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UFG8RMIKE said:
Amazing project and nice work.

Couple questions, my OCD would drive me nuts to have taken everything apart and not have replaced an engine with significant commercial use while at it. How much would a replacement have cost? Are you even able to find one?

Also, did you paint or powder coat? Any reasons not to powder coat?

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The Kawasaki is no longer produced, so a different engine would have to be used. There's a thread on here of a guy swapping a Honda onto one, but I believe he's having to alter some things. Might possibly be able to use the Subaru, but not sure if it'd be simple replacement.

He sandblasted and then repainted it himself. He did quite the job on it, very impressive.
 

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gsmornot said:
If you don't mind another slightly off topic question, any idea the limit of a Greensmaster on hills? Tru-Cut does fine with it but it has tires in the rear. My smaller Tru-Cut did not like running along the hill, felt like it wanted to slide down so I normally cut at an angle. Anyhow, sorry to be off topic, and I enjoyed the read of the other posts.
I have a GM1000 and it'll do fine on a hill as long as you're going up or down it or at an angle. It'll get decent traction on green grass, but not if it's dormant. Going sideways, it wants to just slide down the slope.
 

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cwrx82 said:
gsmornot said:
If you don't mind another slightly off topic question, any idea the limit of a Greensmaster on hills? Tru-Cut does fine with it but it has tires in the rear. My smaller Tru-Cut did not like running along the hill, felt like it wanted to slide down so I normally cut at an angle. Anyhow, sorry to be off topic, and I enjoyed the read of the other posts.
I have a GM1000 and it'll do fine on a hill as long as you're going up or down it or at an angle. It'll get decent traction on green grass, but not if it's dormant. Going sideways, it wants to just slide down the slope.
Thank you. That sounds like it would work fine for me.
 

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jimbeckel said:



Frame and other parts stripped and ready for primer and paint
Hello @jimbeckel I am currently attempting a restoration similar to yours. A few questions. What did you use to strip the paint? The part where the drum sits seems to be the most rusted part of the frame. Did you use any filler there?
The aluminum parts on the engine and on the deck does ANYONE have any ideas as to how to remove the oxidation? I have another 900 questions to ask but thanks for the unspiration and assistance guys

 

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jimbeckel said:



Frame and other parts stripped and ready for primer and paint
Hello @jimbeckel I am currently attempting a restoration similar to yours. A few questions. What did you use to strip the paint? The part where the drum sits seems to be the most rusted part of the frame. Did you use any filler there?
The aluminum parts on the engine and on the deck does ANYONE have any ideas as to how to remove the oxidation? I have another 900 questions to ask but thanks for the unspiration and assistance guys

 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
trickd122 said:
jimbeckel said:



Frame and other parts stripped and ready for primer and paint
Hello @jimbeckel I am currently attempting a restoration similar to yours. A few questions. What did you use to strip the paint? The part where the drum sits seems to be the most rusted part of the frame. Did you use any filler there?
The aluminum parts on the engine and on the deck does ANYONE have any ideas as to how to remove the oxidation? I have another 900 questions to ask but thanks for the unspiration and assistance guys

I just saw your post, been working in the yard all plugging zoysia. I sandblasted all the metal parts, used metal etching primer and then rattle can painted. I can send you my contact info if you need to call or email me. Good luck on your restoration, it was a fun project but expensive, Toro is proud of their parts
 

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jimbeckel said:

Applied some new decals after UPS arrived
Super super project. I've had lots of fun catching up reading it from the beginning but probably nothing like going through the process like this hands on. I'm sure it's quite fulfilling for you.

I do have a simple question ...where did you order your replacement decals? I'm replacing a few on my mower (not a toro) but I can use a few of the decals for mine.

More specifically the danger and warning decals adjacent to the reel

Parts # 93-8064
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
I ordered mine from jerry pate turf in Pensacola Fl. I believe most of the decals were not in stock and were drop shipped from toro corporate. There were a few that were discontinued. Good luck with your search.
 

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jimbeckel said:
Carb, fuel shut off, muffler pull rope assembly and air filter cover.I have to bead blast some of the engine covers and i'll be mostly reassembled.
Where did you order your fuel shut off from? My fuel shut off leaks from the bowl area when i open the value and I'd rather replace the entire area than just a gasket or O-ring.
 

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jimbeckel said:
Work progressing nicely, side covers replaced along with most of the fuel related components. Started it up and engaged the rear drum and reel successfully. Will be stripping the unit down to the frame and repainting and going over everything with a high attention to detail.






I am looking for replacement side covers for my GM1000. Could you provide me with where you purchased your new side pieces? Great work! I am gearing up to restore mine as well. Also, looking for decals. I have messaged Jerry Pate to see if they are still able to get decals. I work on Redstone Arsenal so I am using most of my resources in the Huntsville area for trying to get replacement parts/Toro Dealers. I believe you mentioned that you found another place that you ordered parts from that was cheaper than going through the Toro Dealer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
I also work on the Arsenal, I downloaded the Toro parts diagram, in it you will find all of the part numbers including decals. There were a few decals that have been discontinued but the majority are still available. I ordered most of the Parts from Jerry Pate out of Pensacola Fl. The local Sunbelt dealer claimed they could get turf parts but that turned into a dead end. If you need any help on your project I am right outside gate 7 on Martin Road.
 

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Awesome, I talked to a guy from Jerry Pate today and sent a list of parts that I would need to restore mine. Man are the parts expensive! Right now, I am just trying to get all of the black gunk and everything off the parts so that I can really see what is going on. Trying to find something that I can spray that will loosen everything up so that I can just spray it off with a hose and get down into this thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
I used super clean and that purple degreaser, started by scrapping off as much as I could and then would let my parts soak in a oil change pan coated in degreaser. I also sandblasted most of my parts on base at the MWR automotive skills facility (closed temporarily because of covid19). You are correct in that Toro parts are not cheap, the mowers are built like a tank though. If you need a hand with anything on your restoration just let me know and I will send you my contact info.
 

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OKC - GM1000 - U3 Bermuda - 4000 sq ft
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Did you have any trouble removing the wheel axles? Didn't see you mention it so you got lucky considering it sat for 4 years. I'm having a hell of a time trying every method (penetrating oil, torch, impact gun) to remove mine. Last thing I want to do is cut it off. Also bump this gem because it was fun reading through the progression.
 

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Bombers said:
Did you have any trouble removing the wheel axles? Didn't see you mention it so you got lucky considering it sat for 4 years. I'm having a hell of a time trying every method (penetrating oil, torch, impact gun) to remove mine. Last thing I want to do is cut it off. Also bump this gem because it was fun reading through the progression.
If I remember correctly, there's a flat spot right next to the drum, inside the frame wall. Stick a wrench on that and get some heat and a breaker bar and it'll come loose. One side, don't recall which, has left hand threads.
 
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