[Lauerw]

2024

Bewitched in the front 3.5k
Mix of what was there and Fielder's Choice/ Resilience II on the 2k side.
Back is salad 4.5k mix with Resilience II / Super Turf II overseed.

I am putting more focus input wise on the front/side this year and reducing the backyard items so it is usable for the kids and dog. I will set up my above ground sprinklers with timers in the front/side again and enjoy watering less than for establishment and maybe drag one standing sprinkler around in the back depending how it looks.

Well, this feels like a luxury having time to plan vs just hitting June last year and deciding to do a deep dive on lawn care.

I have been playing with a plan for this year based on @secured2k comments on the Overseed to reno thread, here.

The Lesco Starter fert I got on sale over the winter so I just wanted to use it first. I put down enough lime last year to get the soil to 6.5 based on the bag, no idea where I am at right now with the AMS used in the fall. I was hoping to combine tank mixes in the front, not sure how long I can get away with the fungicide period in between.

These were both established last fall, I am thinking of waiting till 2026 to do pre-emergent and deal with what comes up this year to give it time to grow and establish.

I would also like to top dress at some point this year to even out my mow in the front, possibly ready to reel mow in 2026. I was wondering if I should do that in the spring or the fall?

Thanks for all your information and help here! Can't wait for the nice weather again.

 

[secured2k]

Hi,

pH/Lime: Near the end of Winter, check your pH and adjust through the year based on the results. If you used a good amount of AMS, you will probably need to apply a maintenance amount of lime.

Fungicide: Most home lawns do not need this. You can prevent many issues with just proper mowing, watering, drainage, in non-shaded areas. If you still want to use general protective or curative applications, check out Headway or Pillar Intrinsic and apply during the common key holiday times: Around Memorial Day, US Independence Day, and Labor Day. Since you can do these up to 4 times a year, you might add an application in Aug. You can buffer times in between with group 1, 7 ($$$), or other fungicide (including natural/nutrient options) for a specific target disease. Again, I don't recommend this unless you are going for the highly maintained field and willing to spend a lot of $ on products every 2 weeks... on a non-residential property.
Note: Group 3 (e.g., propiconazole) fungicides can have a slight growth regulating (slowing) effect. These might help if you don't like fast growth in Spring/Fall (requires more mowing).

Pre-M: It is fine to wait, but if you have a known weed problem, it might still be worth it. The other option to skip Pre-M and only use Post Emergent is also perfectly fine, but make sure you get them early as weeds that take over and then die tend to leave gaps in the lawn.

Top Dress: If you haven't done this in a while and soil tests show low organic matter (< 3%), this is fine. You can do this any time the grass will optimally grow with ideal times being fall and spring.
Use quality aged compost. If you don't trust the source or the aging part, process it yourself with a "compost starter" product. Compost will also provide some slow-release natural food to the lawn so fertilizer requirements will be lower.
If you were looking to level the lawn, you could do the same with mason sand (no nutrients).
I would do .25-.5-inch thickness, preferably after a 4-pass core aeration.


About the fertilizer chart based on potential growth:
You should apply at the start of the month based on the fertilizer effective life and efficiency.

Effective Life: If you have a fertilizer that can last 2 months (close to 50/50 fast/slow release), you might put down (.525 + .75) 1.275 lbs N at the start of May and expect it to last through June. You should consider that the speed of slow-release products will be affected by the weather (could be faster or slower). If using mostly fast release, apply the monthly amount at the start of the month.

Efficiency: If you put down 1 lb of N, but 50% of it is lost to volatilization, leeching, etc., then you are effectively only putting down .5 lb/s of N. If your goal was .75 lbs to the plants, you would need to put down a total of 1.5 lbs instead. We don't have a way to precisely measure the loss for every environment and situation, so I am not advising you should always put more down just because of potential loss. Instead, you should monitor the response and adjust up as needed. Too much and you could cause serious damage - it is easier to go back and add a little more than try to neutralize/remove products already applied.


RGS: Optional, micro benefit.

Liquid Iron: Optional, more benefit exiting fall to maintain color with less sunlight and when top growth stops. In Spring, grass will grow fast and green up on its own. Make sure the product is chelated and can be used in your soil's pH.

Talak 7.9 (Bifenthrin) - Assume this won't last more than 8 weeks. I would move this up to a month before insects are usually first visible as a preventative and repeat every 2 months until no longer needed for the season. Also consider adding an IGR like Nygard.

