[Erics Orchard]

After four years working to get our citrus orchard renovated and on track I am moving into more specific ornamental care and starting the process of bringing back the lawn. We grow 26 varieties of fruit and have about 200 trees.


The lawn is located in Valley Center, CA. It is 25 years old, was neglected by the previous homeowner and is composed of a number of species including Kikuyugrass, Bermuda, St. Augustine as well as some sporadic fescue patches.

I have been trying to establish an order and plan for each step.

1. Repair Irrigation - Completed. Summer irrigation frequency was every three days. Duration 40 mins per station, providing about 1/2 to 5/8" of water using Rainbird rotary nozzles on a 30 station Hunter I-core panel.

2. Aerate and fertilize - Core Aeration was recently performed by a local aeration service with an old Classen aerator. Fertilizer has been applied every three months. I Initially used yara 15.15.15 and have switched to the Yara "Turf Royale" 3.1.2 product in the last 6 months. I apply approximately 50 lbs to the 4500 sqft lawn using both a push and handheld broadcast spreader

3. Dethatch - I had asked the lawn aeration provider to dethatch the lawn as well but they said I was too late in the season. I'm not sure that's the case after reading more on the subject but feel this may be something I will perform myself due to the frequency needed and cost of service. After reading about Kikuyugrass maintenance, it seems that the recommendation is to dethatch 3 times per year. I am trying to identify the correct equipment and methodology. I am not sure if a slice seeder or dedicated flail unit or perhaps a greens mower with verticutting reel is the best. The thatch is primarily an issue in the Kikuyu and Bermuda lawns. Any suggestions on a machine and also best timing for Southern California with respect to kikuyu and Bermuda?

4. Reseed - I had previously overseeded a few areas (500sqft) with Marathon II (fescue blend). I had applied a forest mulch based seed topper to combat birds and retain moisture for germination and had decent success. I recently purchased some Bermuda seed which I had planned on over-seeding with?? Not sure about the best species and method. I am planning on starting to reseed the patchy areas in the next few weeks as we move away from the high 80's. While it may be a whole separate item, removing weeds may also be something to address prior to seeding. There's a lot of crab grass and other weeds that have become part of the accepted lawn.

5. Top dress - there is significant unevenness throughout the lawn due to pocket gophers and mole tunnels during the past 20 years. I plan on performing the leveling/contouring in stages to prepare the lawn for a reduced HOC. I was initially thinking about using a material with some organic matter but see that sand is used very often. Is there a depth consideration that would dictate one or the other?

6. Reduce HOC - The lawn has been maintained with HOC at 2.5" mowed every 3 to 5 days using a 21" rotary bagging push mower with a frequently sharpened hi-lift blade. While it is much more green at the 2.5" height, I want to go lower and recently set the HOC to 2". Eventually, I would like to see it closer to 1" or less once the lawn has been leveled out.

Below are some photos of the current state of the lawn.

















Kikuyu thatch:


.

Thanks for taking to time to review my post. I look forward to any thoughts, tips, reccomendations etc.

 

[Ware]

Beautiful place! Welcome to TLF!

 

[Colonel K0rn]

Welcome to TLF Eric. I imagine you have your hands full with the operation of the orchard, and when you have that many trees to tend to, its easy to let projects that you face every day slide. It sounds like you've taken some steps in the right direction toward getting the fundamentals in order (overseeding, irrigation, etc), so you're off to a great start. It looks like you've got some beautiful vegetation, and hardscapes in place, but those slopes are tricky. Makes me glad I've got relatively flat land here on the east coast.

I'm not sure if you want to keep the kikuyu grass, seeing as it's on the Federal and California Noxious weed listing. I guess that's how the cool season grass members think of bermuda Judging by your thread title, I'm thinking you want to keep it. I had a friend in La Mesa whose parents had a beautiful lawn, and I'm pretty sure that it was kikuyu grass, which was probably the reason it always looked nice during the El Nino summers.

The nice thing about kikuyu is that it tolerates a low cut, down to 0.5", and since you've been cutting at 2.5, that's probably the reason it's outcompeting the other grass types that you've got in the area. It's really a great grass, considering that it's got multiple ways to grow: seed heads, stolons and rhizomes. It's like the trifecta, compared to Kudzu. Poor cultural practices made that plant here in the southeast become a bane of overgrowth and neglect. I've seen that plant completely overtake corner lots in 2 years time.

I'd suggest (and this is my opinion only) that you look at getting a powered reel mower, with a groomer attachment, like the Toro Greensmaster 21", with a groomer. That would give you the ability to have the low HOC, and you might not have to remove as much thatch by using the groomer, vs verticutting. However, if you are planning on levelling, and without knowing how thick the canopy of the grass that you have is, it might be a moot point to go ahead and get a machine to allow you to verticut.

