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Jesse's 2018 Restoration

26509 Views 154 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  Green, 
J
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Hey All-

I am bored and my lawn is under several inches of snow, so I figured I would start a thread for this upcoming season. I live in central CT and I have a mix of old school fescues mostly. (My house was built in 1918 and it looked like no one ever cared for the lawn since that time) Lawn is roughly 6500 sq ft. I use a cheapo craftsman rotary with a mulch blade I put on. I made a lot of really good progress this year by just adopting some of the basics like taller cuts and deeper watering. I did an aerate, partial overseed on labor day and had good results in the areas I did. While I absolutely drool over the low cut *** videos I've seen here, a renovation is not in the cards at this point. I just want a healthy lawn that is nice looking grass and not weeds.

I just completed a soil test from UCONN. Here are my results-



I did receive some recommendations from UConn for limestone and fert.


My soil texture is clay loam from my unscientific mason jar test.


Here are some pictures showing where I was as of this fall along with some before pics from the spring.

I did pretty well reseeding in the front yard last spring under the maple as the weed pressure here wasn't too bad. Got mostly grass except along the edges of the driveway and road.


Here was a before pic of this area-


I reseeded this area in the spring too, but as you can see, crabgrass took over most of this section and overall this was unsucessful. Full sun, tons of crabgrass.


Here is my backyard in mid-september. I reseeded and watered the area on the right where I had large bare spots.


Here is the before pic of the backyard when I first moved in


Here you can see where either the salt or heat from the road cooked the grass (again, spring seeded this area)


So as much as I will want to resume seeding in the spring, I am going to listen to G-man and work on improving the soil, leveling and smoothing, and getting the weeds down in spring and full aerate, overseed in the fall with Thor TTTF which is rated the highest up here according to NTEP. (open to suggestions on blends or other alternatives)


One question I have is on the limestone recommendation. Since i have low PH along with low levels of calcium and magnesium I want dolomitic limestone, right? I cannot seem to find that at the big box stores, is there a common brand I should look for? What about Jonathan Green's Mag-i-cal product for raising soil PH, has anyone used that product? Also, I have Azaleas and Rhododendrons in the backyard. Do I just take care not to lime right up to them since they like the acidic soil?

My next question is around irrigation. Installing an in-ground irrigation system is not in the cards (or my budget). I've seen some photos here of people with hoses with multiple impact sprinklers attached. Any links or suggestions? I plan on getting a second hose this year so I have one for the front and one for the backyard. I'll attach them to a splitter so I can easily go from watering the front to the back.

Lastly, I know there are several types of pre-em for crabgrass control. What is recommended given I will be resseding in September?

Thanks for taking the time to read this and help out a newb. I'm loving my new found hobby and can't wait for spring! :)

Jesse
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social port
Nice thread, Jesse.

jessehurlburt said:
overseed in the fall with Thor TTTF which is rated the highest up here according to NTEP. (open to suggestions on blends or other alternatives)
Click to expand...
It would be a good idea to use several TTTF cultivars...Thor and maybe 2-3 others. Using different cultivars can help constrain disease outbreak in case one of your varieties is susceptible.

jessehurlburt said:
I reseeded this area in the spring too, but as you can see, crabgrass took over most of this section and overall this was unsucessful. Full sun, tons of crabgrass.
Click to expand...
Do you know what went wrong? No PreM? Did the grass not survive the heat?

jessehurlburt said:
I've seen some photos here of people with hoses with multiple impact sprinklers attached. Any links or suggestions?
Click to expand...
I suppose that there is a lot of room for debate here, but personally, I think impacts are the way to go for putting down high amounts of water on an established lawn. I would recommend getting impacts that have a well-defined base that will keep them stable. I would avoid impacts that stick in the ground. I don't have a brand suggestion, though I do find Gilmour's pattern master to be useful.
That being said, I would not use impacts for a reno because of the force generated by the sprinklers. For a reno, you want something with a lighter touch. I'm not sure about impacts for an overseed...

jessehurlburt said:
Lastly, I know there are several types of pre-em for crabgrass control. What is recommended given I will be resseding in September?
Click to expand...
If you follow the application rates closely, you can use Scott's starter fert with mesotrione (tenacity) (I believe it is called Scott's starter food for new grass plus weed preventer) on the day that you overseed. If you don't want to go with Scott's, I'm pretty sure that you can buy granular mesotrione by itself, though it has been a while since I looked into this. But the takeaway here is that mesotrione is a really good choice for a Pre-M when you overseed.