 

[Lauerw]

Hi,

pH/Lime: Near the end of Winter, check your pH and adjust through the year based on the results. If you used a good amount of AMS, you will probably need to apply a maintenance amount of lime.

Fungicide: Most home lawns do not need this. You can prevent many issues with just proper mowing, watering, drainage, in non-shaded areas. If you still want to use general protective or curative applications, check out Headway or Pillar Intrinsic and apply during the common key holiday times: Around Memorial Day, US Independence Day, and Labor Day. Since you can do these up to 4 times a year, you might add an application in Aug. You can buffer times in between with group 1, 7 ($$$), or other fungicide (including natural/nutrient options) for a specific target disease. Again, I don't recommend this unless you are going for the highly maintained field and willing to spend a lot of $ on products every 2 weeks... on a non-residential property.
Note: Group 3 (e.g., propiconazole) fungicides can have a slight growth regulating (slowing) effect. These might help if you don't like fast growth in Spring/Fall (requires more mowing).

Pre-M: It is fine to wait, but if you have a known weed problem, it might still be worth it. The other option to skip Pre-M and only use Post Emergent is also perfectly fine, but make sure you get them early as weeds that take over and then die tend to leave gaps in the lawn.

Top Dress: If you haven't done this in a while and soil tests show low organic matter (< 3%), this is fine. You can do this any time the grass will optimally grow with ideal times being fall and spring.
Use quality aged compost. If you don't trust the source or the aging part, process it yourself with a "compost starter" product. Compost will also provide some slow-release natural food to the lawn so fertilizer requirements will be lower.
If you were looking to level the lawn, you could do the same with mason sand (no nutrients).
I would do .25-.5-inch thickness, preferably after a 4-pass core aeration.


About the fertilizer chart based on potential growth:
You should apply at the start of the month based on the fertilizer effective life and efficiency.

Effective Life: If you have a fertilizer that can last 2 months (close to 50/50 fast/slow release), you might put down (.525 + .75) 1.275 lbs N at the start of May and expect it to last through June. You should consider that the speed of slow-release products will be affected by the weather (could be faster or slower). If using mostly fast release, apply the monthly amount at the start of the month.

Efficiency: If you put down 1 lb of N, but 50% of it is lost to volatilization, leeching, etc., then you are effectively only putting down .5 lb/s of N. If your goal was .75 lbs to the plants, you would need to put down a total of 1.5 lbs instead. We don't have a way to precisely measure the loss for every environment and situation, so I am not advising you should always put more down just because of potential loss. Instead, you should monitor the response and adjust up as needed. Too much and you could cause serious damage - it is easier to go back and add a little more than try to neutralize/remove products already applied.


RGS: Optional, micro benefit.

Liquid Iron: Optional, more benefit exiting fall to maintain color with less sunlight and when top growth stops. In Spring, grass will grow fast and green up on its own. Make sure the product is chelated and can be used in your soil's pH.

Talak 7.9 (Bifenthrin) - Assume this won't last more than 8 weeks. I would move this up to a month before insects are usually first visible as a preventative and repeat every 2 months until no longer needed for the season. Also consider adding an IGR like Nygard.

Thanks for the Info, I will have to digest it for a little bit.

I am working on getting all set with the soil test for when it thaws around here. Last year I did the yard mastery soil test, this year I am planning on the university extension in NY, probably one for the back and one for the front. I will put down lime early based on the results.

After going back and forth I decided on Pre Emergent this year, it will be good to get the practice in and I have plenty of post left to spot spray if needed. I am going to go with the Prodiamine WDG 65, probably split to get me to August/Sept overseeding.

I will probably just use up the RGS I have on hand at this point. As for fungicides I think I had issues because I was watering for establishment last year. Hopefully with less frequent watering this year there should be less of an issue, I will just keep some on hand and skip the preventative.

I did a compost/sand 50 50 mix last year for some deep spots, I just want to gradually fix it over time. Probably should have done more with the reno to level.

Going from no insect control last year I just really want to get it under control this year. I will have to look more into this, thanks for the detailed reply.

 

[secured2k]

Thanks for the Info, I will have to digest it for a little bit.

I am working on getting all set with the soil test for when it thaws around here. Last year I did the yard mastery soil test, this year I am planning on the university extension in NY, probably one for the back and one for the front. I will put down lime early based on the results.

After going back and forth I decided on Pre Emergent this year, it will be good to get the practice in and I have plenty of post left to spot spray if needed. I am going to go with the Prodiamine WDG 65, probably split to get me to August/Sept overseeding.