There's a lot of crab grass and other weeds that have become part of the accepted lawn.

UNACCECPABRU! You don't have to put up with weeds. If you see weeds, don't hesitate to strike them down with everything you can. They are the true enemy Quinclorac is going to be the best killer for crabgrass, but it would be solid practice to see if you can identify all of the weeds that you're dealing with in your lot. It's been a long time since I lived in the SD area, so I couldn't tell you the best time to put down a preemergent; you might want to talk to your extension agent, or heck, your local Site One sales rep, and ask them when most of the techs are putting down their Pre-E, which you could choose between Simazine or Prodiamine. Either one are solid choices. Get the Pre-E down so you don't have to worry about weeds during the winter, and with bermuda, you're going to want to aerate and overseed during the spring.

Hope this gets you started, and again, welcome to TLF.

 

[Spammage]

I'm glad you're here, as I've always thought that kikuyu would be interesting. They are actually testing and breeding for improved cultivars. It will be interesting to see how this comes together for you.

I would also suggest mowing lower and much more frequently. From what I read, trying to keep it under an inch would likely require mowing every two days at a minimum. I don't know if primo would work or what rates to try since I don't think it is listed on the label.

Weed herbicides should be spot treated at first to see how the kikuyu will react, as again most herbicides won't include it in the labeling.

Keep us updated with pictures and info, as you are already the resident guru for kikuyu here.

 

[Erics Orchard]

Thanks for the feedback,

I believe Torrey Pines golf course has learned to embrace the Kikuyu after attempting to fight it. With respect to the reel mower, I have been looking at the Toro as well as the Tru-cut. A reel mower is certainly in the future plans but I would like to be sure I get the best machine for my lawns variety of species and rolling contour). It will be something I add after some of the other issues are resolved unless there is a specific unit which can also address the dethatching task saving the need for two machines. Perhaps the Toro greensmaster with the thatching kit. I do want to make sure I have a high level of performance, reliability and simplified maintenance/sharpening program with both cutting and dethatching. I see grooming and verticutting as two separate operations focused on different issues but lack the practical experience to know which is best suited for my focus on aesthetics rather than playability.

Thoughts?

 

[J_nick]

.... I don't know if primo would work or what rates to try since I don't think it is listed on the label

....Keep us updated with pictures and info, as you are already the resident guru for kikuyu here.

Kikuyu is listed on my bottle of generic Primo Maxx. Calls for .3-.5oz/1000.

We have quite a few Australian members on here. I think they would have more experience with Kikuyu than any of us from the states. They should just be waking up from winter down there.

 

[Erics Orchard]

I have a commercial applicators license for pesticides and herbicides which I use in my Orchard. I run a 450psi 60 gallon rig on a UTV spraying several thousand gallons a year between foliar feeds and pesticide apps. When it comes to spraying grasses, I haven't done it. I will need to read up on application methods/tank mixes. I purchased some Image nutsedge and clover killer but have yet to try it. I will read over the Primo maxx label and will pick it, or the generic, up to give a spot test and see how it works.

Thanks for the lead.

 

[Spammage]

Kikuyu is listed on my bottle of generic Primo Maxx. Calls for .3-.5oz/1000.

We have quite a few Australian members on here. I think they would have more experience with Kikuyu than any of us from the states. They should just be waking up from winter down there.

Doh! I knew I should have pulled the label.

I too was wondering about our Southern Hemisphere brothers, but I don't think I've seen it mentioned here before.

I will admit, I have issues. I actually tried to get my hands on some hybrid seed a couple of years ago to play around with.

 

[Erics Orchard]

I have reviewed the suggested herbicides. As a pre-emergent, Prodiamine 65 WDG Can be applied over kikuyu and likely what I will look to apply in January per the product label. For the control of crabgrass, the quinclorac lists Kikuyugrass under its targeted species, so that's not an option for me. I haven't been able to find anything that kills crabgrass without affecting the Kikuyu. It seems some folks in the Aussie forums suggest that mechanical removal or careful spot spraying/gel application with glyphosate are the common options. There are some selective herbicides which appear to be safe for Kikuyu and target broadleaf weeds including bindii, clover, dandelions and thistle. Yates Weed and Feed (Dicamba and MCPA) Is what was referenced but I have always tried to stay clear of the weed and feed products. There appears to be a number of commercial products available with this composition such as Clarity and Banvel but do not list Kikuyu specifically. Being able to test these kinds of products could get very expensive if they are only sold as commercial concentrates. I am hoping there are unrestricted diluted versions available. I am going to work on identifying the present weeds and go from there.

