fall weeks before putting seed down just so there's no bare spots. The milorganite was only like $50 more than using what I did this year.
That's your call on the bare spots. I would hit it now and follow up with another application 10-14 days later. Use a surfactant. You can get away without one on some weeds, but in my opinion is makes a world of difference on clover and wood sorrel.
 
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