I will probably just use up the RGS I have on hand at this point. As for fungicides I think I had issues because I was watering for establishment last year. Hopefully with less frequent watering this year there should be less of an issue, I will just keep some on hand and skip the preventative.

I did a compost/sand 50 50 mix last year for some deep spots, I just want to gradually fix it over time. Probably should have done more with the reno to level.

Going from no insect control last year I just really want to get it under control this year. I will have to look more into this, thanks for the detailed reply.

You're welcome.

Soil Tests: Use tests that are not kept or sent in a liquid. Tests where you send dry soil to a local lab will provide more accurate results. Using the extension/university test is perfectly fine.

PreM Prodiamine: This lasts longer based on how much you put down. Ensure the application rate is correct for how long you want it to remain effective.

Fungicides: I would still follow the holiday schedule for preventative measures, as these are key times of stress. The combination products for Pillar Intrinsic or Headway are good broad-spectrum options, with Intrinsic products having a slight edge for plant growth/development/protection.

Insect Control: Grub Ex (or product with the same active ingredient) twice a year is enough for the grass. The 2nd app is optional but for armyworms in the fall if you have them. Insecticides (ending in -thrin) can help with other surface insects. My targets are ants/termites/roaches (use slower/different products for systemic kills), fleas in country areas (must use an IGR), and flying insects like mosquitoes (must treat the shaded/underside areas of bushes/trees/structures. An IGR can help). Don't spray flowering plants for the pollinators!

 

[Montauket]

Dairy One is another good NAPT Lab 16 bucks, if you want soluble salts 22 bucks.

 

[Lauerw]

Dairy One is another good NAPT Lab 16 bucks, if you want soluble salts 22 bucks.

Yea that is what I am going with after I found out they process Cornell University tests, already got my account all created. Just waiting for the snow to disappear now. Going to submit one for the front lawn and one for the backyard.

 

[Lauerw]

Got outside the last few days, snow is finally melting here. Still have some spots where there is some, I was the neighbor shoveling it out onto my driveway yesterday to help it along haha. Been just doing spring cleanup tasks. Lots of sticks and dog poop in the back.

Since my last update I did change things around for my plan. I am going with Prodiamine in the spring and will plan on overseeding in the fall. I moved the Lesco starter to the fall with that change, I will probably put down sta-green 13-13-13 for the spring. Ordered some Tuff Turf after dark for the back and side for the fall. Will deal with top dressing/leveling then as well.

Waiting a few more days for the soil test, too hard to get the probe in now.

Lots of snow mold to blow off/rake out shortly, everything is still so wet and mushy.

Been thinking of getting a cordless dethatcher/scarifier, thinking the Worx one, Sun Joe or WEN. Waiting to set up the DIY irrigation for the front and side. Feels good to be back on the lawn.

 

[secured2k]

Soil test before fertilizer. You probably don't need a 13-13-13.
Soil probes were tough in the past. I opted to spend $ on a larger, heavy-duty one, which has made it a breeze.
Check out "VonHaus" for an electric scarifier/dethatcher. I'm not sure how well a cordless one can work, as these usually encounter resistance when hitting the ground. I can't imagine the battery lasting very long. The battery versions are probably a lot more expensive.

 

[Montauket]

I just ordered the corded WEN based on some pretty high Amazon reviews and a couple of guys here that liked them. Should be here Wednesday, and if it is dry enough I plan on doing a light raking with the spring tines over the weekend. If it happens I'll post it in my journal.

 

[Lauerw]

I just ordered the corded WEN based on some pretty high Amazon reviews and a couple of guys here that liked them. Should be here Wednesday, and if it is dry enough I plan on doing a light raking with the spring tines over the weekend. If it happens I'll post it in my journal.

Ended up going with the worx one, should be here Wednesday too. Will be nice to scarify over the weekend as I’m getting close to pre emergent time.

Soil test is getting mailed out tomorrow, not sure what the turn around time is with them, will adjust lime plans accordingly. Just still removing debris, trying not to do too much yet.

 

[Montauket]

They told me about 2 weeks on the test results.

 

[Montauket]

FYI mailed the samples on Saturday got it back today. May select a different company next time, info is there for the basics, but recommendations are week.

 

[Lauerw]

Well, at least the snow is finally gone. The front Bewitched doesn’t look too bad, should fill in nicely once it finally gets going.