 

[Erics Orchard]

Here is the list of weed species in my lawn:

Clover


Spotted Spurge


Dandelion


Crabgrass


The Clarity label lists clover, spurge and dandelion. While Prodiamine will address future germination of crabgrass and the other weeds in all my lawn species, I don't have anything identified for the established crabgrass except for pulling or spot treating. The only concern I have with spot treating is the amount of existing crabgrass. If anyone has any ideas on spraying crabgrass in Kikuyu, Bermuda and St Augustine, I would appreaciate any suggestions.

Thanks again for all the previous replies.

 

[Colonel K0rn]

Yates Weed and Feed (Dicamba and MCPA) Is what was referenced but I have always tried to stay clear of the weed and feed products.

Whatever you do, stay clear of dicamba, especially since you currently run an orchard! There are numerous documented reports of what dicamba does to trees, and it is a dangerous herbicide if used in the wrong way. The states of Arkansas and Missouri have banned its sale and use, due to the damage is has caused to trees, and other crops by drift.

 

[Erics Orchard]

Thanks for pointing out the issue with Dicamba. I was unaware of the controversy. I think it would work if applied correctly (proper tank mix, large particle, low pressure, low spray height, sufficient margin from trees and shrubs) but dont want to risk it. Like you mentioned regarding drift, aerial applications using a small particle size look like the main culprit. It seems that soybeans were the main concern. The Clarity I had mentioned earlier is an older product that was in the Dicamba controversy. There are some new formulations which decrease the volatility issue. The other issue I read about indicates that it does not break down in the soil and can impact trees and shrubs that may share a root zone with the turf. It appears there are a number of lawsuits surrounding the issue of the Dicamba labels not being sufficiently specific regarding application methods and "do not apply to" precautions. I will need to continue looking for a product that won't affet the Kikuyu and still take care of the weeds. It looks like Dicamba is in all kinds of lawn weed sprays.

 

[Ware]

Thanks for pointing out the issue with Dicamba. I was unaware of the controversy. I think it would work if applied correctly...

I agree, I think it would be fine if applied correctly. The controversy is over certain formulations of dicamba that are damaging some soybeans due to volatilization and/or misapplication. In eastern Arkansas (and surrounding states), many farmers were spraying it to treat their dicamba-tolerant soybean crops. Neighboring farmers opted to plant varieties of soybeans that are sensitive to dicamba, so it turned into a giant mess. The ban is for agricultural use only, and there is an exemption for products packaged in containers of one quart or less for use on pastures, lawns, gardens, and turf.

 

[Erics Orchard]

Here's the kikuyu a week after lowering the cut from 2 1/2" to 2".

After

Before

One question I have regarding the lawn... Should I let the lawn continue to fill in another week or two before lowering the height another notch to around 1 1/2"?

I am still looking for a dethatching/verticutting unit. There is a used Classen tr20 with flail blades for sale locally for $425. It was a Home Depot rental unit. Looks like it wasnt used much. Not sure what the resale value is but might pick it up. There's also a Toro greensmaster 1000 for $600.

 

[Erics Orchard]

Here is the Kikuyu section four weeks after lowering the deck to a HOC of 2" from 3". I also fertilized with manganese and iron.

Before:


After:


I am going to take it down to 1 1/2". I have been cutting every 2 to 3 days and notice a more lateral growth habit.

There is an obvious matrix of stolons and thatch which will be addressed in the spring when I start the verticutting process.

I also ran accross a great paper which reviews maintenance strategies of Kikuyu grass at a number of golf facilities. It addresses dethatching, aeration, topdressing, fertilization and herbicide application. All the key points I am looking at.

https://www.paceturf.org/PTRI/Documents/KS_2010_PG.pdf

 

[Redtenchu]

You are making nice progress! Very interesting Grass.

Thanks for sharing the document, it appears to be geared toward sports field maintenance. Is the plan a Sport field quality?

 

[Colonel K0rn]

Looks nice OP. Looks like it enjoyed the manganese and iron. I curious to see how it would react to an application of FAS. It's not uncommon to see the lateral growth increase when you increase the cut frequency and lower the HOC.

 

[Erics Orchard]

Is the plan a Sport field quality?

I would like to get as close to sport quality using the existing grass. My current focus is on eliminating the extensive weed problem and repairing some bare spots. Hopefully I will have a good handle on these items before verticutting and core aerating in the spring. I hope to start next summer with Full coverage and little to no weed activity. I would love to move on to topdressing with sand and getting ready to reduce my HOC to 1" once the surface is level enough to keep the mower from scalping low spots.

 

[Erics Orchard]

Here is an update. I have been mowing several times per week and ramping up on my irrigation schedule with the rising temperatures and longer days. My current HOC is 1". In a few weeks, I plan on verticutting, core aerating and fertilizing. It is filling in nicely and the volume of thatch has decreased quite a bit with the lower cut.

Before:


Current:

 

[PHXCobra]

Looks amazing!