Also, you will want to have the weeds eliminated by your seeding date. Most post emergents that you buy in big box stores have a 30 day window for reseeding.
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J
Yeah, I did not use any preM last year since I was seeding all year and had yet to learn about Tenacity. Is a fall PreM suggested while overseeding? I was under the impression that if you use a PreM in the spring and keep the weeds down for the season you can seed in the fall without one- am I mistaken? Is it more for Poa and other weed grasses aside from crabgrass? Would crabgrass germinate in Sept?

I saw Ware posted in the irrigation thread about these two being used together, but I can't visualize how that sprinkler connects to the base? What is wrong with the kind that stick in the ground, do they move around or something?

The areas that are the thinnest I will coat with Peat and hand water most likely until established.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Orbit-5-000-sq-ft-Rotating-Spike-Lawn-Sprinkler/3678506
https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-2-Inch-Metal-Sprinkler-58030/dp/B00004S24U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1491856824&sr=8-5&keywords=orbit+sprinkler+base

Thanks for your thoughts Social.. :D
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social port
jessehurlburt said:
I was under the impression that if you use a PreM in the spring and keep the weeds down for the season you can seed in the fall without one- am I mistaken
Click to expand...
I'm not sure about this. I suppose that if weed pressure is low, then that plan would make sense. But why risk it?

jessehurlburt said:
Is a fall PreM suggested while overseeding?
Click to expand...
Mesotrione is one of the few that you can use at seeding and yes, I would recommend it on the day that you overseed.
jessehurlburt said:
Would crabgrass germinate in Sept?
Click to expand...
I don't know. I believe that crabgrass can continue to germinate into late summer. Mesotrione can control several pests, including crabgrass, goosegrass, and yellow nutsedge. It is not limited to crabgrass.

jessehurlburt said:
I saw Ware posted in the irrigation thread about these two being used together, but I can't visualize how that sprinkler connects to the base?
Click to expand...
That sprinkler goes straight into the ground. And it works very well. It is also not an impact sprinkler. In my opinion, that is an excellent option for seeding. I used about 8 of those in my reno.
jessehurlburt said:
What is wrong with the kind that stick in the ground, do they move around or something?
Click to expand...
It's a soft recommendation based on personal experience. Anytime that I have used impacts that stick in the ground, I find that they are not stable and move around. When you are playing a precision game (and that's usually what you have to do when trying to cover all areas of the lawn), having even slight movement from the sprinklers is counterproductive and frustrating. I'm sure that some spiked impacts are better than others--I just haven't found the better ones.
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Thanks for the help with the types of sprinklers. I was thinking an impact sprinkler was "the kind you stick in the ground". Lol. I see how these are different. I have an impact sprinkler but this was what I was looking for.

For seeding areas and general watering 2-3 of these in a row would make it so much easier.
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g-man
Jesse:

Your ph is 6.4. Their lime recommendation is just to get you to 6.6. A ph between 6-6.9 is fine for a lawn and you don't really need to do anything.

I don't recommend impact sprinklers. They take forever to get 1in, noisy and very uneven. The one you listed from lowes is a good option. Another option is to use a spike and mount an irrigation head and nozzle, but you do have to deal with the hoses. Ryan explains it in this youtube video. An oscillating sprinkler is another good option that could make a rectangular pattern.

Spring PreM: two main options, but check what you could buy at your state. Prodiamine (Barricade) and Dithiopyr (Dimension). You apply them in early spring to prevent crabgrass (and other weeds) that germinate starting in May. The rate is chosen to allow it to wear off around late July. This will then allow you to grow from seed in August.

When overseeding, the existing lawn helps prevent weeds from growing (very different than a reno with bare soil). In my opinion you do not need Tenacity in an overseed. Under careful use, it could help, but it could also affect any fine fescues within your lawn if you use too much.