The side Fielders Choice/Resilience II overseed got hit with a lot of snow mold. I am trying to be gentle and it’s early, just working on the air flow. It’s gonna get cold again the next week or so, waiting on pre emergent. I was surprised by the 7 GDD so far, didn’t think there was anything.

Soil test arrived today at the lab, will see how the results are. Dethatcher/scarifier is here too, will clean up shortly.

Hauling storage bins of hoses back to the garage was a lot heavier than I thought, gotta work on the 26 budget for in ground lol.

 

[Lauerw]

Soil test is back! I went with the Mehlich 3 based on research on here. The Front was a combo of my previous denoted Front and Side, while the Back remained just the Back.

Here is the Front one, had no idea the P was that low.

And here is the back.

Bonus 2024 Yard Mastery one for comparisions (I know it's not great). I believe this was only the Front.

Applied half a bag of lime to the front per 1000 sq ft, will not be chasing the PH number from here on out, just wanted to have a comfortable cushion with AMS there. Re thinking my spring fert app based on the low P. I did enjoy the recommendations from the soil test were in Acres. Still holding on the pre emergent, I did get the mower running the other day and did some leaf clean up, too early to cut anything yet. Maybe I will attach the lawn striper, I can only pick up so many sticks.

 

[Montauket]

Who did you use for the test may I ask, I like the format and app. Thanks

 

[Lauerw]

Who did you use for the test may I ask, I like the format and app. Thanks

The first two were the Dairy one, I went with the form D and the standard plus for us in NY.

The 2024 one was through yard mastery. You can search for threads on here I think people have issue with how much they disclose for their testing method, how valid it is.

I tried out my scarifier the other day on a small section of KBG, it pulled out a little too much healthy tissue for my liking, I think it is just too early here. Nice to see you had a good experience with yours.

 

[Montauket]

Good to know thanks. I had the Mod Morgan done at D1. 834 I believe. From your test I think I will get the m3 next year.

My scarifier has 4 setting and I ran it on setting 2 with the spring tines . I didn't want to go to crazy my lawn is kind of on the thin side.

 

[PNWLawnnewb]

Great thread. I love the spreadsheet you created!

I’m going to have to try to do the same. The lawns has become my get away from life!

 

[Lauerw]

Applied Pre Emergent finally with the weekend precipitation coming up. Went with the 4 month rate of Prodiamine WDG 65. Included RGS and Talak 7.9% (Bifenthrin) in the tank as well.

Front .96 oz Prodiamine, 3.5 oz Talak and 10.5 oz RGS
Side .55 oz Prodiamine, 2 oz Talak and 6 oz RGS

I was going to do the back as well but didn't get to it. Mole/Vole tunnels are getting more active from the neighbors borders, wanted to keep ahead of it. Would prefer not to deploy a trap with a small dog and children.

Neighbors got a spring clean up and I caught the guy blowing leaves across my lawn. Ended up doing a charity mow on mine just to pick up and not make a problem for anyone else. More grass than I thought would be in with the leaves. I hope we get spring eventually but the 10 day still isn't great. At least there are plenty of good journals to follow along on here!

 

[lordofchance]

Applied Pre Emergent finally with the weekend precipitation coming up. Went with the 4 month rate of Prodiamine WDG 65. Included RGS and Talak 7.9% (Bifenthrin) in the tank as well.

Front .96 oz Prodiamine, 3.5 oz Talak and 10.5 oz RGS
Side .55 oz Prodiamine, 2 oz Talak and 6 oz RGS

I was going to do the back as well but didn't get to it. Mole/Vole tunnels are getting more active from the neighbors borders, wanted to keep ahead of it. Would prefer not to deploy a trap with a small dog and children.

Neighbors got a spring clean up and I caught the guy blowing leaves across my lawn. Ended up doing a charity mow on mine just to pick up and not make a problem for anyone else. More grass than I thought would be in with the leaves. I hope we get spring eventually but the 10 day still isn't great. At least there are plenty of good journals to follow along on here!

If this helps; I had a small vole problem last spring, and I hoped the local hawks would remidiate. Unfortunatly that turned into a large vole problem by fall.

I had similar concerns with kids\pets so I called a professional. They were extremely helpful and sold me Protecta Mouse traps that require a key to unlock. They used Contrac for the bait and explained it has a lower risk of secondary posioning if an animal were to find\eat the vole. They had to come out a couple of times to refill the traps but we had no issues with the pets\kids. As of this spring no vole problems.