Indeed, as per "still learnin", that first pic is of an ilex variety; could be weather (frost damage); and, since it appears to be quite limited and hollies are so extraordinarily resilient I'd adopt a "closely monitor" perspective on that one. If it spreads I'd try a broad spectrum fungicide or bactericide.
Your kalmia variety(ies) on the other hand need some help, now. Ultimately, really, I'd move that plant further out from the corner and while doing so raise it and amend its bed with some sharp gravel and lots of organic material. Laurels are fussy, fussy, fussy and, while development of strains that can withstand cultures gardeners couldn't dream of 30, 40 years ago, well, they do like acidic soil and all that masonry and foundation are the opposite for the surrounding soil (and root systems).
All that blathering aside, you do gots some critters munching on those laurels! If your not seeing them they may be nocturnal (slugs) as those "scalloped" out edges would indicate or difficult to see (some leaf miners) as the brown blotches inside the yellowed leaves might indicate.
On top of all that, it appears the plant is also suffering from some fungal disease and quite likely root borne, although it appears there may be some powdery mold / mildew on some of the younger horizontal stems.
A second step (first being bringing the plant out and "up" some where it will get more ventilation, drainage, etc.) would be a good systemic insecticide. This year, for the first time for us
, I gave all our shrubs and trees a good drink of Ferti-lome Tree and Shrub Systemic Insect Drench
( https://www.domyown.com/fertilome-tree-and-shrub-systemic-insect-drench-questions-pq-1523.html ) and thus far the results are very, very encouraging. I did not exclude any shrubs as e perimental "controls" (hindsight always 20/20); however; the real test will be in another month when the Japanese Beetles descend on close by neighbors... (The Talstar you mention is bifenthrin and is certainly broad spectrum but, you may also want to try some neem oil, in case scale is part of the problem not readily visible.)
Finally, with respect to the apparent and pathological fungal issues you got going on, any fungicide you apply will be better than none (especially as it does not appear there is any body of natural water too close by (?). I am battling to keep alive some gardenias (the condition of which really make your pictures look quite "rosy") and I have had to resort to using some Chlorothalonil I picked up as part of my turf fungus program (against the cautionary notes by a member here, it really is some nasty sh_t, once it's gone i'm getting off that bus!). I'd wager that just about any off the shelf fungicides you get from your local chain store or garden center will assist but, the turnaround will take time and multiple applications so, if you have other shrubs you may just want to bite the bullet, do some more research and order enough fungicide from online to take care of the rest of any plants that even appear to be heading in the same direction. Whatever you use I'd apply it to the point off runoff off the leaves and stems and even consider a systemic such as Phyton27 which is absorbed by the plant largely making it "armor proof." LOL, if "$ is no object" you can order some Phyton35 which is what I had to procure to protect a 3' tall 4' wide Japanese maple in a 130-gal container :-O !!! from a host of nasty, nasty fungal viruses and bacterias. You only need a teaspoon per gallon so, despite the initial cost, it goes a long way and, most importantly of all, THIS STUFF WORKS!!!
Best o' success; that little laurel is a beautiful plant that you can see wants to get bigger and make you happy but, right now, it needs: more room, some elevation, better drainage, a good systemic insecticide and practically any fungicide (although a systemic should be your first preference).