Fall PreM: a fall prem helps avoiding Poa A and other winter weeds. It is applied around August (when the spring one is wearing off). In an overseed or reno, you cant do it that year. It is not a big deal if you miss it. Most lawns never apply a Fall PreM. You only see the preventive bags at big box stores in spring.
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g-man said:
Jesse:
Your ph is 6.4. Their lime recommendation is just to get you to 6.6. A ph between 6-6.9 is fine for a lawn and you don't really need to do anything.
Click to expand...
That's the buffer PH, gman- the soil ph is 4.8.
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g-man
Oops! Yes, you need calcium.

https://www.pennington.com/all-products/lawn-garden/fertilizer/soil-ammendment/pennington-fast-acting-lime
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R
One question I have is on the limestone recommendation. Since i have low PH along with low levels of calcium and magnesium I want dolomitic limestone, right? I cannot seem to find that at the big box stores, is there a common brand I should look for? What about Jonathan Green's Mag-i-cal product for raising soil PH, has anyone used that product? Also, I have Azaleas and Rhododendrons in the backyard. Do I just take care not to lime right up to them since they like the acidic soil?
Click to expand...
You're going to need to check the guaranteed analysis label on the bag.
In most states to be classified as calcitic lime, the product must contain less than 5% magnesium carbonate (MgCO3). Conversely, if the product contains > 5% MgCO3, it is classified as dolomitic. Content/purity will vary from product to product depending on the mining source of the lime. Most dolomitic limes will contain around 50% CaCO3 and 40% MgCO3.
When adjusting for Ca and Mg levels in addition to pH, the actual amount of elemental Ca and Mg is important. The guaranteed analysis label will also list those quantities. Most dolomitic limestone will contain a Ca:Mg ratio of about 2:1 and a % bag content of around 20% Ca and 10% Mg. Check the bag. A 40# bag that contains 20% Ca and 10% Mg will contain 8# of Ca and 4# of Mg. So, if you apply 25#/M you will be applying 5# of Ca/M and 2.5# of Mg/M. So, how will that affect your numbers that are currently 918# of Ca per acre and 84# of Mg per acre? Multiply 5# Ca and 2.5# Mg by 43.5 (to convert from per thousand square feet to acres) 5 X 43.5=217.5# and Ca and 2.5X 43.5= 108.75# of Mg. In an ideal world, that should increase the soil values to 1135.5# Ca/acre and 192.75# of Mg/acre. You can adjust the amount of Mg you add by mix and matching adding a calcitic lime (lower Mg content) with dolomitic lime (Are you that crazy?). It's also good to keep Ca: to Mg and Mg to K ratios in the back of your mind so that you don't get way out of whack with those (Really not usually a big concern). Ratios are determined on the basis of Base Saturation percentages. (UCONN suggests anywhere from 5:1 to 4:3 Ca:Mg for Conn soils). The most IMPORTANT thing is to adjust your pH as that has a major influence on plant performance-for you, that means 25# of lime, period. Let pH adjustment be your primary guide, not Ca:Mg or Mg:K ratios.
Lastly, to see where you currently are and where you will be after liming as far as recommended values you can use the chart listed under Modified Morgan in my thread, just divide Ca, Mg and K pound values by two to convert to ppm, then compare.
Sorry for rambling.
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Ridgerunner said:
One question I have is on the limestone recommendation. Since i have low PH along with low levels of calcium and magnesium I want dolomitic limestone, right? I cannot seem to find that at the big box stores, is there a common brand I should look for? What about Jonathan Green's Mag-i-cal product for raising soil PH, has anyone used that product? Also, I have Azaleas and Rhododendrons in the backyard. Do I just take care not to lime right up to them since they like the acidic soil?
Click to expand...
You're going to need to check the guaranteed analysis label on the bag.
In most states to be classified as calcitic lime, the product must contain less than 5% magnesium carbonate (MgCO3). Conversely, if the product contains > 5% MgCO3, it is classified as dolomitic. Content/purity will vary from product to product depending on the mining source of the lime. Most dolomitic limes will contain around 50% CaCO3 and 40% MgCO3.
When adjusting for Ca and Mg levels in addition to pH, the actual amount of elemental Ca and Mg is important. The guaranteed analysis label will also list those quantities. Most dolomitic limestone will contain a Ca:Mg ratio of about 2:1 and a % bag content of around 20% Ca and 10% Mg. Check the bag. A 40# bag that contains 20% Ca and 10% Mg will contain 8# of Ca and 4# of Mg. So, if you apply 25#/M you will be applying 5# of Ca/M and 2.5# of Mg/M. So, how will that affect your numbers that are currently 918# of Ca per acre and 84# of Mg per acre? Multiply 5# Ca and 2.5# Mg by 43.5 (to convert from per thousand square feet to acres) 5 X 43.5=217.5# and Ca and 2.5X 43.5= 108.75# of Mg. In an ideal world, that should increase the soil values to 1135.5# Ca/acre and 192.75# of Mg/acre. You can adjust the amount of Mg you add by mix and matching adding a calcitic lime (lower Mg content) with dolomitic lime (Are you that crazy?). It's also good to keep Ca: to Mg and Mg to K ratios in the back of your mind so that you don't get way out of whack with those (Really not usually a big concern). Ratios are determined on the basis of Base Saturation percentages. (UCONN suggests anywhere from 5:1 to 4:3 Ca:Mg for Conn soils). The most IMPORTANT thing is to adjust your pH as that has a major influence on plant performance-for you, that means 25# of lime, period. Let pH adjustment be your primary guide, not Ca:Mg or Mg:K ratios.
Lastly, to see where you currently are and where you will be after liming as far as recommended values you can use the chart listed under Modified Morgan in my thread, just divide Ca, Mg and K pound values by two to convert to ppm, then compare.
Sorry for rambling.
Click to expand...
I love your detail- you obviously have spent a lot of time studying this topic. I have to admit most of that went over my head but I will keep coming back to your comment to try to digest it. Is there anything wrong with me just applying the 25#/M of dolomite lime since I need both Ca and Mg and the PH boost and see where I am come spring? Another question around lime- I am confused around the fast acting vs the standard lime. When a product says "use this instead of 5 bags of lime" is it just more concentrated? If I use fast acting do I still use 25#/M? I'd like to use a fast acting lime in the spring to get a quick PH boost and help with the fall overseed and then maybe another app of standard "slow acting" lime in the fall for more long term PH maintenance?

I am also curious about a Gypsum application. My soil is compacted in a lot of areas and while I core aerate in the fall, if there is a way to help to soil loosen itself with Gypsum I would be interested in hearing suggestions around that. I was looking at the Jonathan Green Love Your Soil product, but it is quite expensive.

I really appreciate all the help!

Jesse
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First, here's an example of a guaranteed analysis:
https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/www.agrian.com/pdfs/Pro-Pell-It_Pelletized_Dolomite_Label.pdf
Is there anything wrong with me just applying the 25#/M of dolomite lime since I need both Ca and Mg and the PH boost and see where I am come spring?
Click to expand...
IMO, No, However, the reason for all the proceeding verbiage was to enable you to make that determination. ;)
Another question around lime- I am confused around the fast acting vs the standard lime. When a product says "use this instead of 5 bags of lime" is it just more concentrated? If I use fast acting do I still use 25#/M?
Click to expand...
Fast acting limes contain a greater percentage of 100 mesh or smaller particles of lime. The finer that limestone is ground, the more surface area that is available for contact with water and the soil and the faster it will dissolve and interact. Acidity is due to the presence of hydrogen, It's the quantity of carbonate in the lime that neutralizes the hydrogen. No mater what, it's going to take X amount of carbonate to neutralize X amount of hydrogen. Smaller particles of lime will allow more carbonate to be available quicker, however, that will also make the upper level of soil quickly very alkaline which will make many nutrients less available to the plant (example: chlorosis due to insufficient iron). To avoid this, it is recommended that fast acting lime applications be divided and spaced out over time. Studies show that application of the same amount of 60 mesh and 100 mesh lime both take between 1-2 years to change pH the same amount to a depth of 4-6" (that timeline is of course, going to be dependent on soil structure-sand vs clay), but it still takes the same amount of lime (carbonate) to get to the desired pH. On a typical loam or heavier soil, it's 6 of one vs half a dozen of the other as percolation rate is going to be a major factor in pH change throughout the root zone. On a sandy soil, there might be an advantage to using a fast acting lime. That make any sense?
I am also curious about a Gypsum application. My soil is compacted in a lot of areas and while I core aerate in the fall, if there is a way to help to soil loosen itself with Gypsum I would be interested in hearing suggestions around that.
Click to expand...
Good, well aerated "soft" soil is a result of good soil structure. Good soil structure is dependent on a number of factors that create particle aggregates (OM, roots, worms, water, air, etc.). Agronomists have found that high soil Mg levels can contribute to "tight/hard/compacted" soil as Mg disperses soil particles when wet and tightly binds (primarily clay) particles to one another when dry. (Mg threshold that may be of concern: >300ppm, >20% base saturation, and Ca:Mg ratios less than 4:1.) Gypsum is CaSO4. Gypsum will add Ca to the soil without changing soil pH. The additional Ca displaces the Mg and the Mg leaches out and gypsum is sometimes recommended for that purpose. Replacing the Mg with Ca allows the soil particles to be less tightly bound. Calcitic lime also adds Ca, dolomitic lime adds Ca and Mg and both also lower pH. You have a desire to raise Ca and Mg and to lower pH. At the risk of sounding like an a'hole, it's your choice, should you use gypsum in an effort to reduce soil "hardness/compaction"?
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C
Compost is very effective when trying to get the soil healthy, lots of it, I just buy the cheap stuff at the dump, they dont add anything but water - the poop stuff is too "hot" - aerate and top dress about an inch, then do it again and again, takes time. I wouldnt even worry about seeding until the dirt is good. I am kind of an extremist with lots of time and free labor, but I like to top dress with fine wood chips that have composted down a season, 4" turns into nothing, let the soil figure it out, works in forests.

I use tons of gypsum, but not for calcium specifically other than the fact that it is very beneficial to sodic soils, which slc is exactly that. The post above contadicts what I am going to say, but it is ultimately acidic - how can it not be with 20% sulfur, if only temporarily, a chracteristic that you dont need any more of.

Nature is very efficient, emulate the ways of the plants and you will create an environment they like.
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R
The post above contadicts what I am going to say, but it is ultimately acidic - how can it not be with 20% sulfur, if only temporarily, a chracteristic that you dont need any more of.
Click to expand...
That would seem to be the likely case, but it's not, due to the different form in which the Sulfur is delivered. Elemental Sulfur (S), through the intervention of soil microbiology, can acidify soil. The 20% S content in gypsum is in the form of sulfate (SO4) and sulfate will not effectively change soil pH. Kind of like inhaling Oxygen can be beneficial. Inhaling Oxygen in the form of H2O, not so much.
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J
Ridgerunner said:
Fast acting limes contain a greater percentage of 100 mesh or smaller particles of lime. The finer that limestone is ground, the more surface area that is available for contact with water and the soil and the faster it will dissolve and interact. Acidity is due to the presence of hydrogen, It's the quantity of carbonate in the lime that neutralizes the hydrogen. No mater what, it's going to take X amount of carbonate to neutralize X amount of hydrogen. Smaller particles of lime will allow more carbonate to be available quicker, however, that will also make the upper level of soil quickly very alkaline which will make many nutrients less available to the plant (example: chlorosis due to insufficient iron). To avoid this, it is recommended that fast acting lime applications be divided and spaced out over time. Studies show that application of the same amount of 60 mesh and 100 mesh lime both take between 1-2 years to change pH the same amount to a depth of 4-6" (that timeline is of course, going to be dependent on soil structure-sand vs clay), but it still takes the same amount of lime (carbonate) to get to the desired pH. On a typical loam or heavier soil, it's 6 of one vs half a dozen of the other as percolation rate is going to be a major factor in pH change throughout the root zone. On a sandy soil, there might be an advantage to using a fast acting lime. That make any sense?
Click to expand...
This make perfect sense, thank you!

I am confused looking at the Guaranteed Analysis though- why don't the percentages add up to 100%? :oops:

Guaranteed Analysis:
Calcium (Ca).........................................................19.95%
Magnesium (Mg)................................................10.35%
Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) ..........................49.82%
Magnesium Carbonate (MgCO3) .................42.60%
Calcium Carbonate Equivalent (CCE)..........98.27%
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I am confused looking at the Guaranteed Analysis though- why don't the percentages add up to 100%? :oops:

Guaranteed Analysis:
Calcium (Ca).........................................................19.95%
Magnesium (Mg)................................................10.35%
Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) ..........................49.82%
Magnesium Carbonate (MgCO3) .................42.60%
Calcium Carbonate Equivalent (CCE)..........98.27%
Click to expand...
That question may be a little more complicated than it might appear.
Which %s are you expecting to add up to 100%?
With any product, the manufacturer will (and is usually required to list major components) and any % (which doesn't meet a required % threshold) that isn't analyzed is listed usually as "other" or "filler" or some other generic catch-all term. If the analysis does not label the shortage, the consumer is left to assume that the missing % is some substance other than what has been identified.
In the example at hand, the important package contents are CaCO3 (49.82%) and MgCO3 (42.60%) totaling 92.42% of the package or 46.21 lbs of a 50lb bag or lime. All we know is the other 7.58% or 3.79 lbs is something other than CaCO3 or MgCO3. With limestone, that isn't unusual. The limestone rock deposits found in nature are rarely if ever pure. That unknown 7.82% are naturally occurring impurities and contaminates. Even snow isn't "as pure as the driven snow" as there is always a piece of dirt at the center of every ice crystal/snow flake.
The CCE is a rating system based on a theoretically 100% pure CaCO3 limestone. In this case, the lime content of the 50# bag is 98.27% as potent at neutralizing acidity as a 50# bag containing 100% pure calcium carbonate.
So why does the % of CaCO3 (49.82%) and MgCO3 (42.60%) totaling 92.42% not equal the CCE of 98.27???
Because a MgCO3 molecule weighs less than a molecule of CaCO3, but still has the some neutralizing effect (CO3) as the CaCO3 molecule. Therefor, as one pound of MgCO3 will contain more CO3 molecules than one pound of CaCO3, one pound of MgCO3 will have a greater CCE value than one pound of CaCO3. Hence, due to the MgCO3 content, that bag has a CCE of 98.27% rather than a CCE of 92.42%.
The % Ca and Mg listed are just based on molecular weight calculations.
TMI?
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J
I am still missing something- I probably should have paid better better attention in middle school chemistry class instead of passing notes to girls. :|

The 20% calcium must make up a portion of the CaCO3 percentage?
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R
Yes
Atomic weight (rounded off, so our final calculations are going to be off by a couple of hundredths):
Ca = 40
C = 12
O = 16
Therefore: CaCO3 = 40 + 12 + 16 + 16 + 16 or 100
%Ca (by weight) in CaCO3 = 40/100 = .40 or 40% of CaCO3 is Ca by weight.
Say you have a 50# bag containing 49.8% CaCO3
49.8% of 50# bag = 24.9# of CaCO3
That 24.9# of CaCO3 is 40% Ca
40% of 24.9 = 9.96# of Ca in that 50# bag
9.964# of Ca/50# bag = 19.92% (19.92% of the 50# bag is Ca by weight.)
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J
So trying to think through my order of operations for next spring- any comments or suggestions

-Dolomite Lime Early Spring (fast acting) 12#/M
-Dimension app when the forsythia blooms 13-0-5
-Kill off any remaining clover and broadleaf weeds
-Milo app in May and July
-Figure out an above ground irrigation system- I like Ryan Knorr's above ground set up
Hunter Pro Spray Base: http://amzn.to/2nkF9uM
MP3000 Sprinkler Head (22-30ft): http://amzn.to/2mNHIBy
MP2000 Sprinkler Head (13-21ft): http://amzn.to/2nHFloW
MP1000 Sprinkler Head (8-15ft): http://amzn.to/2nkIZUy
½" Sprinkler Riser: http://amzn.to/2nPRzsl
½" Sprinkler Spike: http://amzn.to/2nkCXmP (these things are really $20 a piece?!)

Here is a video where he shows it- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEN0d6efQJs

-Level off the old garden (no idea how much topsoil I will need, the old garden was maybe 10-20' with some ruts maybe 8 inches lower than the surrounding area- I'll try to snap a few pics)
-Should I plan on leveling this area and leaving it bare for a few weeks to settle nicely before seeding in the fall? I will tamp it as best I can, but I really want to make sure it doesn't settle after seeding. Spot treatments of roundup for any weeds here a few days before l seed?
-Maybe roundup the quackgrass area- undecided here- maybe next year.. :|
-Labor day aerate, overseed TTTF (Thor and a few other TTTF), milo, starter fert, peat for the very thin areas and garden section
-water, water, water
-another round of regular dolomite limestone (not fast acting) 12#/M in early Oct
-Fall Urea apps when growth slows
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I'll let the more experienced folks respond to your plan, but in regards to the sprinkler spike you can definitely find them cheaper than $20.
This place sells them for $1.55 each https://goo.gl/G2vBxZ (I have no idea what shipping costs). I went to Walmart and found some spiked impact sprinklers for $2.50 and just took the impact part off and used the spike.
I have a few spikes that flare out at the top like this https://goo.gl/rCoQmn, and I prefer them over the regular spike. The stay in place better because of the flared out top and don't twist around over time like some of my regular spikes do.
Also, I bough my risers for under $1 at my local Home Depot. I'm sure you can find them a lot cheaper locally than the $5 amazon is charging.
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J
Thanks for the spike and riser recommendations, Mike!

One dimension app in late march/April if I am overseeding in late August? I should be good by then, right?
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